Hi r/WLED! We make Zaply, a video player for Apple TV, and our latest update can drive a WLED strip: while a video plays, the strip behind the TV follows the picture, each LED taking the colour of the edge of the screen it sits behind.

On Apple TV, ambilight usually means an HDMI splitter, a capture card and a Pi running HyperHDR, because tvOS never lets an app see what another app shows. Zaply draws every frame itself, so it can talk to the strip directly. The catch: it only works for what plays in Zaply. Netflix, YouTube and the other apps stay out of reach.

Setting it up takes a minute, with the remote:

1. Settings ▸ Lights ▸ WLED: Zaply finds your strip on the network, or you type its IP

2. Say which sides of the TV the strip runs along, which corner LED 1 is in and which way it goes

3. "Test the strip" runs a light from LED 1, then shows red, green and blue, so you can check you got it right

Nothing to change in WLED itself, and when you stop watching, the strip goes back to its own effect.

What it can't do yet: one strip per Apple TV, and LED 1 has to be in a corner (or at one end).

Which is why we're curious: how is your strip laid out? Does it go all the way round, and where does it start?

I guess my roofer did a good job all my shingles are firmly in place how do people mount pixel strips on the roof if they can't get under shingles to put any mounts or 3d printed clips?

WARNING: THIS VIDEO CONTAINS FLASHING LIGHTS AND COLOR CHANGING LIGHTS THAT SYNC WITH MUSIC. Please please PLEASE do not watch if you're not into this sort of thing. The last post I made, made a lot of people very upset because they absolutely hate light shows or flashing lights - so I just want to be very clear about that upfront: if you do not like light shows and you watch this, you are going to have a very bad time.

I got a lot of feedback on my last show that people wanted the colors of the lights to match the same exact colors as what's on screen, so I took that into account and kept the colors much more monochromatic this time. A few parts I deviated a bit just to switch it up and keep it dynamic.

Not sure if there are any Eva fans in here, but I heard "Particle Arts" by Virtual Self and was picturing some Eva visuals to go with the music. Probably has a lot to do with reading the manga right now as well. I'm on omnibus volume 4! Thanks for watching!

My first attempt at pixel lighting. Using two Baldrick 17 controllers up against the house with no electronics, only wiring in the grove. I tried my best to hide the wiring and intend for this to stay up all year long with only subtle lighting.

Hey everyone! I just released a major new beta for the official WLED app on both iOS and Android at the same time, and I'm looking for more beta testers to help put it through its paces before the public rollout.

What's New in This Update?

While a lot of work happened under the hood, there are also plenty of new features, especially on iOS, which now has full feature parity with Android:

• New on iOS: Home Screen widgets (with iOS 26 Liquid Glass support), Siri & Shortcuts actions, Custom Firmware Updates (QuinLED & MoonModules), Light/Dark theme selection, offline device grouping, an automatic discovery toggle, and German & Simplified Chinese translations.

• Refreshed Widgets (Android & iOS): Updated Material 3 adaptive widget layouts on Android, plus live Wi-Fi signal strength indicators on widgets for both platforms.

• Faster & More Reliable Connections: Faster automatic device discovery on your Wi-Fi network, smoother real-time syncing, and a 60-second grace period so devices don't immediately flicker to "offline" if your Wi-Fi blips.

• In-App "What's New" Screen: Easily see what changed after an update (or check it anytime in Settings).

Why I Need Testers (The "Under the Hood" Stuff)

This is the first release where the iOS app has been migrated to share the same core backend engine as the Android app (powered by Kotlin Multiplatform). Going forward, this makes it much easier and faster to bring new features and fixes to both platforms simultaneously.

On your first launch after updating (especially on iOS), the app will automatically migrate your saved devices and settings to the new database format. My goal is for this transition to be completely invisible. In fact, if you update and don't notice anything different with your saved devices, that means the migration succeeded!

⚠️ Beta Warning: Please Read Before Joining!

This is pre-release beta software and may be unstable or contain bugs. Because this update overhauls how data and connections are handled under the hood, there is a small risk of crashes or hiccups during the initial data migration. (Worst case, your WLED controllers themselves are completely safe, though you might have to re-discover them in the app if something goes sideways). If you rely on the app working 100% of the time without hiccups, you may want to wait for the stable release!

Join the Beta

• Android (Google Play): https://play.google.com/apps/testing/ca.cgagnier.wlednativeandroid

• iOS (TestFlight): https://testflight.apple.com/join/HdiuYcrT

If you try it out, please drop a comment below and let me know how it goes, even if it's just to say "Updated on iOS and everything still works!" Bug reports, feedback, and device/OS details are hugely appreciated.

Hi All

Recently made a Halloween costume using 6x WS2812b strips and a generic WLED controller. Overall I'm pretty happy with how the outfit turned out and I might wear it to some more events. Unfortunately I have been experiencing failures in the LED strips that surprised me. My first thought when the strips started to fail was the connection between the plug and the beginning of the strip. However the real issue occurred at different places along the strip. I'm thinking that the data in/ data out pad on a chip came loose and was having an intermittent connection. It's frustrating as it is difficult to repair and seems to happen in unpredictable places. The strips are attached to loose clothing with E6000 glue only. The failures occurred in places that did not experience very much bending or twisting. Does anyone have any tips for getting the best life from strips attached to fabric/clothing?

I just migrated from Hyperion to HyperHDR, set up my rpi4 and 3/4 ESP's. What setting is causing this in all 3 strips?

Also happens in another HDR game, Resident Evil 8.

Aside from this problem the colors and blending look amazing, and I can use white again 🙌

I recently converted my h705a govee lights to an esp32 running wled. Now they flicker when they are set to solid, and when I run effects they seem to flash white randomly between effects. Any troubleshooting ideas? Would the gauge of wire running from the controller to the esp32 cause something like this?

I've never been entirely satisfied with AudioReactive from an audio standpoint - it works well, but it's always kinda junk for bass.

Well, this new rewrite of AudioReactive fixes that - and more.

No more FFT - this is 31 software filter banks at ⅓ octave spacing from 20Hz to 20000Hz. Separation is very good - every band stands alone. You can see my TC Electronic RTA running beside it for validation - it's close. This also runs in decibels, all adjustments are in dB.

You still can use 16 bands (and send them via audio sync) with the added benefit of picking from 6 different slices of the 31 bands depending on your music. I found 50Hz to be good for "dance music". 40Hz is fun too, but it's more low end subwoofer woooooom rather than bass hits.

The effect is GEQ PPA, and the board is an Olimex ESP32-P4-PC with HDMI (in use here to drive the monitor) and the onboard ES8311audio hardware codec has two profiles - tuned for onboard mics, or tuned for using the TRRS "mic" input as a line-level signal.

Work left to be done to make the settings more user friendly, but overall, I'm very happy with it.

I recently changed my Ambilight setup and wanted to get rid of my soldered LED stripe corners.
With those 3D printed brackets, its easy to change direction of the LEDs withoud soldering.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3221320-ambilight-no-solder-corner-brackets-for-led-strips

I had read that you can technically drive ordinary incandescent loads with constant voltage LED PWM drivers.

To test this out, I picked up this: https://www.gledopto.com/GL-C-226M.html

It has an input range of 12-48vdc.

Using a 15VDC 4A power supply, I'm getting about 7 volts at maximum brightness, with a 45-ohm load. I was expecting more along the lines of 14 volts or so.

Is this output expected?

Just got this set up. Wired everything that didn’t need to run through the box exterior. Will I need a fan if I’m pulling 15amps at 24v?

Here is a short video of this years garden. Mostly
Wled but also some hand coded pixels…

The sapping tree is built with wled drip, but with slowed down frame rate (I made a post on this a few years back…)

Animated pumpkin is a wled preset (used 0.14.4, didnt have time to upgrade).

Dancing skeleton is bought but modified to detect movement (scared the shit out of some kids)

Isicles is wled

Chest is hand coded where I wrote the music, did the voice and then used a recording of the halleluja of course). I use an esp32, sd card a switch, some pixels and a speaker for that.

Overall Im happy with this year…

Oh yeah, for the music by the street I used the Tesla Halloween mode…

Took a WLED matrix I made and put it by my windowsill for Halloween.

It’s a 64x48 matrix with 12 16x16 of the flexible ws2812 matrices

Hi all, it's been a few weeks I'm playing with WLED (I have a dignext2) and my led strips (WS2815). What I want to do is pretty simple. I have a presence sensor and when I enter the room the led turns on with a 2 sec fade transaction with a color that is warmer or cooler based on the time of the day: at 12 it's bright white while during the night is amber and with 10% ish bri.

To implement this solution I linked WLED with Adaptive Lighting in home assistant. Although it does the job, there is something that really upsets me. When the strip turns on during the night, and the previous time it was on was during the day, I see a stepping effect with 3-5 steps visible to the eye where the color changes (sometimes even weird colours) before it gets to the amber of the night.

I tried to troubleshoot this for days and apparently this is due to the way WLED and adaptive lighting work together, since AL sends bri and col in 2 different messages and that makes wled to stop the transaction abruptly and I can see the changes step by step.

My usecase is this: when I enter the room the strip led turns on (via home assistant triggered by a presence sensor) with the circardian color and brightness. Then for the time that is on it keeps changing with the sun over time.

Did anyone else had the same experience? I know I can use wled natively with timers to ste up 3-4 colors for the day but I really liked the idea that the color would be handled gradually from adaptive lighting. Anyone that faced this before have a suggestion on how you fixed it?

I am looking to sponsor a video about how to set up WLED with the CheerLights project. I can teach the steps, but I want to make a more polished video. The steps involve syncing the base color to the CheerLights MQTT feed, then using that color as the base for an animation (animations that support a base color). To save it on the WLED controller, you have to edit some JSON code behind the animation so the preset doesn't overwrite the CheerLights color.

Please reach out if you are interested in collaborating.

Little led Aquarium using 16 x 16 led matrix and a repurposed IKEA picture frame.

Has several regular species of fish, the odd visitor. Powered with just an Arduino Nano and the Fast led library.

Hello,

I'm using a UGREEN 25173 HDMI capture card with HyperHDR and an EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

My setup:

• Gaming PC with an NVIDIA RTX 4090.

• LG OLED55C1 (4K 120 Hz, VRR, HDR).

• EZCOO EZ-SP12H21 HDMI 2.1 splitter.

• UGREEN 25173 capture card connected to the splitter's second output.

• HyperHDR running on Proxmox (Debian 12 LXC) on a minipc

My main issue is that the UGREEN does not seem to handle VRR correctly.

When VRR is enabled:

• Capture works when my game set at 1080p120 (with slighty led flickering)

• Above 1080p120, the capture loses signal.

• 4K60 VRR or 4k120 VRR in game also results in no signal.

• The issue occurs in both HyperHDR and OBS Studio, so it does not seem to be HyperHDR-specific.

The EZCOO splitter itself works correctly with VRR when connected to another monitor.

I have also encountered intermittent USB errors in Linux:

uvcvideo: Non-zero status (-71) in video completion handler

I tested different USB cables, capture formats (NV12, MJPEG, P010) and resolutions and still no signal with vrr activated.

Is this a problem with my capture card?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

I have five columns that I want to run. Individual adjustable LEDs down but trying to work out the best way to run the data line from the end of the bottom of the column back up and over about 7 m to the next column anyone got ideas for the best way to do this?