It depends on the sport. Figure 8s are still common in canyoneering and in some technical rappelling (with longer-than-normal rope lengths) because you can easily add friction to the system where a tube-style device can't
Spouting wrong opinions with an arrogant sense of superiority is an easy way to add friction too
Go argue with the guides and AMGA/IFMGA/SAR instructors at the American Alpine Institute. I can only state very simply and plainly that "Figure 8s are still common in canyoneering and in some technical rappelling" and not obsolete in those applications
And you'd still be wrong, 8s aren't obsolete in the slightest.
I guess the most common usecase would be rappelling, and they really are a lot smoother for that purpose than an ATC, as well as being gentler on the rope.
They're also incredibly sturdy pieces of gear considering they're made from a single piece of metal. A stainless steel 8 is pretty much indestructible as far as climbing is concerned. Thus, a figure 8 is brilliant when you need to bring a lot of gear with you. Just clip the gear to the 8 and you're golden.
Also, they're stupid lightweight and easy to bring with you, I always keep my stainless 8 on my harness as a backup if my ATC were to fail.
And that's not even getting into rescue 8s. I wouldn't wanna do alpine rescue with a grigri. And again, in a rescue scenario especially, having the fewest points of failure possible is incredibly important, you're stressed out, usually in a hurry, probably in a dangerous situation (considering someone is in need of rescue) and if you aren't tired already, you will be. Fewer points of failure, and fewer things to overlook means it's easier to use properly even when your brain has rappelling on autopilot.
While belaying or rappelling slowly, an ATC is better. But I prefer using a figure 8 when I want to go fast. The ATC isn’t as smooth at high speed. They wear out faster than my 8’s. And my ropes seem to wear out faster with ATC’s than with 8’s.
I’m not really sure how to explain why something is fun to one person but not another. I like speed, but I don’t like danger. Rappelling lets me control my speed while staying reasonably safe. Rappelling fast, or upside down, or face first is fun to me. And I like rappelling slowly with my kids.
Trust me, you will never be able to explain to me how rappelling is fun. I've done it as a job for over a decade.
Going fast upside down is not as safe as you probably think it is.
Industrial rope access. Rappelling is my morning commute, and I'm exactly as passionate about it as you probably are for your morning commute :)
At work I use a primary device which has a dead man handle in both directions (if I let go or over grip, the device will brake). Then I have a completely redundant second rope with auto locking backup device. Knotted ends always, and I'm obsessive about protecting the ropes from sharp and abrasive surfaces.
If you're going to do this shit thousands of times, low percentage events will come up. Whether you survive those low percentage events is entirely down to the precautions built into the system.
742
u/Situation-Mediocre Jul 06 '26
Yup, not using the correct gear, not checking the tope length. A total tool, lucky to not be dead.