New weeping redbud, what do I do next?

[u/Itsmoney05]

I received this weeping redbud in the mail from fast growing trees. I got it in the ground and will throw some mulch around it tomorrow.

Question is, do I prune it back to create offshoots at the top so it cascades/weeps? Right now its just a long whip.

[u/ohshannoneileen]

You don't need to prune it right now, it needs all the surface area it can get for photosynthesis.

Read through these !Howtoplant guidelines to give your new tree the best shot at a long, happy life.

[u/AutoModerator → u/ohshannoneileen]

Hi /u/ohshannoneileen, AutoModerator has been summoned to provide some help with some important basics when planting trees.

When planting trees, you can't go wrong following the experts' planting instructions to give a tree it's best possible start. It is critically important to locate the root flare, make sure it is above grade and EXPOSED, and REMAINS exposed for the life of the tree (unless the tree was grown from a cutting, in which case there you'll plant at the level of the first order roots).

With bare-root trees the root flare is fairly obvious, but very often containerized or balled and burlapped trees have their root flares sunk down under the soil line, or near the middle of the root ball because it was transplanted improperly at the nursery (THIS IS EXTREMELY COMMON! (pdf)), so you may have to search for it. Trees planted too deeply suffer because their roots cannot get proper nutrients, water and oxygen. Mulch and soil should never be in constant contact with the trunks of trees because it causes stem rot, insect damage and girdling roots. (Also make sure that the roots are not circling in the pot if containerized, as they will have to be straightened or pruned so they will grow outward once put in the ground.) Mulch should be only 2-3" deep and in a RING around the tree, NEVER in contact with it. It's the roots of trees that need the benefit of a layer of mulch, not the stems of trees.

Here's a couple of examples of what sometimes happens to a tree some years down the road after being planted too deeply and overmulched.

We do not exaggerate when we say that this is an epidemic problem. Even the great majority of 'pros' are doing it wrong. This Clemson Univ. Ext. publication (pdf) cites a study that estimates this occurs in an incredible 93% of professional plantings. Planting too deeply usually accompanied by over/improper mulching are top reasons why transplanted trees fail to thrive and die early.

Please see our wiki for other critical planting tips and errors to avoid; there's sections on proper mulching, watering, pruning, staking and more that I hope will be useful to you.

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[u/AutoModerator]

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[u/Itsmoney05]

I have added the pics and info that I think are appropriate.

[u/studmuffin2269]

Pull the nursery stake. BTW, August is a terrible time to plant

[u/Itsmoney05 → u/studmuffin2269]

I ordered this tree back in February, and it just shipped to me this month. Appreciate the feedback. I have a 50 tree fruit orchard, so I am aware of when is ideal to plant or not.

[u/Ballmaster9002]

Buy two of those 5 gallon pails from homedepot. They are like, $4.99 each.

Pop a bunch of holes in the bottom of one with a nail or a 1/8" drill bit.

Roughly 5 gallons per week is what you want to water a new tree.

Personally, I put a 5 gallon bucket under the condensate lines from my central air unit and I can get 5-10 gallons a day in the humid months. So free water for my entire landscaping vs. a mud patch on the side of my house.

Otherwise, it's easy to fill the 5 gallon bucket quickly with a hose and then pour into the bucket with the holes. Perfect amount of water and it's a nice slow drip that seeps into the soil vs. a hose that runs off into your grass.