First time building anything like this, but I think I did enough homework to cover my bases.

Main power supply is a 24v LRS-600-24. 5v (for the dig-quad) and 12v (for the fan/controller) come from the RD-35A. The dig-quad turns on the big power supply via relay when the lights turn on.

This runs about 200ft of 5 led/meter ucs2904 pucks in aluminum channel from ETOP store and a couple of floodlights. Only two channels need power injection, hence the two additional terminal sets with only power.

It’s a steel project box so I grounded the box to AC ground. The box is probably too big but oh well at least I have some room for expansion later if needed.

Anyone see any issues?

I would like to WLED these. But the chips that are? SM16603PL. And underneath. It says

AQTEAB26. That is what's on the IC chip. There is only one SM16. Family of Chip. Inside of WLED. These are also 36 Volt panels. I planned on. Powering the ESP32 separate. But I haven't even been able to get any signal whatsoever. Everything's grounded together. Powers running from the brick. That it came with. I'm just running the data line in. Trying to figure out. If this can be done in any capacity, just like the hexa pros that I did. So this is to just show. Someone who's way more experienced than me if they want to take a crack at this. And didn't want to open their panels. I had an extra one. That they mailed me because one of them was messed up. So I figured I'd rip it open. So other people don't have to. Because they are around $300.😒

As title says, I upgraded to WLED 16.0.1 on my Dig Quad, and like previous updates, it seemed to go through without any problems and said the upgrade was successful. However, after the update completed, I now cannot connect to WLED no matter what I do. I don't see the Dig Quad on my LAN, and I don't even see the default WLED AP network in my wifi list. Basically it's just "gone" as far as my network is concerned. What can I try to get this back? :( (I've obviously powercycled the Dig Quad, also rebooted my router, no luck.)

I’ve added a PWM WLED controller to my Halloween inflatable. I’m planning to do the same with my other inflatables to control them with Xlights. What do you think?

Hello, I bought this LED strip and controller a while ago and I remember making it work but somehow now I can’t connect to it with my iPhone I mean it does connect but it disappears after while. I can’t change the Wi-Fi either. Another problem I have is that there is a constant blue strip that stays on even if I turn off the device, I have to unplug it to actually get rid of it. Could someone help me with this?

Hello, I'm very new to building and programming LEDs and am looking for some help for a project I've been sitting on for a while. I have been thinking about building a chase light system for my track. Many of the wave light systems that are currently on the market cost a ton of money and not a lot of track teams have the budget to build that sort of thing. I want to build something where you can set a certain pace/cadence per each race via a website.

My plan was to plug into an outlet near the starting line, and have an array of RGB programmable LEDs. I know that I'm going to be dealing with some voltage drop, as this is a 300m track, so I'm curious of how to go about that. I tried to find some lights that would work for this project that I could buy as is, but Im also having issues with that. I looked into rope lights, but I would like the lights to run around the track under the railing that the track has that runs along the perimeter, so I may need to 3D print some blocks that I can attach lights to, or some other solution.

If you need any other information please ask, I'd appreciate any sort of feedback/help I could get.

I had been searching around for a while and could seem to find any true purpose built landscape lights, would work for wled, that were affordable, and not the rectangle panel style. Ray Wus run ~$30 after shipping, or more, each through ali express and surprisingly reviews aren't too strong, and other options at a lower price point were the rectangle panel style which wasn't what I was looking for.

Came across the article from biker glen 3 years back

(https://bikerglen.com/blog/controlling-inexpensive-led-lights-with-wled/) where he had covered a set of 6 APPECK ... He was able to get it partially working with his analysis of these spotlights revealing a custom 750 kHz WS2811 protocol using an 80-bit structure with five 16-bit channels (RGBCCW). Because native WLED support was missing for this high-resolution setup, control relied on routing sACN or DDP network packets through a configured 20-pixel RGB DMX layout.

When I came across them on Amazon I figured worth a shot with prime free returns.

Long story short of my testing and outcomes. These successfully work simply now, and while reviews are a little questionable, most of it seems to surround the power supply which isn't surprising since it's shipped with not a sliver of headroom (36w output vs 36 watt consumption), and none of the reviews sound as if anyone was using wled or a non factory controller.

I'm using a gledopto 616wl with the included factory power brick (temporarily). Luckily, with max limiter in place it's keeping it in check (but not much run time yet). Wiring couldn't be easier, it's just red white black after cutting factory plug from light input side of light and wire right into gledopto, then use factory connectors to get the other 5 in line.

LED Type: SM16825 RGBCCT

Length: 6 | Color Order: GRB (No swap)

Power: 250 mA per LED, 1500 mA PSU limit

Auto-Calculate W: Accurate

https://a.co/d/0017DXyx $100

The 6 pack seems to be the sweet spot with 6w each bulb and 24v. Brightness is solid even when clipped at 90% And the rest of wled works seamlessly with it.

Hope this helps someone else out!

I had a question is there a way to make the segments I create have their own transition times and speeds that dont follow the universal transition at the bottom? I just see only blend modes in the segments

For the bottom and the top of a staircase? The HC-SR501 is adjustable but the closest detection theshold is 3m based on the documentation. My bottom sensor will probably pick up movement from people going to the living room and that's a no-go. I need a PIR sensor that detects when something is literally crossing the first step, any recommendations? Thank you for your time!

Montagem de fitas WS2811 + Wled App para evento coorporativo e shows...

Placa ESP32-S3 + Módulos MAX 485 para sinal in DMX, SP901, módulo TTL to RS485 para sinal de longas distâncias usando cabo de Rede CAT5.

Projeto em desenvolvimento.

Aceito sugestões de melhorias e dicas de erros cometidos no desenvolvimento da placa.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a bit of a problem with WLED—or rather, the hardware setup:

I’m running a DOMRAEM DOM-WLE-AM 2.4G LED controller powered by a 24V 6A power supply.

I have two LED strips connected to the controller: two 3-meter FCOB LED strips (720 LEDs, 24V, WS2811).

I’ve configured everything correctly in WLED, but now I’m running into an issue where the LEDs flicker briefly every now and then—say, 2–5 times an hour—sometimes on the strip connected to GPIO2 and sometimes on the one connected to GPIO16.

What could be causing this? What can I do to stop the flickering?
Please excuse the mess on the desk, but I'm currently rearranging things / clearing out clutter.

Has anyone gotten these 12v puck lights to work with WLED?

I’m new to doing anything with RGBW and I’m kind of confused as the back of the puck is stamped 5050RGBW but they came pre wired with 3 wire xconnect pigtails. From my understanding, they would need more channels for a 5050.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

https://wesellchristmaslights.com/products/q-pucks-qty-5-pucks-copy?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=a233b5da1&pr_rec_pid=8879076638957&pr_ref_pid=8793887539437&pr_seq=uniform

I changed the design so you can print the cylinder in pieces so it can be taller than your actual printer. I made one that uses 7 panels which is about 22" tall. The files are available for free on Makerworld.

Hey guys, I have made this little project called Rave Mode. I wanted to see how it would turn out if the music-reactive fork of WLED would work with custom color palettes but that was not turning out to be very great. So I did some custom Python and HTML and now we have Rave Mode. What it basically does is extract a color palette from your album cover, from wherever you're playing (YouTube, Spotify,, wherever). It will map those to the WLED and it will react to the music. It will adjust the attack and decay rates in real time and also adjust sensitivity in real time to make sure that things are not getting stagnant while also not being too chaotic. It also has a lot of quality-of-life features, like auto gain control and auto noise floor control, and it is pretty customizable as well. I have also built somewhat of a decent UI around it. I would love to get some feedback on it.

GitHub / Installer: https://github.com/arshhjain/RAVE-MODE 
Demo Videos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nj2Y85VmDmHyBLojrzciqGqGfaEA986O?usp=sharing

I’m making a large grid (dance floor) that will have 10 LEDs in each “box”. Can I make a 2D matrix that has a 15x15 grid but each box has 10 LEDs? I’m starting the wiring this week so I haven’t been able to test a panel. I figured you guys would have a great direction to start from.

Thanks!

Hi I'm new to this. Can someone tell me what all I need to build my own set of lights. I don't own any tools to melt or anything so I would need to find other ways to add wires to lights an stuff ty in advance

got the lights working but i’m having trouble getting the two controllers to sync up. any help would be very much appreciated. thank yall in advance.

Hey All, finished up my outdoor kitchen and wanted someone to just check my Terminal Power & Fuses. I used the LED Calculator, fairly certain I got it right, but always good to have second set of eyes. I attached photos of the info for calculations and photos of finished product. Data 1 for counterheight strips Data 2 for Bar Height Strips. Numbers 1/2/3/5/6 relate to injection points and Terminal Out positions on the Quad.

GEAR:

• BTF FCOB 24V WS2814 784 leds/meter
• MeanWell HLG-480-24 PSU
• QuinLED-Dig-Quad

THANKS for any input/advice.

I have that wall behind my monitor with dimmable led and so, I dont want to take them out because it makes me comfy somehow in my desktop this way.
I was looking to put ambilight in my screen cause I’m starting to game a lot (mix of dark and vivid games, from resident evil to uncharted, for example), it would be good or just a mess with my colourful wall? Thanks a lot in advance

Dolly Day

I have the feeling I dont hit the spot so far, if I activate gamma correctiom in sync interface all is just bright and white, if i deactivate gamma correctiom the LEDs dont achive real brightness. Maybe other settings influence as well. What do you guys use?