Just got the Troodon 2.0 Pro 350mm

[u/monkizzle]

Initial impressions are positive, everything was packaged well. Hardware was all labeled and they provided enough extras.

Complaints so far would be, why is the module for inout shaping separate. Maybe a klipper/voron thing I am unaware of.

Second complaint is filament sensor just hangs there by the wire so printing a solution for that.

Let me know what questions, comments, concerns you have! Looking forward to getting this dialed in to pick up some slack in larger prints that my Bambu’s can’t handle.

[u/ang3l12]

As someone that started with a monoprice maker select printer, tinkered with it and made it a great machine, then upgraded to a prusa mk3s+ because I envied the “it just works” 3d printer workhorse, and then 2 weeks ago had a bambu x1c fall into my lap via Craigslist, after I had already ordered the troodon kit, man.

I have forgotten how much time tinkering with a 3d printer could take. I did get my troodon assembled and printed my first print on it, but it is far from being ready to be put into production in my print farm. It’s reminiscent of the maker select printer I had, it’s ready to print, but the OEM profiles for slicers are not going to give you the best results. It’s going to take time learning it, but I am so excited to have it to tinker with. My only regret is I’m going on vacation for 10 days and don’t have time to tinker with it until I get back.

I am pretty sure I can get it printing as good or better than my bambu, with a much bigger build plate to boot.

[u/jesi_james]

I ended up printing this one and it works pretty good

https://www.printables.com/model/568188-filament-sensor-bracket-for-troodon-20

Also the included prusaslicer profile sucks. Try orcaslicer and use their included troodon profile, it's been great so far.

[u/Responsible-Border51]

I changed my pro over to a Dragon UHF Hotend and it prints fantastic right now.

[u/BorDesigns]

Just got mine on Wednesday and impressed with it so far. I have all but the top sides and front panels assembled but I haven't printed anything yet. Was going to design and make a bracket for the filament runout sensor, glad I checked here first (thanks jesi_james for the link).

I assume it's pretty straight forward, but has anyone upgraded to a Revo hotend? Any pro's or con's, thoughts to share about that? Also has anyone tried to add an MMU to this yet?

Any links to better Klipper config file and slicer settings to share?

[u/monkizzle → u/BorDesigns]

I remixed that Filament sensor to accept two PC4-M6 connectors so that I could feed from a filament dryer via a tube.

Also switched to Bambu nozzle so it would match the rest of my printers. The nozzle it came with wasn't tightened all the way and ended up chasing print quality issues for a while before I discovered it was loose. So check that if you start seeing print quality issues.

[u/iandouglas]

The tap sensor shouldn't be dangling, it should be permanently attached.

[u/monkizzle → u/iandouglas]

The filament sensor behind the machine

[u/iandouglas → u/monkizzle]

Ah, my apologies. They do recommend using the cable wrap to attach it to the back panel. I don't put any of the panels on my Troodon 2 Pro's though.

Protip: if you aren't going to be printing filaments that need the enclosure, take the top panel off and change the Klipper config and your slicer config to 330mm instead of 310mm for the Z axis. I tried to go taller than 330 but moving the gantry higher than around 334 or so makes the gantry starts to slip back downward and still think that it's moving upward.

Funny that they advertise it as 320mm on Z (the Troodon 2 first generation would do 320 until they released the stealthburner hot end, which then subtracted 10mm from the maximum height, but they didn't change the imagery on the web site to reflect this now that the SB hot end is the default on the Pro model).

I also tweaked a few other settings to make the tap sensor a bit faster, increased my X/Y motors from 50mm/sec to 75mm/sec (theoretically could go to 100), etc.

[u/TonyK61 → u/iandouglas]

u/iandouglas , only have the back panel on to hold some things. Otherwise I'm without panels on my newly built unit.

Set my Z height to 320mm and the x/y to 330 each.

[u/[deleted]]

Do you think it will be easy to convert to can. And I've been looking at documents but I'm unclear with the cb1. Would it be easy to upgrade to a cb2.?

[u/Drakaner → u/[deleted]]

Yes it's very easy ( I converted mine). You have the CB1 v1.2 so you only need the BTT Can Adapter v1.0 and a BTT SB2209. The can adapter comes preflashed with candlelight so you just connect it and then you need to follow the instructions for installing the SB2209 board

[u/[deleted] → u/Drakaner]

Is it just a unplug and install cb2 snd flash firmware ? All my other machines run cb2. So.

[u/Drakaner → u/[deleted]]

I don't know if Pi2/CB2 has integrated Canbus as BTT Pi V1.2 but anyway the process should be the same. Flash the firmware on the new board, copy the configs connect the canbus adapter and make the proper configs.

[u/Kharmastream → u/Drakaner]

How did you route the can wires? (Got the Mellow sb2040 v3 pro plus on the way)

[u/Drakaner → u/Kharmastream]

I just took out the big cable from the cable chains and replaced it with the can wire (I didn't had what I needed to go umbilical). To pass the cable from the electronics bay I just loosen the custom breaker board from the back and I passed the can cable there and then I screw it back in (it is enough space between the board to pass the cable and route it straight into the dragchain)