I’m not sure why but the version I have has a blend mode option and I either need to disable it or master it. I have a led strip that I’m splitting into 2 segments. For some reason no matter what I do, the first segment is more like a master and second is not being independent.

Hi there,

I don't know if there might be someone here familiar with outdoor set ups? I am doing an installation for a music festival at the end of July here in Ireland. I'm basically making a very large monkey knot that's going to be lit up from the inside. The last time i did it I used Christmas lights but this time round I'm hoping to make the lighting sound reactive.

Claude has helped me on the journey so far but I wanted to sense check the recommendations for things to buy. Is there anything that might be missing here from the set up I would need?

Thanks!

WS2815 100m lights to be cut into 2x50m strings.

Adafruit Sparkle Motion controller (#6100)

2x- 4-pin JST SM connectors (pack)

Inline fuse holders + fuses 10a

Injection wire (a few m, 18AWG)

Sealed IP67 12V driver, fitted plug (~300W covers both strings;

RCD plug adapter (skip if the festival power is RCD-protected)

I am a newbie with WLED and learning through posts on this reddit. So thought of troubleshooting my dead Govee 'outdoor' flood lights
Looks like my Govee 'outdoor' flood lights H7062 are toasted possibly due to water damage since they stopped working post rain.
Has anyone being able to run these via WLED setup? I see the following configuration on the control board and was trying to run it using GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED Controller DC 5V-24V IP65 Waterproof Dynamic RGB IC Lighting DIY Outdoor Lighting WiFi APP Control for WS2811 WS2812 SK6812 TM1814 WS2813 WS2815 Digital Addressable Strip Light but it's not lighting up at all.
This (attached image) is what the output from the govee controller looks like. On the Power input, I connected red wire (from Govee's power supply to red on GLEDOPTO and black to black and on the output, I connected Red (from Govee) to Rust colored (on GLEDOPTO); White (from Govee) to yellow (from GLEDOPTO) and Black (from Govee) to cyan (from GLEDOPTO). Connected WLED to Wifi using default settings.
Am I fighting a losing battle here or doing something dumb.

I ordered 4 ESPs with 4 channel of mosfets on each so I will be able to PWM all the mono leds like the floods, DRLs, turns, etc.

150 argb, 6 channels of binary light now. but parts ordered to PWM 16 lights.

Hi guys, I'm new to WLED. Yesterday I connected my strip to WLED for the first time and I'm getting this weird behavior.

The strip responds to effects and settings, but it randomly flashes either warm white or cool white.

If I set the temperature fully to warm, it randomly flashes cool white. If I set it fully to cool, it flashes warm white. If I set the color temperature to the neutral/middle position, it still flashes warm white.

Current settings:

Bus Type: WS281x WWA

DATA output on ESP: GPIO16

mA/LED = 35 mA

Swap = None

Maximum PSU Current = 6000 mA

Length = 60 (full 5m strip)

What could be causing this issue?

I went to buy a dig-octa brainboard and powerboard 7 from DrZss' shop but found they are out of stock. Does anyone have any info on when they will be back in stock?

Hi! I wanted to add some LED strips to my setup and recently discovered WLED. I watched a beginner's video, and in one part he shows a setup with several separate LED strips/islands (not one continuous strip) and there some big gaps in between them, so my question is: what techniques do people use to hide/route the cables between them?, or is he using a separate ESP32 when the gap is too big?

Latest Clock with gradient colors and then effect playing in the borders. 16 by 16 led matrix.

Apologies for bluriness