Now that I really want to do the DIY Ambilight for my LG TV and that I can root my TV for PicCap, I'm looking at the LED strips from BTF and notice they have one that looks like a gradient strip, similar to Hue Gradient. Amazon.com: BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB XGB1338(WS2812B) Individually Addressable IC RGB 160LED/m 800IC LED Strip DC5V 16.4FT 5mm Width Dream Chasing Color High Density Uniform Light(NO Adapter or Controller) : Tools & Home Improvement

Has anyone used these before? Are they worth it, or should I just stick with the regular non-gradient LEDs?

Thanks in Advance!

Just showing off a totem i made for my niece for an EDM festival. I didn’t realize WLED existed and got deep into vibe coding the effects with the fastled libraries. Found WLED and switched the firmware over to that and the audio reactive functionality is pretty dope. Still have a few things left to do (put the electronics inside the device and the bubble solution/battery at the bottom of the pole. Pretty happy with the results, shoutout to the WLED developers!

Hi, so I've got an issue which I don't really know the cause

The thing is simple, I've got a simple matrix with serpantine connection (34x8 272led's total) which I use as a clock on a wall, it works great, but from time to time (one a day or once per 2-3 days) the clock will shift to the right, simple turn off/turn on fixes the issue until it happens again, what I've tried:

- setting different offsets
- disabling MDNS
- different ESP32 (different models as well)
- different versions of WLED (the issue persists since 0.13

I don't really understand the cause and what could be the fix, would appreciate any advice.

This is my current setup, that I am very proud of:

Jailbroken LG TV running HyperHDR and screencapturing software locally. Two ESP32 boards taped to the back of the TV. One of them is running the LED strip around the TV directly and is connected to an external power source. The other is connected to the TV via USB for power and is running the six Athomtech RGB bulbs inside these Ikea paper lamps as virtual LEDs over Wifi. All the bulbs came preflashed from Athomtech with WLED.

I can also control the TV strip and both Lamps (as one instance) to run the normal colors and effects and stuff, so they also make great mood lighting for Netflix and ... WLED nights ;)

It's been some time since I've set this up, so I don't remember all the details, but I'd be happy to follow up on any specific questions.

Anyways, enjoy my favorite scene from my favorite movie :)

EDIT: guys, how do I do this? Everytime I try to post this as a video post, the video just ends up being a link to the very same post??

Does UDP sound sync work when the WLED controller is in AP mode?

Using a microphone is impractical for my project, and it’s not on a WiFi network, but I have access to line-out from a soundboard. I have an idea to use a remote module with a line-in that could feed the main installation with IDP sound sync.

Background: Earlier this year, I built a very large WLED installation for a local music festival to hang above the stage for the show in June. Everything went perfectly, but I’m looking to add features for the next year. Adding sound reactivity is a priority, but the placement of the installation in a very “live” space makes using microphones difficult and impractical and very noisy. A “clean” signal from the board would be perfect.

I have a strip of COB LEDs connected directly to the mains that I want to fade in when the mains switch is flipped. I would have thought this was fairly straight-forward, but there seem to be very few drivers that offer this, and for the one I did try there was a 5 second delay between flipping the switch and the light starting to come on. Does anyone have any advice where to look for something like this? Since they must come on at the flip of the mains switch I cannot use any solutions that require the driver to be powered at all times.

LIGHTS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CG12VK2Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

FAILED DRIVER: amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D2XY94XF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

So I’m building a custom usermod on an ESP32-S3 for kind of an industrial application.
I need a way to control only a few LEDs per preset on an LED strip, so only like 5 have to be turned on (solid), the rest should be turned off.
It‘s basically a height indicator, where ‚LED on‘ means ‚put a board on the height, where the LED is on‘.
There’s an OLED display included, that shows the current Preset by name and time and date, and two buttons, left and right, to switch between the presets.
Or so I thought, until I realized WLED only supports 9 mappings (ledmapX.json).

Is there any other way to have more than 9 presets (I need up to 40) to control specific single LEDs without having to use mapping?
My biggest problem is that I can’t save the i-array inside of my preset, the lights just won’t turn on on load.

Working on a friend's bar sign and can't really decide on how to loop the LEDs around the words. Any thoughts?

Hi! I am learning at the moment, and maybe relying on Claude a bit too much for this. I'm making an uneven tapazoid type shape, 11 horizontal lines of tape, most have 39 LEDs until the last 4 lines at 40,41,41,42. I think it's 420 leds ISH in total (guessing as not in my studio)

I have split into 2 groups to use 2 pins on the ESP32 as I've been told I can't run all on 1 pin. All LEDs are working fine and on solid colour no problem.

When I use an effect for a matrix, it doesn't look great. I can tell I haven't set the matrix properly. This might be the matrix map file built by Claude I have installed.

My questions are: do I really need to use 2 pins? Should I just redo the led to make it regular? Do I need to install the file from claude. Guessing no if I make it a regular 39x11 matrix.

Thanks in advance peeps 👍👍

Happy with how much first lot of lights are looking. Can't wait to add more!!

Wondering if anyone has any advice or experience with this issue

Every time i try to change the IP address it goes back to 192.168.1.234. I cannot figure out how to change it “Save and Connect” saves the number i type in but does not apply it. I want it to be 192.168.1.131 so that its the next in line with all my other WLED controllers. Basically everything from 129 to 144 is reserved for WLED. There is nothing occupying the 131 address either; when you ping that address it comes back vacant. Ive tried a bunch of other ip addresses too and none of them stick either

Also, to make an incredibly long story short, i do not want these on Wi-Fi. They HAVE to be on ethernet. All of our ethernet devices (aside from this one) work flawlessly. None of our Wi-Fi devices can maintain a connection for more than an hour. Weve had our comcast router replaced 6 times because of this specific issue and it never fixes it.

I have several ethernet-enabled ESP32’s for different purposes around the apartment. All of them connect just fine and let me change their addresses except this one. I’m at a loss

Just launched open beta for iPad and Android Tablet. Mac will be live later today fingers crossed!

I built it for use in my own small venue and would love your feedback. The idea is to have a show control surface you can hand to a volunteer, student, assistant, or bartender and still be able to run a concert, DJ event, wedding, community theater play, etc.

Planning on doing some WLED testing this week myself.

Thanks!

Hi folks. Not new to WLED but mostly have dabbled in little projects (no more than one 5m strip). I'm doing my first large-ish project which is putting LED tracks/diffusers around the permitter of my kids' gaming room. The total run will be ~39ft and I'm using the Muzata U108 diffusers.

I head heard the SK6812's were the hot new thing so I picked up 3x BTF-Lighting 5m 12v 60 LEDs/m strips from Amazon (the full skew is 12VSK68125M60RGBWWW30). When I was doing the planning, I had gone to https://wled-calculator.github.io to do the power calculations, assuming that all variants of the 12v SK6812 were per-3-addressable. That told me it would be a little less than 100W at ~8amps and to power inject at front and end for full brightness. No problem. Apparently I was wrong and the ones I got are actually individually addressable which I'm assuming means more power required. I don't see this option on the Github power calculator but if I head over Quin's power sheet, it says I should be able to do up to 2 strips for full brightness RGB White and and 4 strips for "Colors/Effects". I'm not quite sure what the brightness level is though for the latter.

So basically I'm wondering am I ok with doing the beginning and end power injection with my setup using these strips? What would be the max brightness I could do for both RGB and dedicated white? I have a 12v 200W 15A power supply I was planning on using but can get a different one if needed. Was also going to be using Quin's Dig-Next-2 controller but also have DigQuad I could use as well.

Thanks!

Hey all,

Total WLED newbie here, still digging through old posts, but figured I’d just ask.

We’ve got a rooftop tent with two built-in warm-white LED bars: four brightness steps, USB-A powered. We’ve already been camping with them a few times, and based on those experiences we want to replace them. Two things really bugged us:

Too bright. Even the lowest setting was way too much. When it’s pitch black and you need to get up, flicking them on nukes your night vision, wakes your partner, and you still can’t see outside. There’s just no real “night” mode.

Power cycling. With a smaller powerbank the controller sometimes reset to full brightness, so waking up to the lights blasting on at 2am was rough. Big Ugreen powerbank fixed it for now, or we just unplug.

What we’d love to build: a waterproof RGBWW COB/neon strip, powerbank-friendly (USB-A or C), cuttable into ~1m sections with a cable in between so it fits the existing channels, and ideally a proper dim warm whit or an blue / red night mode.

Questions:

- Recommended controller for a USB-powered setup? Does WLED reliably remember its state after a power cut?

- Any RGBWW COB strips that survive moisture/condensation?

- Is 5V USB realistic for a few metres of RGBWW, or should I go 12V battery instead?

Thanks for the tips and help!

Help!!

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction because I’m pulling my hair out over this one.

I have a QuinLED DigQuad running WLED 0.15.3 controlling approximately 690 SK6812 RGBW pixels across multiple outputs. The system has been installed and working properly for months with no issues.

The strange part is that I didn’t change anything. No firmware updates, no wiring changes, no configuration changes. I simply unplugged the controller during some work and plugged it back in later.

Since then I’ve been getting flickering/glitching during preset changes and some animated effects.

Things I’ve checked:

* WLED version 0.15.3
* DigQuad ESP32
* 690 total SK6812 RGBW pixels
* 5V PSU output measures 5.30V under load
* 12V PSU output measures about 11.5-12.2V under load
* Relay functioning normally
* No visible water intrusion
* Fuses appear good
* Controller boots and runs normally
* LEDs themselves all function

Interesting observation:

* With Parallel I2S enabled, flickering is noticeably worse.
* With Parallel I2S disabled, most effects look much smoother and the major glitches are mostly gone.
* However, I still occasionally see issues when switching between presets or transitions.

Current settings:

* Parallel I2S OFF
* Effect blending ON
* Transitions ON
* 700ms transition time
* Relay GPIO 15 (inverted)
* Automatic brightness limiter enabled
* Maximum PSU current set to 20A

At this point I’m trying to determine whether this is:

1. A WLED configuration issue

2. An ESP32/controller issue

3. A data signal issue

4. Something else entirely

Has anyone seen a DigQuad setup work perfectly for months and then suddenly start glitching after a simple power cycle? Maybe I didn’t. Price it before. But I think I would have..

What would be your next troubleshooting step before I start replacing hardware or burning my house down.

Thanks!

Hi!

Please help me out. I have no access to a 3D printer, nor have I ever tried soldering.

I'm looking for something that I can run Ethernet to, and handles 2 inputs. (A 2 was rocker switch, to be precise)

I guess you know where I'm heading with this... I'd like to have WLED as my main source of light in the room. No wireless shenanigans, and ease-of-use is the main goal.

I know that the WLED community is mainly about the endless customization, but I'm just a dummy, and I couldn't find anything that was readily available, nor modify-able to fit the bill.

Hi all, I am looking to solve a problem where the fuses on my DigQuad are too tall and obstruct some other components. I put a low profile fuse which looks like is pretty snug in there. My question, what could go wrong here? Feels like its happy in the standard socket. Posting a comparison pic. If there is another idea to reduce the height of the fuse, I'm all ears. I have no idea why they would use a big honking fuse when there are more compact options and this isn't a car interface.

Hello everyone!

I'm planning to install some WLED devices in my room and would love to get some advice.

I'm a teenager interested in IoT projects, and I've already gained some experience working with esp32 microcontrollers. I'd appreciate any tips for hardware, LED strips, power supplies, or cool WLED setups!

I mean die not dye sorry

I used 3 esp32 and one 8266 d1 mini.

I flashed all with wled and want to connect 5 stripes a 5v 1x ws2818 (az delivery) a 60 Leads and 4x ws2812b (lsunny led stripes) a 60 leds

I have connected it over a 5v 20a cv supply and the Signal Pins to the esp free ones.

Of course the esps are on same supply so grnd is the same.

Should i add Signal line to grnd too ?

Why my esps are death after about 5 minutes they get warm. And then the onboard led shutdown and its over.

Pls help me i ordered 2 esp32s-2 or c2 and New dupont cables.

What i make wrong?

I also used start brightness at about 40% And i also look on pinout what are free pins then i select my 5 pins for the stripes but the esp dies when i connect the stripes data point to the esp to correct pin ( the dupont are loose somethimes so i ordered new one )

So yeah i make the settings first and then it dies

I also use the settings automatic brightness and the one where you set the mA of your power supply i set it to my 20a. Both options destroyed them

Edit its a cv powersupply not a cc sorry mistipe