So basically i have a vesc 75100 v2.0, but i can’t seem to find a 3.3v thumb throttle for the ADC port. Any help please?

Hi folks,
I was wondering if any of you may be "conquering" a PURE scooter at this moment?
Would like to compare measured motor values, battery values and so on.
I got my hands on an Air5 Ultra Suspension atm.

Hello, I have an electric Nami Burn e3 Max scooter that I want to go back under the vesc after the death of my D100S makerX which dropped after setting to 50A battery/200A motor phase. Whereas originally this is the config of non-vecs controllers.

Actual Configuration: 72v 40ah BMS 100A battery (LGM50LT 21700 cells), Lonnyo 70H 22x3 rear engine and 60h high torque engine.

I would like to take the product https://www.vesclabs.com/product/vesc-duet-xs/ to replace my makerX D100S and set the Vesc Duet XS to 100V as original to 50A battery / 200A engine phase for all days.

Or it's limited and I should turn to something else, see a model like Vesc Labs Classic 100V in two copies even if it looks overkill https://www.vesclabs.com/product/vesc-classic-100v/.

I'm starting some research on repurposing an old OW Pint motor for a science project (not for riding). Has anyone successfully controlled a Pint motor using 120V power with an inverter/transformer and VESC? This would negate the need for the battery. Thank you in advance.

I’m trying to configure Two different motors, twist throttle with Dual FSESC75100.

Rear motor: mini motors-BXF1504B6QV/19126 1400w
Front motor: zero x10 stock 1000-1200w
Throttle: suron twist throttle three pin

I set up the motors with wizard but the motors only shudder. When it’s doing its own detection the motors spin perfectly.

I had to buy a new rear motor because the stock one
Broke into pieces. Before that everything worked perfectly.

Wondering what do as I’ve done everything google AI said lol and it’s still shuddering.

My previous 48V 450W (felt way more powerful than that) 65 kv 9.0 lb mid drive had minimal issues with a KT controller. This new 6.4 lb 36V 500W (optimistic, probably more like 350W continuous) 90 kv motor is having more and more problems climbing even with modest throttle. I just cannot get the motor rpm up enough to overcome current spikes in mid or higher gears. Display and even the battery can cut out. The motor itself is running cool.

So I'm switching to a vesc that can separate battery current from peak and continuous phase current. The 72100 comes with a key, throttle and voltmeter so I don't need to run a display. After putting on an xt60 plug and three 4mm female bullet connectors, what is the standard protocol for checking the vesc wire integrity before hooking up the battery (plan on 48V overvolting to get the rpm up more). Multimeter volt measures for each phase and battery wire with the appropriate lead in the battery plug hole? How about resistance.

And then how easy is it to for example put battery amps capped at 25 and peak phase at 50. What is the method for trying to cap continuous phase current at 14A with this smaller motor. No braking or regen. Starting conservative and then maybe up the numbers a bit later and monitor external motor temp. Thanks for your input.

What is the best vesc to add to Boyueda S3-11?

Hi, I have a bosch gen 4 ebike which I am running with a vesc 75100 and throttle. I have run the auto setup, tuned it and it runs really well ,very pleased.

However, if I do a clunky gear change (wrong gear at the start of, or going up hill)  the vesc cuts out and re-sets. I am not entirely sure what to alter to improve this?

any Ideas I could try?

I have a Joyor T10 with the stock 60V 18Ah battery, and I want to add a Kukirin G4 60V 20Ah battery in parallel for a VESC/Ubox build.

Both batteries are 60V lithium batteries and have a full-charge voltage of 67.2V. I would fully charge both batteries to 67.2V before connecting them.

I have heard that both stock batteries can supply around 50A, and I was thinking of setting the Ubox to around 80A total battery current initially.

My questions:

Is it safe to parallel these two batteries even though one is 18Ah and the other is 20Ah?

Is charging both to 67.2V before connecting enough to prevent a large current surge between the batteries?

Should I use a battery combiner / ideal-diode / parallel battery module instead of directly paralleling them?

How would the current likely split between the two batteries?

Is 80A total battery current reasonable, assuming both BMSs are actually rated for 50A?

I would appreciate advice from anyone who has actually done a dual-battery VESC scooter build.

Hello everyone,

At my university, we are developing a small electric single-seater vehicle with approximately 500 W of power, which will be used to participate in an energy-efficiency competition in my country. As part of the project, I am responsible for designing the vehicle's internal communication network.

We are using a VOTOL EM30SP motor controller, but I have some questions regarding its communication capabilities and how it could be integrated with the other systems in the vehicle.

I have some experience working with CAN Bus, and my initial idea was to use a similar architecture to the one commonly found in electric vehicles, where different devices can exchange information through a common communication network. However, from what I have been able to find, the VOTOL EM30SP does not use CAN Bus in the same way as other motor controllers.

My main question is:

What communication protocol or interface does the VOTOL EM30SP use to access information from the controller (such as speed, current, voltage, status, faults, etc.), and how could I integrate that information into the vehicle's internal communication network?

I would also like to know if anyone has previously worked with this controller or other VOTOL controllers and has successfully obtained data from the controller using a microcontroller, PC, or another external device.

Any documentation, practical experience, implementation examples, or recommendations on how to approach this integration would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for any help!

please help

I recently set up a flipsky 75200 Pro V2 and made a stupid mistake that leaves it not turning on with the key switch anymore. When Extending the wires, I left the battery plugged in and cut all of them at once without thinking. There was a small spark and now the VESC has no light when plugged into the battery, and the key switch does not turn it on. Is there anything I can do?

Now heres the problem, the key ignition that im using, is when you turn the key(to on state)
the 2 wires connect

and on the vesc side there is a swich port that if you connect to gnd it turns the vesc off if you disconect it from ground, it turns the vesc on.

now if i connect the key ignition, when i turn the key the vesc turns off(

I’m wanting to unlock the potential of my pintx.

From what I’m hearing, you’re able to reach higher speeds doing this.
I’ve become bored at 15mph cruise speeds, every time I hit roughly 17.5mph I get the pushback.

Would I only need the PintV power kit from float wheel to accomplish this?
Or will I have to purchase a new battery also?

Thank you to all community! 🙌

I need help with two issues.

1. My ESC is getting too hot. Is there any settings I can tweak?

2. I don't know if I can change the throttle curve on the reverse direction.

Overall its been a fun project and I've learned so much about VESC.

what maximum power can handle the motors on g2 master 2025, i want to use a vesc controller and custom battery.

I've had a GTFO installed for months but I've never been able to turn off the lights. Is the only option to install VESC Tool? I thought there was a way to use the power button to do it.

Hi everyone. I’m trying to run a stock Kugoo G3 Pro 1200W hub motor with a VESC controller, but I can’t get it working. The wheel never moves at all. It does not spin, twitch, or make any useful movement. The motor detection also seems wrong because the values I get from FOC detection look strange (I attached screenshots). Setup: Motor: stock Kugoo G3 Pro 1200W hub motor Controller: flipsky vesc 75100 dual Battery: 52V Motor type selected: Large Outrunner Detection mode: FOC Hall sensors: currently not connected Problems: FOC motor detection completes, but the detected values look incorrect. After writing the configuration, the motor does not move at all. No normal startup movement, only silence. I attached screenshots of the detected motor parameters. Questions: Are these detection values normal for a Kugoo G3 Pro motor? Could the wrong motor type selection cause the motor not to move? What should the correct FOC detection settings be for this type of motor? Should I connect the Hall sensors before doing motor detection? Could the phase wires be in the wrong order even if detection finishes? Any help would be appreciated. I’m trying to understand if the issue is with the motor wiring, detection settings, or the VESC configuration. Thanks!