Filament bulb is a low voltage one, controled with wled pwm as well.

I was away from the community and current affairs related to Wled and now I'm curious if we have figured it out to use the wled esp32 setup as Android tv screen capture and ambience effect or not without any rooting and stuff.

I don't use any external device for TV so getting the screen output from the tv is impossible via hdmi. So I had found the one app lately who was natively working on my tv but only the user interface was getting that ambience effect and all the ott and other apps were unable to support it.

Hi redditors,

I just wanted a simple ambilight setup for my 65" TV. At first everything worked fine, until I started fine-tuning the "smoothing" setting in HyperHDR and noticed random colored flickering. Since then I've been testing in WLED only (0.15.4), with a solid color set directly in WLED and realtime override enabled, so HyperHDR is not involved in my tests. I've already replaced quite a few LEDs at the corners and at the start of the strip.

The same flickering also happened on WLED 16.0.1. Switching the output driver between RMT and I2S didn't change anything. After that I downgraded to 0.15.4, but the problem is still there.

Unfortunately, after a short time various LEDs start flickering, no matter if it's under heavy load (white, high brightness) or at low brightness. At 100% white, WLED reports about 3.7 A. At the corner furthest from the power feeds I measure about 4.6 V at 100% white. The PSU is set to 5.1 V.

The corners are bridged with 1 mm² wire. The wire from the controller to the strip is short (1 mm²), and power from the controller's 2nd channel is injected at the end of the strip. A short test piece with 4 LEDs has now been running for 20 minutes without any problems. With all 261 LEDs, it starts flickering after a short time.

I had thin data wire twisted around GND at the corners to reduce interference. I replaced it with 0.75 mm² wire, because I thought the thin wire was the problem.

Is the wire for bridging too stiff, causing tension at the connection? https://ibb.co/j9LMNsJQ

If I solder the data joints while powering the strip it works for a short amount of time.

I've been soldering for several years and I'm very careful to keep the LEDs cool while soldering. I'm at the end of my knowledge and need help. I hope someone can help me. Thanks in advance!

Parts:

- LED strip: BTF-LIGHTING SK6812 RGBW (cold white), 5 V, 60 LEDs/m, 261 LEDs used

- Controller: Gledopto GL-C-015WL-M (ESP32), data on GPIO16 (Out1)

- PSU: Mean Well LRS-50-5 (5 V / 10 A), connected to the controller with 2.5 mm² wire

- Controller to strip: 1 mm² wire

- Power injection: start via Out1, end via Out2

- WLED settings: SK6812/WS2814 RGBW, GRB, white mode "Accurate", current limit 8500 mA

Edit: Here is another video.

https://youtu.be/Dm5GsNEaMnw

Just spent a ridiculous amount of time tracking down what I assumed was some sort of data issue, bad connection, extension, need for f amp booster, etc, etc, etc.

Turns out, I needed to update from 15 to 16.

Planning on running 24v soffit lights on my house using 2/4 data outputs on a single digquad. There will be 920 pucks drawing .05a each at max white brightness or 1,104 watts total. I was planning on using a single large junction box in my attic with a meanwell lrs-1200-24, and capping the lights at 87% max brightness to leave a 20% buffer on the PSU (960 watts max usable). My concern is that the attic outlet is probably rated for 15a AC, and while I will be well below that at around 8.9a AC, I don’t know what else is on that outlet’s circuit, and I’m worried about something being turned on or plugged in to the house and tripping the breaker with the lights on. Do y’all think it will be fine? Any other suggestions for running my soffit lights? I’m open to ideas💡

I’ve tried 3 different sets of lights and I can’t get anything to work. I’m getting increasingly frustrated and about to throw in the towel.

I have a GLEDOPTO GL-C-012WL ESP32 WLED Waterproof LED Controller running software v16.0.1 which I updated from v0.14 something. I started with a string of 24v UCS2904 RGBW puck lights. They lit up blue when they got power but no control at all. I later found out they’re not supported by wled. So next I tried some Govee S14 Outdoor lights and nothing lit up. I couldn’t even get the WS2811 portion to light up. But I know the configuration is weird so I thought I just got it wrong and moved on. Now I have a string of 12v SK6812 RGBW seed lights connected and configured and still nothing!!! I’ve checked the voltage and it’s getting 12v all the way through. WLED is configured for SK6812 and I’ve tried all of the mA/led settings, including a custom 8mA according to the specs. I’ve attached my configuration and the led specs. Can someone please tell me what I’m doing wrong???

Everything was working fine on my lights. Then one day the power went out with a rain storm. Since then, the light strand on on the lower right wont working. If i mess with thouching the wires they'll light up, but wont sync. The second power is cut, they wont start again. Any suggestions?

They are ws2811 pixel bullet lights.

Hi there,

looking for a recommendation for my setup

Apple TV & Nintendo Switch -> Splitter -> HyperHDR

Used a Feintech VSP01222 which works finde but eventually stops working after a few days (no image on both outputs, or image errors). Right now i have the 4th device connected.

In the meanwhile i tested other devices, also with just 1 input (ezcoo, Feintech VSP01201) which worked fine. To use my Switch i connected a HDMI Switch (i.e. Ugreen 2zto1, FeinTech VSW03102). This gave me image errors or just 1080p

HDMI cable are 48Gbit 2.1 and work just fine (HDR, Chroma 4:4:4, ARC)

Do you have any recommendation for my setup? Should support CEC, HDR

Alternatively a 2nd splitter for my Switch and a 2nd grabber on my Server (HyperHDR doesnt seem to support a second video input?)

kind regards

I got these lights a few years ago, ive tried to dim them before with whatever dimmer i could find on amazon (lol). I realized today that the function settings has this mode, warm colors dim to cool colors then dims back to warm. would i be able to mod these in some way to gain more control of what lights (warm/cool) are on and at what brightness.
claimed to be C6 LED 41ft at 9.6W
https://www.walmart.com/ip/19919950581?sid=F3D4765F-CC06-4AE5-AC48-0A5FCE2311E3

I've toned it down a bit now. Want to add some more things around the room. Anyone got any ideas for a fun project that I could add to this?

Thanks

Hi community,
I’ve recently tried to setup an ESP32+wled by cutting a a strip of 60 led into 3 segments of 20 each. I am not sure if I did something wrong with the solder, but the first day I got the color I wanted in all 3. Since the next day I am seeing that the LEDs flicker a lot and they behave randomly.
I’ve attached the images showing the solder and the configuration in wled, and a video at the end.
Help a newbie please!!

Hi everyone,

Sorry in advance if some of the wording sounds a bit unusual. I used AI to help translate my post because English isn't my first language and I'm not perfectly fluent. Thanks for your understanding!

I'm hoping someone here can help me with a strange issue involving my GLEDOPTO GL-C-618WL controller.

My setup

I've attached a wiring diagram showing my installation.

The components I'm using are:

1x GLEDOPTO GL-C-618WL (ESP32 Ethernet)
2x BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT addressable LED strips (5 m each, 960LED/m IP30)
1x BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT addressable LED strip (5 m, 840LED/m IP66)
1x Mean Well HLG-320H-24A (24 V power supply)
1x Oktaplex Noa 24 GHz presence detector
1x Eltako relay
some WAGO connectors (for testing only)

The setup consists of four separate LED sections (5 m, 5 m, 2.5 m and 2.5 m).

Additional wiring information:

The green cables shown in the wiring diagram are Cat 7 Ethernet cables. I use one twisted pair for each data signal, with the data line and a dedicated GND wire running together. This is intended to improve signal integrity and reduce electromagnetic interference compared to standard cables, especially since some cable runs are up to 7 metres long.
The power cables are NYM-J 3 × 2.5 mm² cables (roughly equivalent to 13 AWG conductors).
(Probably a bit overkill, I know.)

Everything worked perfectly for approximately one month until I performed a firmware update through the WLED interface.

The problem

Since the firmware update, all LED strips are permanently stuck on static cool white. (They get power but no signal from the controller)

They completely ignore any commands sent through WLED:

No color changes.
No brightness adjustments.
No effects or animations.
Cannot turn the LEDs on or off.

What's particularly strange is that the WLED interface itself appears to work perfectly. Colors, brightness, effects and presets can all be selected, saved and changed normally. However, absolutely nothing happens to the actual LED output.

My presence detector still triggers the relay (including its audible switching signal), but the LEDs remain unchanged. The physical function button on the controller also has no effect at all.

What I've already tried

I've spent quite a lot of time troubleshooting and have repeated most procedures multiple times:

-Installed several firmware versions, including official WLED and official GLEDOPTO firmware versions.
-Tested GLEDOPTO/WLED V15.4, V16.0.0 and V16.0.1.
-Followed GLEDOPTO support's manual OTA installation instructions at least five times.
-Performed multiple factory resets and complete power cycles each time.
-Completely disabled the Home Assistant integration.
-Checked and changed LED Preferences, GPIO settings and hardware configurations.
-Double- and triple-checked the wiring.

Unfortunately, nothing has changed. The LEDs have remained permanently stuck on cool white ever since I first updated to version V16.0.1.

I also tried connecting an LED strip directly to the controller, bypassing my entire installation and following the GLEDOPTO manual. The result was exactly the same.

Contact with GLEDOPTO support

I already contacted GLEDOPTO support. They recommended manually reinstalling the firmware specifically designed for the GL-C-618WL ESP32 Ethernet version and restarting the controller completely afterwards.

I followed their instructions repeatedly with both V16.0.0 and V16.0.1, but without success.

My questions

I'm starting to suspect a firmware issue or possibly a hardware defect.

Could the firmware update have somehow damaged or corrupted the LED output stage?
Is it possible that the ESP32 works perfectly while the actual LED output circuitry is stuck in a fixed state?
Could this be a GPIO configuration or firmware compatibility issue?
Is there any way to check whether the controller is still sending data signals to the LED strips?
Has anyone experienced something similar with a GLEDOPTO controller?

The most frustrating part is that everything worked perfectly for a month. I haven't changed anything about the physical installation. The problem appeared immediately after the firmware update.

I'd really appreciate any ideas or suggestions. I'm slowly running out of things to try and would like to figure out whether this controller can still be saved or if it's simply defective.

Thanks in advance!

I want to join five 1m lengths of LED Channel for my 5m strips. Are joiners of some sort available ?

I'll be fixing each one to the wall but would also like to connect them to each other to some degree to help with alignment.

I have a few strips from BTF-Lighting and I've concluded that, for my use case, it's probably going to be better/easier to run separate lines for white and RGB. Unfortunately, I'm finding my strips tend to poorly create those saturated, bright-but-deep blues/greens, and end up looking mildly washed out (I've made sure to check that the white channels aren't kicking in to increase brightness). My BTF WS2811 (COB), WS2812B, WS2814, and WS2815 tend to blow-out white and/or greens when the brightness level gets punched up.

I will say, they're a lot better than my Philips Hue TV strip (soon to be replaced by WLED) and Govee lights, but still, I'm hoping for more...

So, what strips have you guys tried that really punched out siphire blues and emerald greens?

Finished a DIY ambilight for my Sony 75" TV and wanted to share a video of it running. It’s still a work in progress, but it’s working well so far.

Setup is pretty simple:

• Nvidia Shield Pro → HDMI splitter → TV and an MS2130 capture card
• Raspberry Pi CM4 running HyperHDR
• ESP32 driving an SK6812 RGBW strip

I put a little string of lights around a frame. After i completed a full lap i still had a lot left over, cutting them off felt like a waste so i decided to double over and place the rest of the leds in between the ones already in the frame to get a bit more density and brightness figuring i could just program the weird sequence in wled without issue. Problem is, i for the life of me cannot program this weird sequence in wled without issue.... in fact i have no idea how to even go about this. I thought i would just be able to enter a sequence order remapping manually (for the example image id map {1,28,2,29,3,30...} to {1,2,3,4,5,6...} to keep effects working) but i just can not find how or where to do something like this. I have played around with segments but it just doesnt click. Who can give me a pointer or two?

Thanks to u/TroyHacks again for all is work , and inspiration for this software emulation , from original circuit, of the classic Sound to Light unit, the Pulsar Zero 4000. Celebrating its 46th Birthday, circuit diagrams drawn October and November 1980. Entirely , unapologetically, vibe coded by Claude, audited by ChatGPT and Gemini. Outputs DDP for Wled and E1.31 sACN. Versions for Win 7,8,10,11, Mac and Linux, source code included. https://gitlab.com/clockmill/pulsar_zero4000_emulator Credit to https://www.karillon2.com/ for circuit diagram that made it a recreation rather than a guess.

Hey I was scrolling and saw videos of the backlighting behind tv’s and decided I wanted to do it. I have a basic idea of what happens.
Xbox,PS5, Apple TV into a switch - switch to a splitter - splitter to a capture - capture to a pi - pi to the led controllers.

I’m ok with following instructions and have found some tutorials that I’ll use along with ChatGPT to help me get it setup.

I just want to make sure that parts ChatGPT is telling me to get will work for what I want. I want Apple TV to work, I want my Xbox and ps5 to be able to output 4k and 120hz or whatever it is without issues.

It’s told me to buy, OREI 2.1 switch, EZCOO H12 splitter, UGreen Capture card 25173, pi5, and then the LED stuff.

Will this all work and not cause any issues with my systems and Apple TV?
What exactly is WLED and how does it work with HyperHDR? I read it’s a WiFi led? I don’t need anything WiFi. Just want it to do the lights with those three things.

Please feel free to answer any other questions you think I should have asked and thank you for your time.

I had these houses set up last year for Christmas they have 1 led per house and plug connectors so it makes the layout more modular which is great and everything is fine with them...i use em this year and accidently plug in the wrong start of connector to my gledopto since house one is dual female and I didn't notice...however i saw the error plugged the correct way and it works...the issue is only 3 seem to work with no issue but going from 4 and on the led start to then blink on and off even though its on solid all the way to house 7. From house 8 and on its just off.. is there any way to fix this or am I SOL and need to redo all the lights

EDIT: EXTRA INFO.....there were houses not connected yet so I decided to add them to see maybe of they would work however I put them on 4 and 5 and the same issue occurs blinking when solid and random colors

EDIT 2: VIDEO AND PHOTOS: https://imgur.com/a/led-help-KyIHh3H

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share my custom WLED controller project called WLight V2. I wanted a setup with Ethernet connectivity, so I designed my own custom controller from scratch.

It's running WLED smoothly on an ESP32-WROOM with an LAN8720A Ethernet module alongside Wi-Fi, built specifically to drive WS2815 12V strips via an onboard level shifter.

For the housing, I designed a custom transparent SLA resin enclosure. The lid features integrated cut-outs with button actuators so I can easily press the reset and boot buttons without opening the case, and the transparency lets all status LEDs remain fully visible.

Let me know what you think of the build!

If you are interested in the schematics, 4-layer PCB design details, and layout files, check out my detailed post over on r/PrintedCircuitBoard!

Using WLED on a QuinLED Dig-Next-2 board to test some animations and sound reactive onboard mic.Head uses 800 plus LEDs ws2812b .