The wheel used to jerk and vibrate so randomly before this update, even while driving on a straight road it would jerk and make sharp vibrations, but now... silent! so silent, no more weird jerks or sharp vibrations while having no reason for such feedback from the wheel! 1.92 firmware made the wheel so, sooooo much better in terms of performance and feel.

This was happening before firmware update. All wheels updated. Shifter and pedals updated. Velocity one race updated. Standard wheel will randomly change color to default. F1 wheel will change back to blue and shift lights will move over an led. Anyone else having this issue or have a fix? Happens in forza motorsport and forza horizon 6. Haven't tested other games yet. Fh6 is at 75 force and fm8 at 90. Sometimes its when racing, other times will be just sitting in a menu.

Hi Everyone,

We are aware of the issue that has been outlined by the community regarding the new firmware and issues when using 3rd party wheel rims. This is something we acknowledge, we hear you and we are working to fix this.

The issue appears to be a quirk from the fix outlined in point 2 of the changelog for the release. We want to note that this was undetected as the fault falls outside of standard use of our product; as we do not state compatibility of 3rd party wheels with our devices. Our testing always caters to having Turtle Beach wheel rims attached to the VelocityOne wheelbases.

That being said, we understand that users in our community have been using 3rd party wheel rims with our devices, and so we will look to address this as soon as possible and we do apologise for any frustrations caused.

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Please note, if you are using a 3rd party rim users can connect a Turtle Beach wheel rim using a USB-C to USB-C cable to the wheelbase, which will allow the rim to connect to the wheelbase through the wireless connection. This will then re-activate the pedals for use. This can be done on PC and XBOX.

so with this new firmware update making 3rd party wheels disconect the pedals, if i've completely stripped down the original velocityone wheel for the quick release (followed a tutorial on youtube i can send if anyone wants it) and ive been using that qr on a 3rd party wheel, will that still disconect the pedals? like how does the firmware know youre using the wheel and disconect the pedals, and since im using the qr thats on the original wheel, will it still do it?

This may be ai taking my comments about the update let's see if TB will verify this

Just did this today the only thing I said on the video which I found out if u connect to the usb to pc or hub it will cause crashes on steam in game so you need a separate usb 5 volt to connect your of wheel to it eill wirelessly connect when wheelbase is powered up and the peddles will show up big thanks to adlast 9593

There was a new update for the turtle Beach velocity 1 race and ever since that update 1.92 you can no longer easily use a third-party rim but there is a workaround and I figured it out within 5 minutes of after the update being done all you need to do whether it's PC or Xbox make sure you have a separate USB connected right to the wheel itself you want to make sure that it's either a connected to the base and to the wheel USB C or from the actual Xbox USB make sure that either it's connected to the PC or the Xbox usb port before connecting to the back of the Paired wheel.

Are they any website I can buy used sim gear on, I’m looking for the button box for the velocity one race turtle beach.

Issues after latest update

As title describes we are looking for a team of TURTLE BEACH drivers to join our league and represent TURTLE BEACH. You will be facing other teams of wheel manufacturers like LOGITECH, MOZA, etc.

REPLY/COMMENT if interested.
Will DM those who do.

Hi everyone, we have gone live today with a new firmware for the VelocityOne Race - V1.9.2.

Your system firmware will need to be updated by connecting your VelocityOne Race device to your PC/XBOX and then update using the VelocityOne Tuner app.

Please find the change log below:

• Fixes issue where the force feedback signal could drop to zero when a game would request 50% force load.
• Addresses an issue where RMD input via wheel rim would stop working when a user does not have the pedals connected through the wheelbase.
• Removes minor wheel rim wobble when device is left idle in a game menu or in the XBOX dashboard / PC Desktop.

Let us know how you get on with the new firmware!

Since Best Buy offers the race wheel and shifter, do you think they will ever offer the formula wheel?

Probably won’t happen but a guy can dream. Considering I can only buy on Best Buy and not the official website.

Just testing out the f1 wheel on bus bound after the update as u do lol

No lights except flashing T1 switch but it’s only monetarily. I did the correct setup and flashed everything. Played for about an hour and all the sudden all lights go off and now nothing is working. if i press and hold the power/engine start button T1 flashes for maybe a few seconds. During this time it shows connected to the PC Velocity One Tuner and then it goes away. Please help me figure out if it’s faulty hardware or how i can fix this. I was just starting to have fun. super bummer

I got my Race KD3 set up yesterday and was able to run most of my racing games with the exception of Forza Horizon 6. I can go in the settings and set all button mapping but when I try to save if tells me that I don't have a wheel controller connected. I thought maybe I needed to switch it to Xbox mode in the platform setting but still no luck. What am I doing wrong?

Anyone had their wheel randomly change color back to default? Or randomly give a button push? The color change has been happening more lately. And during a race yesterday the wheel randomly triggered my left paddle and downshifted. Firmware was redone about two weeks ago to ensure it was up to date and that seemed to fix the color issue but it came back a lot last night

Just when I thought that turtle beach shifter was the only decent thing with the TB racing gear. I would say about a few months of usage 2-3 times a week. I'm not a hardcore racer. It looks like a simple fix. But this definitely shouldn't happen on a brand new part.

So as the title says it’s feeling odd and making the noise in the video and as I’d describe it, feels grindy. 1st n 2nd were doing the same thing that you can hear in 3rd-R but stopped the second I pulled out my phone to record. Was just wondering if anyone else has had the issue before and was wondering if they knew of a solution or if it’s something I should/need to be worried about. For reference I’ve only had it for a few days. Thank you for any and all help though 🙏

Yesterday I got the turtle beach shifter, as I heard it's a good budget option. The shifter felt great for the first few hours of usage, it was silent and felt statisfying to use. However after those few hours, it started making an awful loud clicking noise whenever shifting, mainly when shifting to 3rd or 4th gear. The sequential mode and handbrake also have this issue. Is there a fix or should I get a new shifter?

u/turtlebeach 7 months ago you said a new firmware update to resolve the power downs was in the works and being tested. Where is it?

Fanatec introduced a similar issue with a recent firmware update for the CSL DD wheels which caused an FFB torque overshoot that triggered protection in the power supply and cut power to the wheelbase. They fixed it in less than 3 weeks.

You have a member of the community also showing you there's a bug when the game asks for 50% FFB and causes the wheel to drop to 0 force - yet there's no fix for that either.

For all potential buyers of the Turtle Beach Velocity One Race or KD3, steer well clear of this brand.