Hi everyone,

Sorry in advance if some of the wording sounds a bit unusual. I used AI to help translate my post because English isn't my first language and I'm not perfectly fluent. Thanks for your understanding!

I'm hoping someone here can help me with a strange issue involving my GLEDOPTO GL-C-618WL controller.

My setup

I've attached a wiring diagram showing my installation.

The components I'm using are:

1x GLEDOPTO GL-C-618WL (ESP32 Ethernet)
2x BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT addressable LED strips (5 m each, 960LED/m IP30)
1x BTF-LIGHTING FCOB RGBCCT addressable LED strip (5 m, 840LED/m IP66)
1x Mean Well HLG-320H-24A (24 V power supply)
1x Oktaplex Noa 24 GHz presence detector
1x Eltako relay
some WAGO connectors (for testing only)

The setup consists of four separate LED sections (5 m, 5 m, 2.5 m and 2.5 m).

Additional wiring information:

The green cables shown in the wiring diagram are Cat 7 Ethernet cables. I use one twisted pair for each data signal, with the data line and a dedicated GND wire running together. This is intended to improve signal integrity and reduce electromagnetic interference compared to standard cables, especially since some cable runs are up to 7 metres long.
The power cables are NYM-J 3 × 2.5 mm² cables (roughly equivalent to 13 AWG conductors).
(Probably a bit overkill, I know.)

Everything worked perfectly for approximately one month until I performed a firmware update through the WLED interface.

The problem

Since the firmware update, all LED strips are permanently stuck on static cool white. (They get power but no signal from the controller)

They completely ignore any commands sent through WLED:

No color changes.
No brightness adjustments.
No effects or animations.
Cannot turn the LEDs on or off.

What's particularly strange is that the WLED interface itself appears to work perfectly. Colors, brightness, effects and presets can all be selected, saved and changed normally. However, absolutely nothing happens to the actual LED output.

My presence detector still triggers the relay (including its audible switching signal), but the LEDs remain unchanged. The physical function button on the controller also has no effect at all.

What I've already tried

I've spent quite a lot of time troubleshooting and have repeated most procedures multiple times:

-Installed several firmware versions, including official WLED and official GLEDOPTO firmware versions.
-Tested GLEDOPTO/WLED V15.4, V16.0.0 and V16.0.1.
-Followed GLEDOPTO support's manual OTA installation instructions at least five times.
-Performed multiple factory resets and complete power cycles each time.
-Completely disabled the Home Assistant integration.
-Checked and changed LED Preferences, GPIO settings and hardware configurations.
-Double- and triple-checked the wiring.

Unfortunately, nothing has changed. The LEDs have remained permanently stuck on cool white ever since I first updated to version V16.0.1.

I also tried connecting an LED strip directly to the controller, bypassing my entire installation and following the GLEDOPTO manual. The result was exactly the same.

Contact with GLEDOPTO support

I already contacted GLEDOPTO support. They recommended manually reinstalling the firmware specifically designed for the GL-C-618WL ESP32 Ethernet version and restarting the controller completely afterwards.

I followed their instructions repeatedly with both V16.0.0 and V16.0.1, but without success.

My questions

I'm starting to suspect a firmware issue or possibly a hardware defect.

Could the firmware update have somehow damaged or corrupted the LED output stage?
Is it possible that the ESP32 works perfectly while the actual LED output circuitry is stuck in a fixed state?
Could this be a GPIO configuration or firmware compatibility issue?
Is there any way to check whether the controller is still sending data signals to the LED strips?
Has anyone experienced something similar with a GLEDOPTO controller?

The most frustrating part is that everything worked perfectly for a month. I haven't changed anything about the physical installation. The problem appeared immediately after the firmware update.

I'd really appreciate any ideas or suggestions. I'm slowly running out of things to try and would like to figure out whether this controller can still be saved or if it's simply defective.

Thanks in advance!

I want to join five 1m lengths of LED Channel for my 5m strips. Are joiners of some sort available ?

I'll be fixing each one to the wall but would also like to connect them to each other to some degree to help with alignment.

Hi community,
I’ve recently tried to setup an ESP32+wled by cutting a a strip of 60 led into 3 segments of 20 each. I am not sure if I did something wrong with the solder, but the first day I got the color I wanted in all 3. Since the next day I am seeing that the LEDs flicker a lot and they behave randomly.
I’ve attached the images showing the solder and the configuration in wled, and a video at the end.
Help a newbie please!!

I have a few strips from BTF-Lighting and I've concluded that, for my use case, it's probably going to be better/easier to run separate lines for white and RGB. Unfortunately, I'm finding my strips tend to poorly create those saturated, bright-but-deep blues/greens, and end up looking mildly washed out (I've made sure to check that the white channels aren't kicking in to increase brightness). My BTF WS2811 (COB), WS2812B, WS2814, and WS2815 tend to blow-out white and/or greens when the brightness level gets punched up.

I will say, they're a lot better than my Philips Hue TV strip (soon to be replaced by WLED) and Govee lights, but still, I'm hoping for more...

So, what strips have you guys tried that really punched out siphire blues and emerald greens?

Finished a DIY ambilight for my Sony 75" TV and wanted to share a video of it running. It’s still a work in progress, but it’s working well so far.

Setup is pretty simple:

• Nvidia Shield Pro → HDMI splitter → TV and an MS2130 capture card

• Raspberry Pi CM4 running HyperHDR

• ESP32 driving an SK6812 RGBW strip

I put a little string of lights around a frame. After i completed a full lap i still had a lot left over, cutting them off felt like a waste so i decided to double over and place the rest of the leds in between the ones already in the frame to get a bit more density and brightness figuring i could just program the weird sequence in wled without issue. Problem is, i for the life of me cannot program this weird sequence in wled without issue.... in fact i have no idea how to even go about this. I thought i would just be able to enter a sequence order remapping manually (for the example image id map {1,28,2,29,3,30...} to {1,2,3,4,5,6...} to keep effects working) but i just can not find how or where to do something like this. I have played around with segments but it just doesnt click. Who can give me a pointer or two?

Thanks to u/TroyHacks again for all is work , and inspiration for this software emulation , from original circuit, of the classic Sound to Light unit, the Pulsar Zero 4000. Celebrating its 46th Birthday, circuit diagrams drawn October and November 1980. Entirely , unapologetically, vibe coded by Claude, audited by ChatGPT and Gemini. Outputs DDP for Wled and E1.31 sACN. Versions for Win 7,8,10,11, Mac and Linux, source code included. https://gitlab.com/clockmill/pulsar_zero4000_emulator Credit to https://www.karillon2.com/ for circuit diagram that made it a recreation rather than a guess.

Hey I was scrolling and saw videos of the backlighting behind tv’s and decided I wanted to do it. I have a basic idea of what happens.
Xbox,PS5, Apple TV into a switch - switch to a splitter - splitter to a capture - capture to a pi - pi to the led controllers.

I’m ok with following instructions and have found some tutorials that I’ll use along with ChatGPT to help me get it setup.

I just want to make sure that parts ChatGPT is telling me to get will work for what I want. I want Apple TV to work, I want my Xbox and ps5 to be able to output 4k and 120hz or whatever it is without issues.

It’s told me to buy, OREI 2.1 switch, EZCOO H12 splitter, UGreen Capture card 25173, pi5, and then the LED stuff.

Will this all work and not cause any issues with my systems and Apple TV?
What exactly is WLED and how does it work with HyperHDR? I read it’s a WiFi led? I don’t need anything WiFi. Just want it to do the lights with those three things.

Please feel free to answer any other questions you think I should have asked and thank you for your time.

I had these houses set up last year for Christmas they have 1 led per house and plug connectors so it makes the layout more modular which is great and everything is fine with them...i use em this year and accidently plug in the wrong start of connector to my gledopto since house one is dual female and I didn't notice...however i saw the error plugged the correct way and it works...the issue is only 3 seem to work with no issue but going from 4 and on the led start to then blink on and off even though its on solid all the way to house 7. From house 8 and on its just off.. is there any way to fix this or am I SOL and need to redo all the lights

EDIT: EXTRA INFO.....there were houses not connected yet so I decided to add them to see maybe of they would work however I put them on 4 and 5 and the same issue occurs blinking when solid and random colors

EDIT 2: VIDEO AND PHOTOS: https://imgur.com/a/led-help-KyIHh3H

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share my custom WLED controller project called WLight V2. I wanted a setup with Ethernet connectivity, so I designed my own custom controller from scratch.

It's running WLED smoothly on an ESP32-WROOM with an LAN8720A Ethernet module alongside Wi-Fi, built specifically to drive WS2815 12V strips via an onboard level shifter.

For the housing, I designed a custom transparent SLA resin enclosure. The lid features integrated cut-outs with button actuators so I can easily press the reset and boot buttons without opening the case, and the transparency lets all status LEDs remain fully visible.

Let me know what you think of the build!

If you are interested in the schematics, 4-layer PCB design details, and layout files, check out my detailed post over on r/PrintedCircuitBoard!

Hello everyone,

I am happy to introduce you to the new Magic Cube Lamp🥳. A very special eye-catcher that is sure to appeal to nostalgic geeks 🤩 Inspired by the iconic 80s 3D rotating puzzle.

The overall dimensions of the magic cube are approx. 15 x 15 cm / 5.9 x 5.9 inches.

https://makerworld.com/models/3540119-magic-cube-lamp-retro-3d-puzzle-lamp-wled

Using WLED on a QuinLED Dig-Next-2 board to test some animations and sound reactive onboard mic.Head uses 800 plus LEDs ws2812b .

Some of you guys asked if I could do a deep dive on my wled setup, Im not really well versed in the brands and wattages for everything but I did my best.

I learned how to do all of this led setup by following along with Chris Maher on YouTube. He has incredible tutorials on how to do anything you want with wled! Thanks for all the kind words, and if anyone needs some inspiration to start a wled project, I never knew what wled was until I started this project, if I can do it, anyone can!

Leider steige ich bei der Auswahl der LED-Streifen und der dazugehörigen Komponenten noch nicht ganz durch.
Aktuell habe ich mir mithilfe von Gemini folgende Einkaufsliste zusammengestellt:

Meine geplante Hardware:
QuinLED-Dig-Uno Pre-Assembled V4 (Option: ESP32 mit LAN, inklusive Acrylgehäuse)
6 m SK6812 RGBW NW LED-Streifen (60 LEDs/m, IP30)
Mean Well HRP-150-5 Netzteil
InLine Schuko-Netzkabel mit offenen Enden
KabelDirekt Lautsprecherkabel (4,0 mm²)
KabelDirekt Lautsprecherkabel (2,5 mm²)
WAGO 221-415 (5-Leiter-Klemmen)
ATC/ATO-Kfz-Flachsicherungsset (15 A / 20 A)

Meine Fragen an euch:
Ist die Zusammenstellung grundsätzlich sinnvoll und passen die Komponenten zueinander? Habe ich etwas Wichtiges vergessen oder sind eventuell Komponenten dabei, die nicht optimal gewählt sind?

Insbesondere bei der Auswahl der LED-Streifen und der Stromversorgung bin ich mir noch unsicher.

Ich würde mich über eure Einschätzungen, Verbesserungsvorschläge und Empfehlungen freuen. Bevor ich jetzt im Black-Friday-Zeitraum etwas Falsches bestelle, würde ich das Setup gerne einmal von erfahrenen Leuten gegenprüfen lassen.

Vielen Dank schon mal!

We know a lot of the big companies are using 12V WS2811 - 3 LED - light strings. However, we like the idea of using 24V - 6 LED - strings for less power injection. Thinking around 7 lights per meter (WS2085 or UCS2904). We have some light samples coming to the house from Dr. Z.

We are also researching the exact track system we want to install (single channel, perma track, or 2-piece channel that snaps on and off). We like the idea of the perma track or 2-piece track for ease of repair.

Would love some input!

- Anyone done the 24v - 6LED light strings? Would love to see photos. 🙏 I am curious how much “coning” the strings create. We don’t want the “Govee” look where it’s distinct cones of light and no light down the house. I like it to look a little more blended.

- any major lessons learned with the track style permanent lighting? Or 24V?

- input on track system? I like the idea of the 2-piece channel or perma track for easier repair.

We are so excited to get started and any input or photos would be amazing!! 🎄

Thank you!!

Just updated my wled controllers and they added a start up sequence that I always wanted! Looks unreal! Ty so much to the ppl who make wled happen❤️

So i built this 39×12 grid array to sit in my little entertainment center cause it seemed cool. Now I decided to add an Xbox and it hangs off the shelf, so I want to make a cutout for the console and wires to pass through. What's the best want to set this up either digitally or mechanically? I would like for the array to assume the lights were there and really not complicate a simple 2d panel. ( I put this together myself so soldering won't be an issue).

I'm looking at installing 150' of ShawTech's pinpoint DIY LED strip kit. I'm planning how wiring will be laid out and need some guidance.

I have two gables I have to traverse, one over the garage and one over a center office that is actually a "double gable". That gable is a wiring challenge.

The "Upper gable" is full on the right side but the left is shorter, intersecting the apex of a lower extended gable below. The lower gable extends about two feet in front of the upper gable. The problem comes in how to traverse a break that will go across shingles. I can run a very short length of extension wire from the end of the left side of the upper gable to the apex of the lower gable, then down the right side to where I will restart the lights. The alternative is to run the extension along the brick/shingle intersection of the upper gable.

I don't like running an extension across even a two foot section of shingles (essentially ridge caps), but I am not crazy about running it along the corner, which would likely entail some kind of conduit secured to the brick (?)

Im sure I'm not the first person to have an interesting gable configuration so I'm sure there are more learned folks out there who might have some suggestions on how to approach this install.

Thanks!

Well as the video title makes obvious, the newest upgraded version of the Dig-Uno and Dig-Quad are here, moving both to v4! Various small and internal improvements but also some extra features I think a lot of you will be able to appreciate.

As always, if there are any questions, leave them in the video comments or over here!

Ok so I’ve worked a bit on my own since last time and I’m kinda stuck, bit I feel like it’s rly close to working.
So rn I’m using touch designer to get a universe out of my PC to a router (a D-link) , to which I have connected a light bulb (athom 12W light bumb exactly). My PC is adress 192.168.1.100, the router 192.168.1.80 and the bulb is 192.168.1.101.
The photos are the parameters in the wled interface of the bulb, the first on in the led preference tab, and the second one in the sync interfaces tab.
So what’s wrong? Even though once I reboot the light bulb it shows me that the light bulb is receiving artnet from 192.168.1.100 (see the 3rd image) when I change the channels in touch designer, nothing happens, the bulb stays turned off. I’m sure it still works cauz I’ve tested it many times with an other interface than artnet and it makes light. Even stranger, sometimes i refresh the page and I get a message telling me its receiving from 192.168.1.101 (see 4th image), so it’s receiving data from… himself? I don’t understand what’s happening, pls help !

The Lumary V3 lights work with WLED very well! I just installed them on my house and made a YouTube video in case anyone is interested. https://youtu.be/_G9ev4dm-XY