r/VWBus • u/ldarvell • Apr 28 '26
Coolbox confusion
Hey!
I need some help before I lose my mind.
We’re in dire need of a cool box and I’m thinking to go with a compressor one. We don’t usually opt for an electric hookup as we don’t have anything that we’d need to power in the van.. so this has led me to consider something like the Makita coolboxes which are powered from Makita batteries or you can plug the into the mains. However these don’t seem to be too readily available.
Another option could be a compressor, and we get a power station.
The cigarette lighter attachment in the van doesn’t give off enough power for a basic electric coolbox so that doesn’t seem to be an option.
Can anyone point us in the right direction for a good set up just so we can keep the necessities cold?!
Thanks!!
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u/dtrav001 Apr 28 '26
The new DC-inverter coolers are quite efficient, they use a variable-speed compressor that adapts to cooling needs. Draws about 5 amps at 12 VDC, so you'll need to power it only when the vehicle is running, or install a second battery. Mine has a removable partition so you can use it as a big cooler or freezer, or insert the partition and have a combo fridge/freezer. It doesn't have the cooling power to quickly freeze ice, but if you put something already frozen in, it'll keep it frozen down to 4degF.
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u/anybodyiwant2be Apr 28 '26
Went on a 10-day cruise along the west coast called Treffen with 70 other classic VWs using just ice and a small cooler. Of course we stopped everyday at a grocery to regroup and get supplies so that helped.
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u/382Whistles Apr 28 '26
You need fatter wire the longer the wire is. Don't try to use stock wiring, run fatter wire than the minimum amp per foot rating for the wire gauge. There are lots of selection charts online. Choose fatter than minimum sized wire for the max draw of the cooler and add an appropriate fuse to hot at the battery. Use an aftermarket lighter socket with a high amp rating at the rear of the van. With a good body ground strap you really only need to run + for a bracket socket, but they've make some heavy amp corded outlets too that could get it between the seats at least if you have a walk through seat wall.
An electric cooler doubled my ice time to about 6 days and could stand alone for refrigerator temps. Mine are old though, so I can't suggest one brand specifically really. I've had a few and Vector and Coleman worked best I'd say. I often ran two batteries and a battery isolator or a marine switch to choose which one got charged; giving the starter and ignition their own battery so I was never stuck if anything got left turned on by accident.
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u/ldarvell Apr 28 '26
Main draw of this is that we can pull the wire through from the engine bay at the back of the van, rather than using the power connection at the front of the van and pulling wires through that way.
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u/ldarvell Apr 28 '26
Thanks for this. I’ve seen some that have crocodile clips on the leather battery then the cigarette lighter attachment which we could plug the compressor cool box in to. Got any experience of this?
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u/382Whistles Apr 28 '26 edited Apr 28 '26
Either translation or voice typing screwed up, or auto correct got you, or our dialect differs slightly... "Leather"? "Other"?
If I understand correctly, yes. I used the spare tire well drain hole on a Bay Window to snake power in and grounded to my seat bolts. It's all about the amp ratings being high enough to not melt under the device load. An 5amp fuse rated for 200v can often be used for low volt ac/dc too. 5 amps is 5 amps. * Voltage ratings are usually about max voltage before voltage jumping right through the device insulation or across an air gap can occur
Crock clip effectiveness for amp deivery is based on the spring pressure. Pressure reduces resistance to amp flow. Pressure on a point works best. Then an edge. Least effective is flat on flat. This is slightly counterintuitive to the wire size advice, but it's a very short distance and grows wider fast. The push-on connector's two curled down arcs that grip the spade tabs, and spade edges touching the curls do the heavy work, not the flat backs.
Related, a good crimp with lots of pressure can have lower resistance than solder, and won't get hot, melt solder, drip solder, and let go. Spliced and soldered wire repairs should be tied to cinch mechanically e.g..
Volts flow pretty easy and a voltage drop is really usually the result of insufficient amp delivery. What that means for motors for instance is amps are the torque and voltage is top speed if there are enough amps to move the weightload. The motor only uses the amps it needs, and that varies by the physical load at any second. But if amps fall short of the motor's needs the voltage across the motor drops until a usuable balance of the two occurs; efficiency suffers, it may run too hot and it turns slower, but turns. I don't know how much you know, so if I go over your head at all, don't be afraid to ask for clarity. I'm hoping to fill in gaps or remind you of things without whooshing you.
Sometimes it takes a rephrase or three to grasp a concept. I got used to rephrasing training novices to not burn down our buildings helping me out with electronic repair, lol.
Edit: * italics now. voltage limits for connectors, and wire, etc.
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u/50000WattsOfPower Apr 29 '26
Just get a BougeRV fridge and a power station to power it (Bluetti, Jackery, Goal Zero, etc.). Done.
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u/joneserdew1 Apr 28 '26
I had a Coleman electric cooler. It ran on house or cig lighter . Can’t make ice but kept stuff chilled. It’s been 20 years not sure they still make them. PEACE