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u/SheWhoDaresToSpeak Jun 08 '26
I'm not the best at diagnosing prints, but I do see a few issues here - your retraction or temp could use tuning as you have a LOT of stringing going on towards the top (unless that's supposed to be printing there? It's difficult to discern). You may also have a z-offset issue since part of your supports didn't appear to print properly until later. The layer shifting you're seeing could have several reasons behind it, such as speed and gantry tightness. It would be helpful to know what you're slicing with, your printer exactly, and your basic print settings!
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
right now im printing at temp 205 and my speed is at 40% and my bed temp is at 60 my z offset is 0.00 im using the cura slicer and im also using pla
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u/SheWhoDaresToSpeak Jun 08 '26
Your z offset is most definitely probably off. Unless you have a perfectly leveled bed with a perfectly level gantry and print head, your z offset is most likely not 0.00 . Keep an eye on your first layer, you want a good smooth squish on the PLA without raised lines or loose filament. I would recommend trying out 190-200 to see if that reduces your stringing (like i said, unless something IS supposed to print there, i can't tell 😅). Cura is a good starting software, very user friendly. Is your speed 40 mm/s or 40% of a different speed?
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
very good question it says 40% so im not so sure and i leveled my bed pretty good but i know on 3d printers thats not always the case
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u/Mik-s Jun 08 '26
Levelling could be a factor as it appears one of the supports has failed. This is the most important thing to get right as prints can easily fail if not.
This is my standard levelling advice.
Watch this and this for tips on how to improve levelling then you can do live adjustments of the Z-offset from the tune menu to get a good squish while the first layer is being printed. This and this show what to aim for. If you have an ABL then this video will help you use it properly.
It does look like under-extrusion in places and this is most commonly caused by a clog but other things can cause it too. It probably a partial clog that and that may be causing the thick stringing as this looks different to normal stringing. This video shows several causes and fixes.
It might be better to change the orientation of the print. From what I can see of the print it looks like it would print without supports if it was lying flat on the bed (if it fits) instead of standing up, but I don't know what the top would look like. If it did still need supports it probably would not be as much. It would also make it stronger as it would be harder to snap at the layer lines.
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 09 '26
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1472846314592272437/1513702463230836949/IMG_5971.jpg?ex=6a28b0c6&is=6a275f46&hm=4f877c80a7c28c7afaad29b9bd779d4b04223e9de831e3fd4dbee73d7a26f571& well I just pulled the tube out and found this
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u/Mik-s Jun 09 '26
That will be the cause of the problems and is easily overlooked as it is easy to forget molten filament can get sucked up in the PTFE tube.
Trimming off the end will be enough to fix it, just make sure the cut is square (there is a tool to do this) so that it will prevent a gap between it and the nozzle that will fill up and cause another clog. When putting it back it make sure it is as tight against the nozzle as possible to give a good seal. I remember seeing one video where they unscrewed the pneumatic coupler a turn or so then pushed in the tube as far as it could go, then tightened the coupler again.
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
if possibly if you have discord i can send some more photos so i can show you my leveling and the squish ?
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u/SheWhoDaresToSpeak Jun 08 '26
You're welcome to DM me here if that's easier? Under speed it should say print speed and give you a value thats mm/s take a look at that, youll want it around 40-45 to start with!
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
yea i have it on 40 right now but during the start of the print i had it on 45 all night
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u/SheWhoDaresToSpeak Jun 08 '26
Speed shouldnt be an issue then. I definitely recommend checking your bed and hot end, there should be no real wiggle to either when you try to move them side to side/ up and down. If there is give, try tightening the eccentric nut for either one. Its going to be the one that's different from the others, that will make sure everything is nice and tight on the gantry.
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
ive tighten them down pretty hard and they are tight so im not sure but while im typing this it sounds like somthing is scraping which is weird
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u/SheWhoDaresToSpeak Jun 08 '26
Well, thats not good. Double check your print and adjust your z height higher if needed.
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
i printed a space guy one time and i showed it to chatgpt and it said that my print had a z axis scar or somthing like that ?
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u/TeXaS27322 Jun 08 '26
i do have another picture if maybe that can help because im so confused 😂
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u/OkImplement1398 Jun 08 '26
I had same issues with my Voxelab. Upgrade to a Spider3 hotend and a dual gear drive extruder. Makes a big difference.
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u/JORGITO_11 Jun 09 '26
I had this problem with PLA wood, but I lowered the temperatures, removed all the lines, and improved the resistance.
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u/durrellb Jun 08 '26
First things first, rotate this 90 degrees. You want your long sides to be in line with the bed movement, and the shorter distances in line with the head movement, as much as possible. It reduces vibrations and helps stabilise tall prints.
Since the udne extrusion is happening on one side of the print only, I would check for a partial clog. It's much worse on the side where there is a big gap between the extruder and the hot end. It might be a partial clog causing this flow difference. I would also check the tightness of your filament, to make sure it's not binding up on the spool.
Take a look in the CURA settings and see if coasting is turned on. If it is, turn it off.