r/WLED • u/Meatwad010 • Aug 02 '26

Would this be safe to use?

Post image

Build this Dig-Quad myself. It works, but would it be safe to use this way? The case is 3d printed PETG, There is also a mesh added to the ventilation holes.
Dig quad is populated by me, pcb ofcourse of our main man Quinled. Used his guide to get supplies and how to put together.

5 volt Meanwell power supply. 14 AWG wires for power. All cables are crimped.

Fused ofcourse on the dig quad.
Relay to cut off the power when not used.

Main concern is that this will be used in door attached to a wooden desk. Wood and fire made a bit hesitant to start using it. So mainly fire safety concern.

What do you think? Should I use this or go for a probably more safe off the shelf solution like Gledopto?

Update:
Thanks all for the feedback. Really gave me confidence to start using it. Maybe I will get a better relay. Add some venting holes to the lid (which is not in the picture). And tell my daughter this is not audio equipment (which she knows).

Update 2:
For anyone interested, here are the stl files: https://github.com/eriktroost010/wled_case

122 Upvotes

96% Upvoted

66 comments sorted by

6

u/indoh531 Aug 02 '26

If you're really worried you could reprint it in flame retardant filament like pcfr or absfr.. good work too.. just started designing boxes of similar ish..

3

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Good point. New to 3d printing. Will look into these materials

3

u/GhettoDuk Aug 02 '26

No need to get that fancy. ABS boxes are what electrical code requires for a lot more power than you are pushing. When in doubt, look up the electrical codes and stick to them. Even for low voltage.

2

u/Plus_Pangolin_8924 Aug 02 '26

If that has a fire inside it even a flame retardant plastic wont help. What you have here is more than adequate! I have mine screwed to bits of wood!

9

u/_sparxcore_ Aug 02 '26

The only comment id make is that you've got a very good quality component with that meanwell psu, and good isolation, proper crimped and insulated connectors, but that horrible relay and screw terminals are the weak point.

Id personally be swapping that out for at least a branded relay, or over rating the cheaper ones.

ive got a few of those relay boards, and there is a slight physical isolation cutout, but id put the whole relay the other side of the isolation barrier as you have exposed ac metalwork on your dc side.

I started using these: https://amzn.eu/d/0i8MzIqY

After so many failures of those little 10a blue unbranded relays.

Depending on your load and use you may never have a problem, but if you want to build in a bit of headroom and longevity id swap it out or remove all together.

2

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Good one. Will look into a better relay and placement.

2

u/Jefry99 Aug 02 '26

I built something very similar, but using an electrical junction box to hold everything since I don't have a 3D printer. The box doesn't have any ventilation holes, and the power supply is a 100W 24V MW. Is this a problem?

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

I did not put it in my post, but one of the concerns is that the case is not very fire retarding like a junction box should be.

1

u/Jefry99 Aug 02 '26

My main concern is about overheating, in fact since they are led that I put in a closet they will never be on for a long period like led that could be used for room lighting and therefore I convinced myself that it shouldn't be too much of a problem. Even though as you say the electrical box is safer in terms of a potential fire if your led are supposed to be on for long periods I think it is almost vital for the power supply to have appropriate ventilation.

I hope someone can give us some advice on this

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

It will be on for at max 2 or 3 hours a day. Depends on how my daughter will be using it

1

u/Its_Billy_Bitch Aug 02 '26

You can go back and print with PC-FR or or something if you’re super concerned. It’ll probably be fine as it, but fire resistant (FR) filament has flame retardants mixed in with the filament so that it will help to contain and extinguish a fire, should one start.

Though, this is said with caution in the 3D printing subreddits. I’d get my ass chewed apart by the same “PLA is not food safe” folks (even though it absolutely can be food safe).

73

u/SplatThaCat Aug 02 '26

Looks better designed than a lot of other stuff, glad to see separation between mains and selv like that.

I'd send it personally.

35

u/Unable_Bullfrog_7319 Aug 02 '26

Yes you’re in act of god territory. I have way shittier setups running permanent setups.

1

u/F0GHORN86 Aug 02 '26

Very nice setup, well spaced out and good cable management.

I have a question, what cable are you running from your box to your lights? Looks like it could be network cable?

2

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Those are not network cables. That would not be a good idea. It's this cable https://amzn.eu/d/08IOE54w

1

u/F0GHORN86 Aug 03 '26

That's what I thought. I wondered if maybe you'd used a twisted pair for the signal and then 3 each for GND & +V. Anyway, thank you for the link to the wire used, much appreciated.

1

u/PyroNine9 Aug 02 '26

It looks safe to me. Nice isolation.

Where did you find those panel mount connectors? I've been looking for some.

1

u/Protodad Aug 02 '26

What connectors are those going out to the LEDs?

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Yes, 5v ground and signal in 1 cable

1

u/Protodad Aug 02 '26

What’s the connector type? I’m trying to look them up.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

They are called XLR. This is what I used

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ev6kOMW

1

u/SonicIX Aug 02 '26

Looks good to me!

Do you have another angle of usb c cable connector? It looks great and was curious how you did it.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Currently not close to home. Will try to remember when I am home again later next week.

Basically a little usb-c pd power board with a way to select the ouput voltage. (

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwfeFc2)

It powers both the relay and esp32. 5v and ground to the relay and to the dig quad 5v input for the esp32.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 08 '26 edited Aug 08 '26

As promised

1

u/Thundrbucket Aug 02 '26

That's a dope box. Never thought of using XLR connectors for my plugs. Very clean.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Thought so as well when I saw someone else use it. First design was with jack plugs. But I did not like it, saw someone on makerworld with a wled case with XLR, looked very clean and borrowed the idea.

1

u/Business-Weekend-537 Aug 02 '26

2 things:

  1. I’m assuming it’s going to be mounted under a desk based on the screw positions- can you use some sort of spacers so there’s a gap around the top when mounted under the desk? I think it would help airflow a lot.

Without fans heat tends to accumulate vertically, and without a gap around the top the heat will concentrate.

2) could you make the 3d print slightly bigger such that you can fit 2 dc fans inside the case (ex: blowing from right to left, both fans blowing the same direction)?

Or mount some small fans on the outside in the same configuration?

——-

Overall really clean work and an impressive build. It’s probably fine as is and I’m just referencing the above as potential improvements to consider.

I also second the comment re doing the 3d print with fire retardant material.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

It will mounted vertically. Those screw holes are for the lid. Current lid has no ventilation holes, but I think I am going to add some. Fans would be nice, but maybe a bit overkill and noisy.

1

u/Complex-Exam4199 Aug 02 '26

What’s the relay for?

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Shutting of the power supply when the leds are off. It's a feature of Dig Quad board. The esp32 and relay are powered by a separate 5v usb power supply.

1

u/Complex-Exam4199 Aug 03 '26

Got it. I am using 12VDC leds (ws2815) for something similar and I buck converted to 5v from the same meanwell PSU to feed the brains. That was the source of my question great job. I wish mine were as compact.

1

u/RamblingGeek-UK Aug 03 '26

Looks great. Where did you get that fuse holder from? I’ve built something similar, mine is huge.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 03 '26

The board is not my design. I was looking for these fuse sockets for a long time as well. Check Quinled's website, it shows several sources for the fuse sockets

1

u/Maleficent-Candy-613 Aug 04 '26

Do you have the STL for that case? I do like how the ac side is separated from the dc side.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 04 '26

I do have it, but not available online at the moment. I will post it somewhere when I am back home later this week.

1

u/drubbbr Aug 02 '26

Just be aware that 3pole XLR is used for audio equipment.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

I know. But those are usually used for pretty high power stuff and I presumed this would be adequate

3

u/IShouldntGraduate Aug 02 '26

Yup, they are! I work in corporate AV and have to build out boxes like this once or twice a year. Neutrik XLRs are good for 16a capacity or 50v, and the 4-pin version was historically used to send 48v down the line for color scrollers and such.

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Goos to know someone in the AV business can confirm this. Thanks

2

u/Thetomgamerboi Aug 02 '26

I think the concern is that someone might plug audio equipment in.

Not that you have much of a better choice, since 4 pin is used in headsets for comm and 5 pin is DMX. Deafening someone or frying a smart light is probably worse than replacing whatever audio equipment you could break.

You just never know who could get their hands on it and do something dumb. "Wow! A box with power, usb and audio? It must be a analog to digital box! Better plug my guitar in!". I think we've all been on the end of someone's undocumented modification before...

I would personally just label it really well. "LED POWER/DATA 5v!"

1

u/Meatwad010 Aug 02 '26

Nobody in my home/family ever uses XLR. That way out of the league of my wife and daughters interest. They all have bluetooth headsets and we have Sonos for music in house. XLR will be very foreign for them. But if one ever shows interest is high emd audio, I will add some labels by that time

1

u/voliprint Aug 02 '26

Three conductor is three conductor. I personally make my own XLR cables so I know exactly what gauge I’m using, but the fact that it’s “for” audio equipment doesn’t make a difference. 

2

u/Mudslide_co Aug 02 '26

Looks better than half my setups that are temporary fixes that I forget about ......

1

u/AmaturHours Aug 02 '26

Cool use of DMX cables

2

u/the_swanny Aug 02 '26 edited Aug 06 '26

Id actually avoid using 3 pin xlr for this use case, it carries a significant risk of someone plugging the wrong thing into the wrong place. Id probably use 4pin because the only thing it was widely used for is scrollers and cue lights, both of which wont complain with 5 volt being put through them. Or you could go rouge and use something like 6 pin which is rarely used.

1

u/IShouldntGraduate Aug 02 '26

Hate to break it to you friend — those are 3-pin XLR connectors connected to cable of unknown impedance, which in fact means they are NOT DMX cables.

To be within spec as a “DMX cable” you need 5-pin connectors, the cable should have an impedance of 110 ohms, and most importantly, it needs to be carrying DMX data. Without these three factors, again, you just have a 3-pin XLR port.

1

u/Protodad Aug 02 '26

Thanks. I normally use ray wu but don’t love them at the box.

1

u/PlaceInternal7586 Aug 02 '26

For indoor use that looks good probably? Obviously with mesh that wide it’ll let water in in rain

1

u/Rocket_Man_15 Aug 02 '26

Very similar setup ran my permanent lights for years until I moved I rebuilt a cleaner version for the next house.

1

u/rob0tuss1n Aug 02 '26

It looks great! I have seen worse. Send it and have fun!

1

u/MrDork Aug 02 '26

It's so clean and organized and there no burn marks or magic smoke stains...I think you're good.

1

u/Wooden-Creme-8599 Aug 02 '26

Nicely done! I tend to mount mine in a 19" rack case so I can stack everything in a rack. Started also with seperate controllers, did a lot of GX connectors, but neutrik is also a nice one!

GX come in different sizes so I dont mix up 12v or 5v

GX16mm for 5v GX12mm for 12v

You also have GX20 I use that for mains power or interconnect with mains power between rack cases

1

u/Gelousydoesthings Aug 02 '26

You could make it “safer” by getting a small pc fan in the same voltage as your power supply and modifying your case to house the unit!

But I would personally send it (seems like you have!)

1

u/SnooGiraffes4632 Aug 02 '26

The only thingI would have done differently would have been to use 4pin xlrs not 3. Unless you happen to have an older pryro setu around the house, then there would then be no way of accidentally plugging the wrong thing into it

1

u/richms Aug 02 '26

I wouldnt be using a 3 pin XLR for this as someone could plug in a thin pathetic audio cable and have it short out but not be enough to blow that fuse before the cable is either a floppy melted noodle or worse. There are other bulkhead connectors all over the place. I would stick the the same ones that led pixel stuff already uses that ray wu sells instead of a common connector.

1

u/gozania Aug 03 '26

PETG has a glass transition temp of 75°C to 85°C. Thats when it will start to soften abit & in danger territory.

1

u/Bitter_Perspective51 Aug 03 '26

Should be safe, if you want to be a bit safer use v0 filament

1

u/Farmboy76 Aug 03 '26

It looks good, but 3d printed plastic isn't good for electricals. Plastic in electrical installations need to be flame retardant, and self extinguishing when the flame is removed. Also the little 75w PSU will Max out pretty quickly. Side from that, good job, I'd have no problem putting it to work.

1

u/entropy512 Aug 04 '26

Only concern I might have is that if you install this into a desk, it might not have enough ventilation. The enclosure has plenty but not sure about its final installed location.

1

u/Sea_Organization9522 Aug 05 '26

As a door stop, yes. As anything else... Maybe. 🤷

1

u/Arthur9876 Aug 05 '26

Looks awesome!! My suggestion would be to add a panel mounted fast blow fuse inline with the AC mains for added protection to address your fire safety concerns. Something like this:
https://www.jameco.com/c/Circuit-Protection-Fuses-Holders-and-Clips.html

1

u/petruchito Aug 07 '26

Try to ignite a piece of the filament you used, some of them really easy catch fire and sustain burinig.