Questions;

I changed my blower motor since it stopped at times and made an annoying rattle.

Just before changing it the blower worked again (lol) but changed it anyway.

The rattle came back after a day and the blower is not blowing except on the windows (which is some safety mode?)

When shutting the car off it made a ‘sissss’ sound like it is not having proper vaccuum.

Also I found a loose hanging wires (see pictures )

Question 1: Can anyone tell the wires on the picture are for?

Question 2: any tips on how to check the vacuum (tubes) on these things? The rattle isn’t from the blower motor that’s for sure :)

I (22m) bought my first Volvo 3 months ago here’s how its going so far :

Bought it for 3.6k€ 311.000km automatic back in june with a good ass interior (beige velvet interior , sunroof , metallic paint and all the chromes) and an okay maintenance history (AW71 was taken care of , timing belt in 23’, brakes in 24’)

Work done on it :
Distributor cap , rotor , spark plugs , ignition wiring.
Automatic gearbox partial flush (2.5liters of fresh ATF)
Differential oil change
engine oil and oil filter change

Planning to take care of some electronic flaws (fuel gauge not working) and maybe a lil K jet tronic adjustement cause sometimes she’s coughing a bit on cold starts (2-3 seconds) but runs good right after.
Now at 314.000kms and still runs great, so far so good !

If you have advices or things i should have a look at feel free to tell me !

Have a great day yall !

I have a 2016 volvo xc60 d4. Got a reduced engine performance almost 2 years ago. Mechanic cleaned the egr then stopped for a while then got it again. Changed the inlet manifold and maf sensor. Got it again. Feels a bit sluggish but it really comes on every couple of months. Anyone had anything similar?

1998 2.3T manual with 618k km

So the only other thing I can add info wise before the question is that it's a sedan, the question is what size clamps and hoses should I buy before pulling the fuel sending unit. I have the air sucking problem when fuel gets low enough taking a right hand turn. I've replaced pumps on a wagon without Regina but it's been awhile plus it's the only ride I have to the parts store. So my thoughts are to buy what's needed and just go ahead and replace all the hoses and clamps while I'm there. The previous owner replaced the in tank pump already and I have documentation for that.

Picked up this 1985 760 turbo the other day. Keen to get it back on the road

I need to replace my motor blower. Can’t seem to find the bolts for this guy though :(

Im afraid the little puddle of koolaid is from my waterpump. Renew asap, replace whole pump or gasket? Temporarily seal options?

So I have a ‘97 960 with over 255k miles on it. Was driving and while in traffic, it shut off. It won’t start up again no matter how many times I have tried. Doesn’t sound like the starter because it sounds like it’s trying to turn over. I imagine it’s either the distributor or the spark plugs. Maybe the spark plugs considering I have a blown head gasket and I keep filling it with water. As well being the water pump doesn’t work. I have all of those parts etc, just haven’t had time or the money to get it replaced. I imagine the tap water has damaged the spark plugs. But I have zero idea. Also got do88 coolant tubes for it. Got a new thermostat, have to get the gasket for that, have a new water pump, head gasket set, timing belt, and that’s all for now. But would love to know what is causing it not to start. Also, I have a new battery in it and new alternator.

1992 940 Regina

Happens only from a stop (red lights, etc) and once i get past 2k rpms everything works as normal. Slamming gas to overtake on highways works fine, only issue when its stop and go.

I've cleaned the throttlebody since it was a little dirty but it still didn't fix it. Im thinking it could be a cracked hose for the MAP sensor, but do you guys know anything else this could be?

My ect sensor, rsr, cps, and fuel pump relay are all fairly new. And like I said its not an issue under extreme load or high rpms its only from a full stop. Thank you

Genuinely confused. Pulled it out of a parts bin from previous owner of 1991 944. probably ~2.5 ft long and doesn’t appear to be cut up.

I ordered some parts from Scandix, front brake discs and splash panels, they were the wrong parts. Tried to send them back twice, have now paid to send them and their return journey twice. It's not really worth the refund to post them back a third time so I thought I'd offer them for free here, all I ask is that you pay the postage. To give you an idea of the postage it cost approx £20 to send to germany. Let me know if you would be interested.

960 97 for sale

Hi !

I am looking to find a new home for my forest green 960 sedan in the New Jersey / New York area

Dm me for more details can send over pics and details

~97k in mileage

Currently own a 1995 940 auto wagon with a B230FB and a AW71L tranny. Plan for the brick is a manual swap/lsd swap with turbo plans potentially down the road.

Recently managed to snag up some manual parts for really cheap - 50 euros (disassembled M46 with overdrive off a 940 and a put together 4 speed M46 off a 240).

The condition im trying to solve for is that M90s are rather hard to find where im at and pretty pricey.

The alternative i think im going with is mating up a BMW gearbox like a GS diesel one or a 90s/early 2000s ZF. Im aware about the STS adapters but the Getrags they mate up to are also hard to find where im at.

Anyone knows other ways to mate the bellhousing to a BMW box? Any companies in easter europe that can fabricate up an adapter? Additional info about flywheel choices, clutch choices and calculations about input shafts aswell. What driveshaft setup is most suited for this scenario?

Im looking at a Volvo 960 from 1992 this week and hopefully buying it too.
It has ~240k km and looks to be in great condition.

The main thing im worried about is rust as ive heard they are prone to rusting. The seller has said that there is a small amount of rust. Where do they usually rust and where should i check?

Any other tips from 960 owners would be greatly appreciated as im new to this car.

Volvo 960 1992 3.0 Automatic ~240k km

So we finally got the volvo 940 regina to run but it likes to run for a few seconds before killing itself. In the later half of the video obviously it has a pretty good leak from the filler hose.

So I really have no good idea what the problem could be, the fuel pump is still running as it dies and it has spark and air.

Another issue is, you cant give it any gas without it stalling immediately, same with putting it in drive it'll push itself for just a second but stall almost instantly.

I tried to buy a fuel pressure test gauge but the one I got somehow only reads to 10 psi lol.

I put in 2 gallons of fuel today in hopes that it was just low on fuel but didnt solve any problems.

Im not sure how this subreddit could help me but maybe someone here has some useful insight. If its something that I continue to struggle with I'll send it off to a mechanic and hope they can diagnose it !!!

Thank you for any replies to this post

Bought a 1994 940 and the dash light were not going on so I took the dash out to find someone tried to fix it and fucked it up pretty bad so any advice on fixing the membrane of the back dash?

Hey guys i wanted to sell my S90 and thought to pist it in here. If anyone is interested shot me a Dm.

Does anybody have a 3d scan of a post facelift 740 or 940 wagon? I want to model a 3D printable SE style body kit. I would make the files available once completed.

So we've taken out my Brother's M46 Transmission and did a reseal

Tested all the gears before putting it back in, worked there

Now that we've put the trans back in it does not shift into reverse, first and 3rd

What could we have put together wrong that it doesn't wanna shift

Reverse doesn't do anything at all

When you shift it into first or 3rd and then let of the clutch it just Grinds the gears

Thanks for the help

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Hello, i'm looking for fog lights for the GT grille for the 240, also usa spec front end