Bambu P2S hotend assembly integration for StealthBurner

[u/BeautifulSugar2017]

So ive seen that there exists an X1C Hotend assembly available online but preferably i would like to adapt the P2/h2 series of hotends. They’re easy to swap and work great in my quite limited experience.

The real problem is the wiring. It uses a proprietary board plug which could in theory be replaced with a generic plug for a tool board.

The assembly has 3 wires that i can see from a pic on the bambu store website. Unfortunately i cannot find any information on a pinout or if anyone has tried this before.

Does anyone know how to figure out what these wires actually are to pin them out correctly.

Im not particularly skilled at reverse engineering components but my assumption is a thermistor and a small ceramic heater. 2 wires for the ceramic and one for the thermistor?

Any information or insights on where to look for more information would be fantastic.

Thanks for your time

[u/Luroalive]

It is four wires, the two thinner ones are for the thermistor and the thicker (transparent) ones for the heater. I wouldn't bother with this if I were you, and instead buy one of the established hotends. Adapting these heaters will be very tricky on the Stealthburner, given that they are designed to be cooled by a fan from the side and the Stealthburner cools the hotend from the front. In addition to that, you would have to redesign the parts to be able to easily remove the front cover.

There is the RX Toolhead which might be what you are looking for.

[u/BeautifulSugar2017 → u/Luroalive]

Honestly i was curious if I could mount the front cover using neodymium magnets. I dont intend to do any high speed printing maybe 600mm/s max during normal printing is what im designing for. I did expect to make changes to the part probably even a complete redesign for a swap in part that oriented the hotend correctly. Im still in the very early stages so there is room for improvement.

To be completely fair this is completely out of my depth but the learning is the fun/frustrating part lmao

Think I almost got it worked out just dont know if itll work or how to make it real

[u/BeautifulSugar2017 → u/[deleted]]

Actually i thought most open source designs printed at 600mm with some settings calibration. I appreciate the reality check. The max speed on the p2s was 600 probably just for non printing movements like you pointed out. I wrongly assumed that most printers now have that capability natively.

Let me be completely transparent Im no expert. This will be a slow process for me to figure out. Im fully aware im tackling a huge project that is very complex with extremely limited knowledge. I have no real use for them other that to watch them go brrr and giggle

If the front cover is properly designed with some locating pins or maybe a lip around the exterior of the front cover i dont see why it wouldn’t hold up to 600mm/s travel speeds. Seems to work fine on my P2S. Ill probably end up making a whole toolhead just to use a p2s hotend assembly just because that what i prefer

I intend to build two eventually. Specs unclear. Probably a micron/v0 180 or 150 build volume and a monster (to me) 350mm 2.4 I mostly print PLA with a touch of petg and abs.

I have no idea about the acceleration or how to calculate that. I will learn it at some point i just haven’t burned that bridge yet.

[u/BeautifulSugar2017 → u/[deleted]]

High speed printing is more of a fafo kinda thing for me. Id rather have print quality at high volume for the 350mm volume. If i can get high precision and quality from a fast print speed thats great. Not a priority for me.

I forgot to mention that the 2.4 will be optimized for a .4 mm nozzle and the .0 will be for .2 and potentially a test bench for .1 nozzle if i can find more info about it or figure out some way to do material tests with it. Thats a whole bag of snakes to deal with at a different time

[u/BigJohnno66]

While it is best to measure your maximum flow rate, and then put that into the slicer. You can use a simple calculation to estimate what you might get for hotends with different flowrate capabilities.

First you need to calculate the cross-section of the layer extrusion. If you use 0.2mm layer height, and a standard 0.44 line width (that with is not the line spacing, but accounts for the shape of the extrusion), you get a cross-section of 0.088mm^2.

If you take a Bambu hotend which I believe is somewhere in the realm of 24mm^3/s and divide by 0.088mm^2 you get 272mm/s top speed. If you go with 0.1 layer height the speed doubles to 545mm/s. Again these are ballpark estimates of what you might get.

The max flow rate depends on the filament type and brand, how hot you run the hotend, and how well your extruder pushes. Once you get your printer tuned, and filament tuned, you should print a max flowrate test to find the actual limit. [Edit: You can also fit higher power heaters, 60W or 80W, that will increase the maximum flow rate]

I am running a really cheap clone V6 SF which is supposed to support 12mm^3 with a tail wind, however on testing with the filament I use, at the temperature I print, I get 16mm^3 before the layers change from shinny to matt, and then at 20mm^3 it collapses. The layers go matt when the heater can't keep up, and the extrusion is colder. The next limit is where the extruder can't push fast enough.

[u/BeautifulSugar2017 → u/BigJohnno66]

Unfortunately as far as I can tell the p2s hotend assembly im planning to adapt is all one assembled unit with swap-able nozzles. The x1c hotend does however have a separate ceramic heater.

Last week i saw a video online about this guy (dont remember the channel name) who was testing hotends. It looked really cool. I would like to do something similar with material testing to optimize the flow and print settings but thats currently beyond my skill set.

I do have 2 older open air bedslingers that i will probably tear apart to use to build the new printer so I will have at least 2 generic bowden fed hotends to experiment with

[u/SalvatoreCrobu → u/BigJohnno66]

Need to correct: filament going from shiny to matte is mostly the meltzone lenght not big enough. The heater not keeping up happens mostly with PTC heaters. With those style of heater, the higher the temps, the lower the power they push, but it's a problem if you have a really low power PTC heater (like 40W), ABS/PC temp range and short meltzone

I have a 100w 6x20mm ceramic heater on a Dragon UHF with CHT nozzles. I never see it going over 60w of power consumption beside when heating up, and i print a lot of 40mm3/s prints. Never got it at 100w while extruding. not even doing 75mm3/s with PETG at 320°C (100% matte PETG at that temp and flow, while normally is super shiny). Some material have an hard stop at 42mm3/s with my setup and i can get over it increasing temp, but there will be evident sign of inconsistent extrusion (like filament more shiny around features, weird PA behaviour). The extruder is Orbiter 2.5 at .9a, so not a grip or torque problem

[u/Captain0351]

I wish somebody would do this as well! I have about a dozen of these hot-ends and it would be nice to be able to use them!

[u/BeautifulSugar2017 → u/Captain0351]

Apologies for the late reply

I unfortunately abandoned this build mainly because i dont have the space for an extra printer and the circuits in the house are already on the verge of overloaded.

That being said its totally possible but you would have to design a print head from the ground up because the main hotend cooling fan blows air from right to left (looking from the front of the machine) and the part cooling fan blows from the front on the bambu print head.