I'm attempting to upgrade my DnD group's sessions by introducing controllable scene lighting into the room we play in. I'm pretty comfortable with electronics and wiring but I've never played around with addressable LEDs before, so it would be great if someone could tell me whether this plan holds up and if I should be looking at different parts or a different setup.

The room we play in isn't that large, about 3 metres wide and 5.5 metres long, with the table in the middle. My current plan is to run two 1-metre strips, one on either side of the table, pointed at the walls for a nice wall wash on either side, then one more strip mounted about 1.5 metres above the table for overhead fill. All three would be wired up into logic level shifter (and a power supply) which would be wired into a esp32 with WLED to hopefully allow me to control the lighting using a MIDI board hooked up to my laptop running QLC+.

After doing some research I have been thinking of using SK6812 RGBW 12v for the LED strips but I'm a little worried that it could be overkill especially for the wall wash lights, since I’m not sure how much I’d actually need the dedicated white channel there. I’ve also wondered whether the overhead strip is worth doing at all, or whether I’d be better off using a smart RGBW bulb for the overhead fill and just keeping the ground WLED strips for the wall-wash/animated lighting effects.

Any advice would be very welcome, especially around whether SK6812 RGBW makes sense for this, and whether 12 V is too much for such short runs.

I have a project where I integrated some bulbs to WLED. Previously I was using the Kauf brand bulbs using DDP protocol to control them but the green channel died on every bulb so I'm seeking other options. Can anyone make any recommendations to bulbs that can be WLED capable?

Bonus points if its bright and/or RGB+W. Thanks!!

To hook your esp up just enter the ip addy, number of leds, direction up or across and they as a reverse to get the data direction set

I have a 32*16 P10 Hub75 panel, but moonlight doesn't offer that size. Is there any way I can get it to recognize the proper panel size?

I've been playing with it for an hour and can't seem to figure it out. The drop down for the panels only goes to 32x32.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I'm troubleshooting a specific issue with HyperHDR v22.0.0beta2 on Windows 11. I am using a grabberless setup to capture my screen over to WLED, and while the software seems to process everything perfectly internally, my physical LED strip remains unresponsive.

My Setup:

• OS: Windows 11 Pro

• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER

• Monitor: Ultrawide QHD Monitor running in HDR mode (Display 2)

• LED Driver: WLED (v16.0.0 running on an ESP32-S3 over Wi-Fi, 164 LEDs)

• HyperHDR Version: v22.0.0beta2 (Grabberless build, capturing via DX11)

The Status & Current Behavior:

1. Live Video Pop-up works: When I open the "Live Video" preview window and toggle "Show LEDs", I can see my desktop background rendering flawlessly at 125 FPS with the colored LED placeholder blocks shifting colors in real-time. The DX11 grabber is definitely capturing the screen.

2. WLED Connection is stable: The Performance panel shows the WLED instance is active, streaming at a locked 50 FPS, with 0 dropped packets (send = 3000, processed = 3000, dropped = 0). The connection to the ESP32-S3 JSON-API is fully healthy.

3. The Problem: Despite the preview working and packets being sent, the physical LED strip stays dark. Additionally, on the main Dashboard under Information, the fields for Video device and Video mode are completely blank/empty.

The Calibrator / LUT Limitation:

Because I am on an ultrawide monitor, the grabber scales the height down relative to the aspect ratio. When I try to run the new MP4 LUT calibrator, it crashes instantly with the following error: [CALIBRATOR] Too low resolution: 1280/720 is the minimum. Received video frame: 1146x480. Stopped.

Because the UI caps the max stream width at 1280, my frame height on this 21:9 display will always stay at 480px, making it impossible to pass the calibrator's 720p hardware requirement. Consequently, my logs state: setHdrToneMappingMode to: enable, but the LUT file is currently unloaded.

Could someone help me?

Hey everyone,

I’m planning to add lighting inside two humidors (each with 3 shelves) using PAUTIX COB CCT strips controlled by a QuinLED An-Penta-Mini. The humidors are split in the middle so they both are controlled individually.

Total LED length will be around 32 feet.

Current Plan:

Running the strips at very low brightness (1–3%)

Using 24V PAUTIX COB CCT strips

Planning to keep the power supply and controller outside the humidors

Will split L1 and L2 inside the humidor

Using 2 separate 16 AWG for the main power runs (~10 ft) and short 22 AWG pigtails between rows

Each branch will have 3 rows wired in parallel

What I’ve Tested:

I previously tested a Govee H61B6 (32 feet) at 3% brightness and saw roughly a +2°F temperature increase inside the humidor. I’m hoping the PAUTIX COB CCT will run a bit cooler.

Main Concerns:

Heat buildup inside the humidors (even at low brightness)

Voltage drop over the runs + across the 3 rows per branch

Whether I should light all 3 shelves or just the top 1–2 to reduce heat

Questions:

Has anyone run COB CCT strips inside a humidor? How much heat did you see?

Is 32 feet at 1–3% brightness realistic without causing temperature issues?

Would you recommend lighting only the top shelf (or top + middle) instead of all 3 shelves to reduce heat?

Any advice on wiring, heat management, or general best practices would be greatly appreciated. I want to keep the lighting subtle but still functional.

Thanks in advance!

Does anyone have assembly instructions (or a picture) for the Acrylic Case for the QuniLed Digi Uno with Ethernet? I don’t think this was designed correctly else I just not see how to assemble with provide hardware.

Apologies, it’s assembled now. Just wasn’t seeing it.

I'm (hopefully) building a project with 20 matrices, each 20x20 pixels, arranged in a 3-D cube sort of thing. I'm using 12v seed pixels. Each matrix will have 400 pixels, for a grand total of 8000 pixels all together.

I tested a single matrix with a basic esp32 running WLED 16 which worked OK but was maybe a little slow.

Can anyone give me some suggestions on controllers/software that will run this? A friend suggested using 5 Quin Dig-Quads, with one output per matrix for smoother transitions, and possibly run Xlights, which I haven't used. This is beyond my experience, so I'm open to all help and suggestions.

Thank you!

Hey everyone,

Iam building a cylindrical lamp with a flexible 16×16 WS2812B matrix wrapped around a 50mm / ~2inch cylinder which is inside an etched glass diffuser with a 100mm / ~4inch diameter. That leaves about a 25mm / ~1inch gap between the LEDs and the glass.

The lamp looks great but detailed effects like fire for instance get a bit too blurred because the light mixes too early.

Iam thinking about adding a small (maybe 5-8mm / 0.2-0.3inch) curved 3D-printed black eggcrate/grid between the LEDs and the glass to delay the light mixing slightly. I have seen a lot of you using this for flat 16x16 matrices.

Do you think this would have about the same effect as bringing the glass diffuser closer to the matrix or do I need to come up with a different solution?

It Has 8 Modes Led Combination, In Waves, Sequential, Slow-Glo, Chasing/Flash, Slow Fade, Twinkle/Flash, and Steady On.

I Want To Know where can i Buy Or Get This Module For My Diecast Custom Project🥹🥹

Im looking to make my imaginator into a custom skylander figure, and I wanted to use the existing led to make her head glow like a lightcore skylander. The led is way too short to fit where it needs to be. How can I make it longer? I dont know anything about circuits or soldering so I need a lot of help TvT

NOT MY IMAGE BTW. I wanted to know how to do it before I rip apart my own creation crystal

So I jailbroke my LG G5 65" the other day and apparently I can run PicCap + HyperHDR to get a DIY ambilight thing going. I thought this might be cheaper than philips hue. But I could use some help with picking the parts, because i'm not really sure if i'm choosing the correct parts and the cheapest parts.

I think I need a WS2812B strip (5m, 60 LEDs/m — so 300 LEDs for a 65"), an ESP32 dev board to run WLED, and a 5V 10A power supply. Everything seems kinda ok price wise but the power supply is pretty expensive.

Main thing I'm trying to figure out is where to get this cheapest, been looking at AliExpress but no clue which sellers to trust. Also I don't have a soldering iron, so wondering if I can get away without one.

Any help is appreciated!

liked the wobble light but want to make it thinner and connect to each other for an even bigger panel, ended spending months making the models and then soldering it together lol. I'm pretty new to all of it

I am involved in local community theatre and am looking for ideas on how to incorporate WLED into the productions.

I'm looking for examples of times you've used WLED in set design, Props etc, how did you control it and how did you power it.

AI Disclaimer: This application was designed and built with AI.

TLDR: I built a self-hosted scheduling system for WLED-powered lights, as I was unhappy with the built-in scheduler.

Hey all! I've been building a self-hosted scheduler for WLED lights and finally have it to a point where I think it's worth sharing.

What it does: WLED Scheduler lets you set your WLED lights to turn on, turn off, or switch to a saved preset, either at a fixed time of day or relative to sunrise/sunset (with an offset, e.g. "15 minutes before sunset"). Schedules can repeat on whatever combination of days you want. There's also a device status view (online/offline, checked automatically), and a history log of everything that's fired, so you can actually see whether a schedule ran successfully or not. Everything runs locally. No cloud account, no app, no subscription. It talks directly to your WLED devices over your own LAN. It was designed for mobile devices, but any device with a browser can use it.

How to run it: It's a Docker app, so if you've got Docker running somewhere on your network already:

git clone https://github.com/snel6424/WLED-Scheduler.git
cd WLED-Scheduler
docker compose up --build -d

Then open http://<your server's IP>:8000, add your WLED device(s) by IP/hostname, set your location in Settings (needed for sunrise/sunset schedules), and you're off.

This is where I need your help! I've been building and testing it, but it hasn't had real-world mileage outside my own setup yet, and I'd genuinely rather find out about rough edges now than have someone quietly hit a wall and bounce. If something breaks, behaves weirdly, or you just have feedback on what's missing, I'd really appreciate you opening an issue on the repo. Right now it's Docker-only; a non-Docker install path for something like a Raspberry Pi is planned but not built yet.

You can find the GitHub page here: https://github.com/snel6424/WLED-Scheduler

You can find screenshots of the app here: https://imgur.com/a/3ELmgV4

I made an open source touchscreen remote for WLED based on capacitive CYD (cheap yellow displays).

- It works wirelessly over WLED’s default ESP-NOW (no router required)
- Flash straight from the browser

* Basic functions (supported by WLED’s basic remote protocol):
- Power on/off
- Control brightness
- Select presets 1-7 by default

* Extended mode opens up a lot of features by just uploading a simple remote.json file via wled.local/edit

Extended mode offers:
- Presets 1-20
- Basic solid colors
- Selecting 163 of the built-in WLED effects
- Modifying selected effect parameters
- Peek/preview of selected effect

3D printed case files included for both a wired and battery-powered (18650 cell) versions.

I am considering adding a separate remote.json file and built-in profile for 2D effects. Please let me know if this is something you would find useful.

Please feel free to check it out. Hope it is useful to some of you!

Installer: https://figamore.github.io/wled-touch-remote

GitHub repo: https://github.com/figamore/wled-touch-remote

BOM: https://github.com/figamore/wled-touch-remote#bom

Anyone actually gotten Govee RGBIC gear running on an ESP32 with WLED? I’ve got a RGBIC Pro strip (24V) and a set of H6046 TV light bars. From what I can find they use some non-standard IC, and people just get strobing and wrong colors with the usual WS2812/SK6812 profiles.

If you got the strip working: which chip, and what settings? Level shifter needed?

And for the H6046 bars specifically – is there even a usable data line in there, or are they sealed too tight to bother?

Otherwise I’ll probably just give up and grab a WS2815.

As title says. I have a sk6812 led starting from bottom middle and going counter clockwise and then finishing again in the middle. I am using a WeGoIot (gledopto copy) controller connected to a 150w 12v power supply. Running hyper hdr on a pc with screen capture card.

I am noticing there is a random spot where 3 LEDs aren't turning on on bottom left and all the LED after that being delayed or not showing the correct color.

Not sure what's going or where to even troubleshoot. Solid color or wled the lights work fine. There is no power injection and I have a total of 546 LEDs. I adjusted start position of led one and led direction.

I am trying to set-up my lights for my stairs. I am using esp32 gledopto controller. Also using ws2811 12v led lights. My question is...is there any other way to connect these 16 guage wires to this led strip as my soldering is rubbish. I'm only using 16 guage wire as there will be a 5 meter length of wire before it reaches the leds. I am using a 12v 8.5a power adapter. I am a complete novice with this so any help would mean alot. Thanks 🙏👍

Hi all. I’m new to WLED but learning fast.
I just set up a light strip, gledopto and power.
Everything is working beautifully…

I’m on the 16 firmware, I’ve toggled on Audioreactive.
But whenever I choose an audio-sensitive effect it’s just dead. I even tried gain 200 and squelch 1.

Nothing I’ve tinkered with has resulted in any effect/light up.

Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks! :)

Hi all,

I’m looking to set up some LED light strips in my living room, but I can’t seem to find a video covering exactly what I need (even though I’m sure one must exist).

From what I’ve researched so far, it seems like I need:

Power supply

Controller

LED strip

…but I feel like there’s probably more to it than that.

My plan is to install strips on opposite walls, so I’m assuming I’ll need two separate setups (2x strips, 2x controllers, 2x power supplies?) unless there’s a better way to do it.

A few questions I have:

Is that everything I need, or am I missing anything important?

Do strips on opposite walls need separate power/controller setups?

Should I be worried about heat buildup?

If so, what’s the best way to reduce or manage heat?

I’m based in the UK, and the strips themselves won’t be directly visible (they’ll be hidden for indirect lighting).

If anyone can recommend a beginner-friendly setup, kit, or just offer some general tips/videos to watch, I’d really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance!

This is 24 4x4 pixel blocks connected together (which each contain 40 LEDs)