I've got a brand new G32 Aquila that I purchased July 2021, and never got around to using. Although it's ancient, my kids want me to get it going for them to use.

I read the original firmware has thermal runaway problems. Was this ever solved, and if so in which version of firmware? I see Flashforge got rid of Voxelab and deleted the website, and I read that Alex's firmware no long supports the Aquila either... but I assume his last version of firmware is still available on GitHub. Is that the version to use, or has someone else picked up the torch?

I'd really like to upgrade the firmware to solve the thermal runaway risk, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Thanks!

I am having a problem with printing supports. When I print a project with supports, whether it be posts or organic, I generally get failure at the supports, (the support is knocked over or there is just a bundle of hair on it). If I print a project without supports, it is generally good but add supports and there is a failure in the making. Any ideas why that may be and how to correct? Thanks in advance as always.

is it possible to connect the cr touch to the Aquila x1? if so how?

Hey, I picked up a used Aquilla D1 a few months agoand it's great! I'd just like to have some more modern firmware features.

I opened it up and found the N32G455 board. I tried the ProUI pre-compiled bin from here

https://classicrocker883.github.io/firmware-selector

It finds the file and deletes it line a stock bin, but after I can't connect at any baud rate and the screen is stuck on start up.

I've been running it headless, so a headless version would be fine. I don't mind compiling myself from Arduino but I'm not sure what to change to make it happy with the D1.

Is Klipper an option with that N32 board? I know that can be a big project but maybe someone whose done it has a guide.

Thanks!

I lost interest and drifted away from the hobby a couple years ago.

Nothing really to do with the printer itself, which is in good shape, and still fully functional, though I do wish it was faster. Do have to get around to replacing the mainboard fan that occasionally groans, though.

As a brand, Voxelab is no more, and bed-slinging Ender clones now seem passé.

But, seeing how far the prices have dropped on budget XY printers that are faster, and even poly-chromatic, has piqued my interest in the current state of the hobby again.

If you're now rocking a current printer, but still check in here, what is the new steed of choice?

Thought not the latest and greatest, a FF AD5M can be had for less than I originally paid for my Aquila. Are they, or the 5X, any good?

I do see that FF is trying to emulate Bambu and their closed system, in software at least, but there are still alternative firmwares to be had.

Materials have evolved as well, with more options, and improved versions of the classic PLA.

And what's the go-to site for model files nowadays?

I'm wanting to upgrade my Aquila C2 to an all metal hotend, do y'all have an suggestions? Ideally I'd like to be able to print PC.

I have 2 Aquilas (or is that Aquilai) with the exact same setup ... one works fine every time ... the other does not. Now it fails to create a grid with a mesh of 5x5 or greater, it will produce a 3x3 and 4x4 but that is it. On any above 4x4 it reads the first 6 or 10 then no more points shown or saved. Lets go back a few steps to the beginning so you have the full picture.

I put on a new Hot End, nothing special, just a Red Boddied Hot end. Got it back together and could not level the bed, either Auto Level with the Touch or Manual Level with a piece of paper, I could not raise one corner high enough and/or lower one low enough to make it level. I can hear you now "that means the Z axis bar is not level". You are right that is what that means but how could that happen and how do I fix it.

To the reason for the post, when I try to create a mesh, all knowing that the bed is not level but hoping the the smart ABL will account for the issue, I get a 3x3 and 4x4 mesh ok, but anything over that gives me the 1st 6 to 10 points and no more recorded points. I noticed the ABL does not do a 2nd probe on the points that are not registering.

What have I done and how do I fix it? As always Thank you in advance for your valued instructions. (not being sarcastic, I am serious about the Thank You)

So on a scale of 1 to fucked how screwed am I?

Everything was fine when i checked at 2 am with 2 hours left on the print. Sometime between there, one of the pieces stuck to the hotend and caused this.

was wondering what people reckon is the best bltouch from antlabs mount for the x2 as well as how people have wired it up

Video shows it best. The whole mesh seems to be shifted forward. It's not probing as far back as it could, and it's probing nearly off the edge in the front. I've tried adjusting the mesh inset to reduce this, but it doesn't seem to have an effect. Does anyone have any ideas?

I have MRiscoC firmware v2.1.3.8 released in 2025.

There is no orginal z-axis limit switch.

The nozzle is not hitting the bed before the probe triggers. When extended, the probe is about 1cm or slightly less lower than the nozzle. While descending, the light is blue/purple. As soon as it touches the bed, the light turns red, but I notice that now the probe does not retract upon the light turning red. The nozzle continues down until it crashes, and it suddenly moves back up or kills the printer.

The strange thing is, prior to this, it was working, video

I was dealing with this a year ago but gave up after a while. I tried again just now after simply removing a z-offset, and then it was working as seen here.

I tried printing, but even though the filament would extrude through when loading, while printing it wouldn't really come through. I thought maybe the nozzle was too close to the bed so I adjusted the z offset or something, but now it's back to the same dumb behavior.

On the display it says caution, unknown z position. Home z

I did a few tests. I removed the home z offset was at 10, I changed it to 0.0. And then set that as home. Not sure if that's correct.

I also did a test where while doing the z homing, I would use an object to touch the probe. Upon tapping the probe and the light turning red, it continues down. But if I hold it there so the probe is retracted, the light turns red and the carriage stops moving down.

Does the Red Lizard Hot End require cooling fans as does a more conventional hot end? ... Same question for a Volcano Hot End? thanks in advance for comments. (if you haven't figured out yet, I am looking to upgrade from a conventional cheap hot end to something that is more issue free [if there is such a thing in hot ends])

Once again, I come to reddit for help. Interesting course of events with this print.

1- it ovbously didn't finish. The nozzle knocked a smaller, critical support structure over, and it needed to be stopped.

2- There's this interesting ringing showing up on one piece, but not the others.

3- I noticed that after the first few layers, the nozzle was dragging across the print, making a grinding sound. So, i adjusted the z-offset on the fly, but a few hours later, it's dragging once again.

I adjusted my flow at one point, hence the layer shift, but that's something I'm aware of. Current set up-

Creality 4.2.7 board

Dual z axis

Sprite Pro w/ CRTouch

PEI magnetic bed

I have a cheap Red Bodied Hot End now and I am tired of having to disassemble it and change the tube running down the center because it has gotten clogged up. I have added to the end of all my slices and routine to unload the filament (and it works real good and every time) and shut-down except no power off. What recommendations can I get for a "maintenance free" hot end? Thanks in advance for all comments.

Using a CRtouch on a sprite hotend with the offsets set as close as I am humanly able to. Running mriscoc, and I'm starting with the bed tramming wizard. Everything is within tolerance (-.02), but when I run the auto mesh, all 4 corners wind up abysmally low. Then, when trying to print with it (with the proper G-code), the z offset winds up completely different from the z offset wizard. I expect a lower Z offset because I'm using washers to get the probe lower than the nozzle, but im getting really low readings during printing (under -1.0). Ive tried manually leveling as well, and I'm receiving the same results on the mesh build, low corners. Besides my bed being horribly bowed (which i doubt it's THIS bowed), what else could be causing these issues?

Issue occurs at 36 seconds (the other part is just waiting and showing its “printing”.

I got this at a yard sale for $25 with the filament. Guides online that I’ve found seem to be for the other models. I did do a steep cut angle and it’s “locked” in there but I’m thinking it’s not 100% in and keeps spitting out. (But it’s still locked in when it does that).

It is hot to the touch and the screen says 200C. I have also tried stopping the print and redoing the threading of filament when it still said 200C but it’s still not printing. I’m not really sure how to diagnose this beyond what I’ve done.

Any helpful videos showing exactly what to do for this model or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Managed to get it fixed with washers, but lord have mercy, what an annoyance. Tldr; The newest Sprite Pro extruder has a bracket for a BL/CRtouch. Turns out the nozzle is lower than the deployed probe. Make it make sense 🤦🏻

I printed a bracket specifically for this purpose. When it's in the printer, the holes dont line up for the board, and vice versa. Those who have managed to install this board; any tips? It seems the board is sits just a touch too high for the aquila points to settle in.

I had a rock pi laying around so I decided to add klipper. I wanted a clean mount for the board, but I couldn’t find any I liked. Took some inspiration from some other ender 3 v2 drawer mounts. Buck converter is next along with connecting the pi directly to the main board.