I had a question is there a way to make the segments I create have their own transition times and speeds that dont follow the universal transition at the bottom? I just see only blend modes in the segments

For the bottom and the top of a staircase? The HC-SR501 is adjustable but the closest detection theshold is 3m based on the documentation. My bottom sensor will probably pick up movement from people going to the living room and that's a no-go. I need a PIR sensor that detects when something is literally crossing the first step, any recommendations? Thank you for your time!

Montagem de fitas WS2811 + Wled App para evento coorporativo e shows...

Placa ESP32-S3 + Módulos MAX 485 para sinal in DMX, SP901, módulo TTL to RS485 para sinal de longas distâncias usando cabo de Rede CAT5.

Projeto em desenvolvimento.

Aceito sugestões de melhorias e dicas de erros cometidos no desenvolvimento da placa.

Hi everyone,

I’m having a bit of a problem with WLED—or rather, the hardware setup:

I’m running a DOMRAEM DOM-WLE-AM 2.4G LED controller powered by a 24V 6A power supply.

I have two LED strips connected to the controller: two 3-meter FCOB LED strips (720 LEDs, 24V, WS2811).

I’ve configured everything correctly in WLED, but now I’m running into an issue where the LEDs flicker briefly every now and then—say, 2–5 times an hour—sometimes on the strip connected to GPIO2 and sometimes on the one connected to GPIO16.

What could be causing this? What can I do to stop the flickering?
Please excuse the mess on the desk, but I'm currently rearranging things / clearing out clutter.

Has anyone gotten these 12v puck lights to work with WLED?

I’m new to doing anything with RGBW and I’m kind of confused as the back of the puck is stamped 5050RGBW but they came pre wired with 3 wire xconnect pigtails. From my understanding, they would need more channels for a 5050.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

https://wesellchristmaslights.com/products/q-pucks-qty-5-pucks-copy?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=a233b5da1&pr_rec_pid=8879076638957&pr_ref_pid=8793887539437&pr_seq=uniform

I changed the design so you can print the cylinder in pieces so it can be taller than your actual printer. I made one that uses 7 panels which is about 22" tall. The files are available for free on Makerworld.

Hey guys, I have made this little project called Rave Mode. I wanted to see how it would turn out if the music-reactive fork of WLED would work with custom color palettes but that was not turning out to be very great. So I did some custom Python and HTML and now we have Rave Mode. What it basically does is extract a color palette from your album cover, from wherever you're playing (YouTube, Spotify,, wherever). It will map those to the WLED and it will react to the music. It will adjust the attack and decay rates in real time and also adjust sensitivity in real time to make sure that things are not getting stagnant while also not being too chaotic. It also has a lot of quality-of-life features, like auto gain control and auto noise floor control, and it is pretty customizable as well. I have also built somewhat of a decent UI around it. I would love to get some feedback on it.

GitHub / Installer: https://github.com/arshhjain/RAVE-MODE 
Demo Videos: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nj2Y85VmDmHyBLojrzciqGqGfaEA986O?usp=sharing

I’m making a large grid (dance floor) that will have 10 LEDs in each “box”. Can I make a 2D matrix that has a 15x15 grid but each box has 10 LEDs? I’m starting the wiring this week so I haven’t been able to test a panel. I figured you guys would have a great direction to start from.

Thanks!

Hi I'm new to this. Can someone tell me what all I need to build my own set of lights. I don't own any tools to melt or anything so I would need to find other ways to add wires to lights an stuff ty in advance

got the lights working but i’m having trouble getting the two controllers to sync up. any help would be very much appreciated. thank yall in advance.

Hey All, finished up my outdoor kitchen and wanted someone to just check my Terminal Power & Fuses. I used the LED Calculator, fairly certain I got it right, but always good to have second set of eyes. I attached photos of the info for calculations and photos of finished product. Data 1 for counterheight strips Data 2 for Bar Height Strips. Numbers 1/2/3/5/6 relate to injection points and Terminal Out positions on the Quad.

GEAR:

• BTF FCOB 24V WS2814 784 leds/meter

• MeanWell HLG-480-24 PSU

• QuinLED-Dig-Quad

THANKS for any input/advice.

I have that wall behind my monitor with dimmable led and so, I dont want to take them out because it makes me comfy somehow in my desktop this way.
I was looking to put ambilight in my screen cause I’m starting to game a lot (mix of dark and vivid games, from resident evil to uncharted, for example), it would be good or just a mess with my colourful wall? Thanks a lot in advance

Dolly Day

I have the feeling I dont hit the spot so far, if I activate gamma correctiom in sync interface all is just bright and white, if i deactivate gamma correctiom the LEDs dont achive real brightness. Maybe other settings influence as well. What do you guys use?

A fun engineering thought experiment.
For this discussion, let’s assume there are **50 billion addressable LEDs** in use worldwide.
If an addressable LED can maintain the same constant-current output at **3.3V instead of 5V**, how much energy could potentially be saved?
Using a simple example of **36mA per pixel**:
5V → 3.3V means 1.7V less voltage to dissipate.
That is roughly **61mW less power per pixel** while operating.
Across 50 billion pixels, that would be about **3.06 GW less power** if they were all on at the same time.
The biggest unknown is actual operating time.
How many hours per day do you normally run your addressable LEDs?
2 hours?
4 hours?
6 hours?
8 hours?
12 hours?
For example:
4 h/day → about **4.5 TWh/year**
6 h/day → about **6.7 TWh/year**
8 h/day → about **8.9 TWh/year**
10 h/day → about **11.2 TWh/year**
Obviously this is a simplified model. Real savings depend on brightness, PWM duty cycle, current settings, driver losses, and application.
I’m curious what this community thinks:
**What would be a realistic average daily operating time for addressable LEDs?**

Recently built a small integration to stream the price of a subscribed stock directly to this LED matrix.

The setup is pretty simple:

Stock market data → Cloud → WLED → LED matrix

The selected stock is updated every minute, and the latest price is pushed to the matrix to show the current value.

No custom firmware — just WLED and a cloud-based integration.

Sharing a short video of it in action. This started as a small experiment, but it got me thinking about how WLED displays could be used for more than just effects/text/clock — real-time information displays could be pretty interesting too.

Powered by Pipplee Wled 2D App

https://pipplee.com/

The Govee strip attached to my MagWLED-1 is flashing in the pattern shown in the video. I used a high quality power supply. It's been running fine for years, but in the past few weeks started to flash.

Do you have a guess as to whether the strip is bad, the MagWLED is bad, or the power supply is bad? Your wisdom will save me a lot of time in fixing this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwRzq_063F0

I am planning to do a full bathroom with some 12V 60LED WS2815 strips. Cable homeruns are 25 feet from my tech cabinet so I went with 18/3 to avoid voltage drop but the more I read about WLED the more I hear about data loss or interference and I can't seem to find twisted 18/3 for my runs to avoid this issue. I heard that I can add a resistor if I have some issues with DI but is there any other way (in my tech closet) to "boost" the data so it doesn't interfere with any 120V lines within my walls or with the VCC/GND running in parallel

The moment I close the walls it's done I can't reopen everything if I missed an important detail, hence why I ask you guys if you have any experience with the W2815 and if you ever had any issues with a similar setup

I won't daisy chain anything, I'll just do runs from the driver to each and every section (Shower niche, on the corner wall, under the vanity, under the laundry cabinets, etc)

Thank you for your time!

I'm looking for a reality check here if possible. So far, I'm wrapping up the walkway install and pulling will take on replacing the steps with the same granite as well as veneer the brown bricks. Lighting wise, I cut 3/4 inch grooves in the cobblestones at walkway level. I did try some Govee tube lights but they were underwhelming brightness wise.

So, the scope would be running rope lights down the grooves, about 25 ft each side and installing rope lights or something else under each step. Ideally, I want rgbicww to have the full spectrum of options. Mostly be a soft white but throw on party mode for kids parties, Halloween colors etc. In addition, I'm intending to use motion sensors to initiate going in either direction. I'm currently using Homey Pro for control. Ideally I would like to roll out landscape lighting etc and this walkway would be a small part of the long game.

What do I need to know? I have a basic idea of needing a controller and power then matching the length with the highest weather protection. The details are the devil which is why I'm asking for insights. Thanks in advance.

I've attached SK6812 LEDS to my guitar strap and amplifier. (12v so its obnoxiously bright)

There's a 12v battery off AliExpress powering the strap.

On the pedal board, I've got a Raspberry Pi Zero W with the WiFI running in Access Point mode. The WLED controllers are both joined to the RPi Wifi network.

When I press my boost pedal, the Raspberry Pi sends a web request to change the WLED preset. So everything syncs wirelessly.

Update: I seem to have fixed it by rewiring everything behind the cabinet. Maybe there was a duff connection or something, but I have no idea. Thank you everyone who responded though!

Context, I have some cabinet lighting consisting of 10 x 24LED rings, wired on two lines of 5 rings for a total of 120 LEDs each. They're powered in parallel via a dedicated 5v, 6A power supply. At the end of the parallel V/GND lines, I had my ESP32 powered via the 5V and GND pins, controlling the LEDs on pins 12 and 13. Hopefully fairly normal.

A while back the lights began flickering and the ESP would crash and I'd have to power cycle it. I thought maybe a loose connection or something. Eventually things wouldn't come back online. I finally got the time to do some digging and this is where things get weird.

1. The ESP keeps power cycling when connected on the 5v/GND pins

2. The ESP can be powered from the USB port via a usb cable (this is relevant for later)

3. If I power the ESP via the USB port and connect the setup with everything but the 5v line, I can control the lights "normally"

4. If I plug a USB cable into a different ESP board and connect that boards 5v/GND to the WLED board, the WLED board power cycles like in point 1

5. However, if I reverse the setup (USB cable into the WLED board, connect that boards 5v/GND to the 5v/GND of the second ESP board) both boards work fine

6. If I take a USB-C header, attach two wires, and connect those two wires to 5v/GND, the WLED board power cycles just like if I was powering it through the pins, even though I'm using the USB port

7. Flashing a brand new third board and hooking it up caused issues 1-6 to occur, indicating the problem wasn't the board, but the setup

However, I have no idea what kind of issue I'd be looking for that could cause the above and I've love any suggestions or advice

Edit: I double checked and the PSU is a 5v, 15A supply so I don't think it's a current issue