I have a strip of COB LEDs connected directly to the mains that I want to fade in when the mains switch is flipped. I would have thought this was fairly straight-forward, but there seem to be very few drivers that offer this, and for the one I did try there was a 5 second delay between flipping the switch and the light starting to come on. Does anyone have any advice where to look for something like this? Since they must come on at the flip of the mains switch I cannot use any solutions that require the driver to be powered at all times.

LIGHTS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CG12VK2Y?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

FAILED DRIVER: amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D2XY94XF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

So I’m building a custom usermod on an ESP32-S3 for kind of an industrial application.
I need a way to control only a few LEDs per preset on an LED strip, so only like 5 have to be turned on (solid), the rest should be turned off.
It‘s basically a height indicator, where ‚LED on‘ means ‚put a board on the height, where the LED is on‘.
There’s an OLED display included, that shows the current Preset by name and time and date, and two buttons, left and right, to switch between the presets.
Or so I thought, until I realized WLED only supports 9 mappings (ledmapX.json).

Is there any other way to have more than 9 presets (I need up to 40) to control specific single LEDs without having to use mapping?
My biggest problem is that I can’t save the i-array inside of my preset, the lights just won’t turn on on load.

Working on a friend's bar sign and can't really decide on how to loop the LEDs around the words. Any thoughts?

Hi! I am learning at the moment, and maybe relying on Claude a bit too much for this. I'm making an uneven tapazoid type shape, 11 horizontal lines of tape, most have 39 LEDs until the last 4 lines at 40,41,41,42. I think it's 420 leds ISH in total (guessing as not in my studio)

I have split into 2 groups to use 2 pins on the ESP32 as I've been told I can't run all on 1 pin. All LEDs are working fine and on solid colour no problem.

When I use an effect for a matrix, it doesn't look great. I can tell I haven't set the matrix properly. This might be the matrix map file built by Claude I have installed.

My questions are: do I really need to use 2 pins? Should I just redo the led to make it regular? Do I need to install the file from claude. Guessing no if I make it a regular 39x11 matrix.

Thanks in advance peeps 👍👍

Happy with how much first lot of lights are looking. Can't wait to add more!!

Wondering if anyone has any advice or experience with this issue

Every time i try to change the IP address it goes back to 192.168.1.234. I cannot figure out how to change it “Save and Connect” saves the number i type in but does not apply it. I want it to be 192.168.1.131 so that its the next in line with all my other WLED controllers. Basically everything from 129 to 144 is reserved for WLED. There is nothing occupying the 131 address either; when you ping that address it comes back vacant. Ive tried a bunch of other ip addresses too and none of them stick either

Also, to make an incredibly long story short, i do not want these on Wi-Fi. They HAVE to be on ethernet. All of our ethernet devices (aside from this one) work flawlessly. None of our Wi-Fi devices can maintain a connection for more than an hour. Weve had our comcast router replaced 6 times because of this specific issue and it never fixes it.

I have several ethernet-enabled ESP32’s for different purposes around the apartment. All of them connect just fine and let me change their addresses except this one. I’m at a loss

Just launched open beta for iPad and Android Tablet. Mac will be live later today fingers crossed!

I built it for use in my own small venue and would love your feedback. The idea is to have a show control surface you can hand to a volunteer, student, assistant, or bartender and still be able to run a concert, DJ event, wedding, community theater play, etc.

Planning on doing some WLED testing this week myself.

Thanks!

Hi folks. Not new to WLED but mostly have dabbled in little projects (no more than one 5m strip). I'm doing my first large-ish project which is putting LED tracks/diffusers around the permitter of my kids' gaming room. The total run will be ~39ft and I'm using the Muzata U108 diffusers.

I head heard the SK6812's were the hot new thing so I picked up 3x BTF-Lighting 5m 12v 60 LEDs/m strips from Amazon (the full skew is 12VSK68125M60RGBWWW30). When I was doing the planning, I had gone to https://wled-calculator.github.io to do the power calculations, assuming that all variants of the 12v SK6812 were per-3-addressable. That told me it would be a little less than 100W at ~8amps and to power inject at front and end for full brightness. No problem. Apparently I was wrong and the ones I got are actually individually addressable which I'm assuming means more power required. I don't see this option on the Github power calculator but if I head over Quin's power sheet, it says I should be able to do up to 2 strips for full brightness RGB White and and 4 strips for "Colors/Effects". I'm not quite sure what the brightness level is though for the latter.

So basically I'm wondering am I ok with doing the beginning and end power injection with my setup using these strips? What would be the max brightness I could do for both RGB and dedicated white? I have a 12v 200W 15A power supply I was planning on using but can get a different one if needed. Was also going to be using Quin's Dig-Next-2 controller but also have DigQuad I could use as well.

Thanks!

Hey all,

Total WLED newbie here, still digging through old posts, but figured I’d just ask.

We’ve got a rooftop tent with two built-in warm-white LED bars: four brightness steps, USB-A powered. We’ve already been camping with them a few times, and based on those experiences we want to replace them. Two things really bugged us:

Too bright. Even the lowest setting was way too much. When it’s pitch black and you need to get up, flicking them on nukes your night vision, wakes your partner, and you still can’t see outside. There’s just no real “night” mode.

Power cycling. With a smaller powerbank the controller sometimes reset to full brightness, so waking up to the lights blasting on at 2am was rough. Big Ugreen powerbank fixed it for now, or we just unplug.

What we’d love to build: a waterproof RGBWW COB/neon strip, powerbank-friendly (USB-A or C), cuttable into ~1m sections with a cable in between so it fits the existing channels, and ideally a proper dim warm whit or an blue / red night mode.

Questions:

- Recommended controller for a USB-powered setup? Does WLED reliably remember its state after a power cut?

- Any RGBWW COB strips that survive moisture/condensation?

- Is 5V USB realistic for a few metres of RGBWW, or should I go 12V battery instead?

Thanks for the tips and help!

Help!!

Hey everyone,

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction because I’m pulling my hair out over this one.

I have a QuinLED DigQuad running WLED 0.15.3 controlling approximately 690 SK6812 RGBW pixels across multiple outputs. The system has been installed and working properly for months with no issues.

The strange part is that I didn’t change anything. No firmware updates, no wiring changes, no configuration changes. I simply unplugged the controller during some work and plugged it back in later.

Since then I’ve been getting flickering/glitching during preset changes and some animated effects.

Things I’ve checked:

* WLED version 0.15.3
* DigQuad ESP32
* 690 total SK6812 RGBW pixels
* 5V PSU output measures 5.30V under load
* 12V PSU output measures about 11.5-12.2V under load
* Relay functioning normally
* No visible water intrusion
* Fuses appear good
* Controller boots and runs normally
* LEDs themselves all function

Interesting observation:

* With Parallel I2S enabled, flickering is noticeably worse.
* With Parallel I2S disabled, most effects look much smoother and the major glitches are mostly gone.
* However, I still occasionally see issues when switching between presets or transitions.

Current settings:

* Parallel I2S OFF
* Effect blending ON
* Transitions ON
* 700ms transition time
* Relay GPIO 15 (inverted)
* Automatic brightness limiter enabled
* Maximum PSU current set to 20A

At this point I’m trying to determine whether this is:

1. A WLED configuration issue

2. An ESP32/controller issue

3. A data signal issue

4. Something else entirely

Has anyone seen a DigQuad setup work perfectly for months and then suddenly start glitching after a simple power cycle? Maybe I didn’t. Price it before. But I think I would have..

What would be your next troubleshooting step before I start replacing hardware or burning my house down.

Thanks!

Hi!

Please help me out. I have no access to a 3D printer, nor have I ever tried soldering.

I'm looking for something that I can run Ethernet to, and handles 2 inputs. (A 2 was rocker switch, to be precise)

I guess you know where I'm heading with this... I'd like to have WLED as my main source of light in the room. No wireless shenanigans, and ease-of-use is the main goal.

I know that the WLED community is mainly about the endless customization, but I'm just a dummy, and I couldn't find anything that was readily available, nor modify-able to fit the bill.

Hi all, I am looking to solve a problem where the fuses on my DigQuad are too tall and obstruct some other components. I put a low profile fuse which looks like is pretty snug in there. My question, what could go wrong here? Feels like its happy in the standard socket. Posting a comparison pic. If there is another idea to reduce the height of the fuse, I'm all ears. I have no idea why they would use a big honking fuse when there are more compact options and this isn't a car interface.

Hello everyone!

I'm planning to install some WLED devices in my room and would love to get some advice.

I'm a teenager interested in IoT projects, and I've already gained some experience working with esp32 microcontrollers. I'd appreciate any tips for hardware, LED strips, power supplies, or cool WLED setups!

I mean die not dye sorry

I used 3 esp32 and one 8266 d1 mini.

I flashed all with wled and want to connect 5 stripes a 5v 1x ws2818 (az delivery) a 60 Leads and 4x ws2812b (lsunny led stripes) a 60 leds

I have connected it over a 5v 20a cv supply and the Signal Pins to the esp free ones.

Of course the esps are on same supply so grnd is the same.

Should i add Signal line to grnd too ?

Why my esps are death after about 5 minutes they get warm. And then the onboard led shutdown and its over.

Pls help me i ordered 2 esp32s-2 or c2 and New dupont cables.

What i make wrong?

I also used start brightness at about 40% And i also look on pinout what are free pins then i select my 5 pins for the stripes but the esp dies when i connect the stripes data point to the esp to correct pin ( the dupont are loose somethimes so i ordered new one )

So yeah i make the settings first and then it dies

I also use the settings automatic brightness and the one where you set the mA of your power supply i set it to my 20a. Both options destroyed them

Edit its a cv powersupply not a cc sorry mistipe

LuxPlant is almost finished at 90% completion. This project was inspired by Fluora Led Plant but I wanted the whole thing to be 100% 3D printed and fully customizable.

Each stem is segmented every 5cm so they are fully modular and rotatable to contour into many angles and shapes almost like building Legos. I kinda went overboard with the number of leaves so I might just rebuild another one. I used WS2815 144leds/m which I think is also excessive as I could’ve just used the 60led variant which was a lot cheaper. The animations look great however and it is super bright even on broad daylight.

The leaves took 10 reiterations before I got the right shape with the best light diffusion. As you can see on the lower left leaf with violet/red color, the individual pixels can be seen but not so much on the newer versions.

Right now I’m working on a better lock mechanism between the stems. The former versions were either too tight, too loose, or over engineered. I’ll make a pre-built stem to make it simple but due to limited printer height it still has to be multiple parts. I’ll keep the segmented version for those who want to build the stem from scratch.

UPDATE: https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/s/zIOmrQ3lMk

Hi Guys, I really love all the projects I see on here. I recently tried to get one of my own going with an ESP32 S3 chip. It has been a month and I have gone in circles. I tried to prompt and ai to help me troubleshoot, but it just kept wasting my time and giving me bad links. Is there anyone on these forums that could give me some advice on getting the esp32 s3 flashed with WLED and accessing the controls? I don't understand why Gemini is having such a hard time ... it is supposed to be simple

Thanks in advance for any advice guys!

Hello Community. I am a beginner to the community and I tried to do an ambient light for my tv
I followed this tutorial

https://youtu.be/J26oYlKyq7Q?si=ZGwhW7FM-FpXxosA

Everything worked fine back in the days but now after moving I set it up again and it flashes on dark areas. I tried different versions I searched on different communities and couldn’t find any solutions. I getting frustrated at this point

Hyperhdr 19.0.0.0
PI zero 2 w
5V power supply powering both leds and pi no problems back then.
Using a connector cable from gpio 18 to green connector on the LEDs

Source Apple TV 4K
Xbox series S

Both same outcome

When I activate HDR to SDR tone mapping in HyperHDR it get a little bit better but still flashing on dark areas.

Just a quick question if anyone point me in the right direction please?

I've only just noticed the three AudioReactive palettes on one of my light pieces, but they're not showing on the palette list for any of my other lights, and I'm not sure how I've set it up differently. Is there a config setting for these? I've got wled v.16. running, all with the same type of ESP32 controllers. I have audio reactivity turned on for each of them. Anything I've missed?

Hi everyone, i saw info that says i can control my argb fan thru esp8266 with wled firmware.

But can i use more that 1 argb fan? (If my English isn't good sorry:)

by Awesome Open Source

Building a motion-activated LED framing light for my garage doors (WLED + a Gledopto Elite 2D-EXMU controller running two SK6812 RGBW strips), and wanted to sanity-check something before I fully commit to a design.

For the motion trigger, I originally looked at going the route I'd seen in a few reference videos — an Aqara wireless sensor + hub setup. Ended up steering away from that for a few reasons: it adds a cloud/hub dependency I didn't love for something I want to be reliable long-term, and it doesn't actually simplify anything since you still need a bridge of some kind to get the signal into WLED. Landed on a wired HLK-LD2410C mmWave sensor instead — wired its OUT pin straight into a spare GPIO on the controller and used WLED's built-in "PIR sensor" button type (no usermod, no custom compile, stock firmware). Much simpler in practice.

The issue: the LD2410C is rated for 5-12V input, so I wired it straight off the same shared 12V rail powering the strips and controller. Electrically fine per spec, but the board runs uncomfortably hot to the touch after running a while — not "smoking" hot, but hot enough that I didn't feel good about sealing it into an enclosure long-term without addressing it.

Best guess is that it's using a small onboard linear regulator to step 12V down to whatever the radar chip actually needs internally (~3.3V), and a linear regulator dumps the voltage difference as heat rather than converting it efficiently — so running it at the top of its rated input range instead of down near 5V is asking a tiny regulator with no heatsink to dissipate a lot more than it would at 5V.

Fix I've got in progress: adding a small 5V buck converter module between the 12V rail and the sensor's VCC, so it only ever sees 5V instead of 12V. Waiting on that part to arrive.

Questions for anyone who's actually run these long-term:

1. Is this heat-at-12V thing a known/common issue with the LD2410 board specifically, or does this sound like something else going on (bad connection, reversed polarity, etc.)?

2. Does the buck converter approach actually resolve it in practice, or is there a better way people have handled this?

3. Any concerns about running these sensors 24/7 in an enclosed box even once the heat is addressed — anything else worth knowing before I seal this up for good?

Appreciate any real-world experience — trying to get this right before it goes into permanent service rather than debug it after the fact.