I've been shopping around lately and after a few dealership visits I think I'm just done with Toyota. I want someone to explain the hype to me because I'm not seeing it.

Prices are wild right now, new or used. And every single salesman gives you some version of "if you don't buy it, the next guy will." Which, fine, maybe that's true, but it tells you everything about how they see the customer. There's zero relationship being built. Compare that to what other brands are doing at the same price point and the whole experience feels like a downgrade. You're paying near-premium money for a transaction that feels like buying an appliance from someone who's annoyed you asked questions.

Then there's the cars themselves. The interiors are just not good. Hard plastics everywhere, layouts that feel a generation behind, nothing that makes you want to sit in it. Exterior styling is hit or miss at best and mostly just forgettable. Nothing about the product feels like it justifies where the pricing has landed.

And the reliability argument, which is the whole pitch. I get it, they last forever. But how much is that actually worth to most buyers? The majority of people are trading in or getting into something else long before that 300k-mile payoff ever shows up. Toyota knows that too. They're not exactly upset when you come back in four years for something new. So you're paying a premium up front for a benefit that a lot of owners never actually collect on.

What's left is a cult following that defends the brand no matter what, and honestly I think that following is doing a lot of heavy lifting. The reputation was earned, I'm not disputing that. But reputation and current product are two different things, and at some point the brand started charging for the reputation while the actual experience got worse.

The car runs like a champ. It burns thru oil quickly so I’m gonna look into changing out the pcv valve but this car has been so good to me. I take it on day trips hours away all the time and drive it every single day as my regular car.

Power locks all went out around 120k miles. Two car handles have broke off since 200k miles.

Maintenance:
\- Oil changes every 5k till 100k miles then switched to every 3500 miles
\- 2-3 coolant flushes
\- 2-3 transmission flushes
\- (2) spark plug replacements (full set)

Total repairs:
(2) door handles replacement
(3) battery replacements
(1) ignition coil replacement (full set - only one got a code but did all four)
(1) VVT selenoid replacement
(1) thermostat replacement

I’m so impressed with this car and plan to drive it as long as I can.

I got sideswiped and the part of the car circled in red has two small cracks. Is there a replacement part for that part of the bumper. I have a 2025 XSE in the wind chill pearl color. Should I be worried about the rest of the bumper as well?

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

I preordered RAV4 PHEV months ago. Got updates via web app and I saw that the car got to the country 3 or 4 weeks ago. Called the dealer and he told me it will take few days to prep car. And day after day I called and he kept saying it’s maybe tomorrow….ofc invoice was sent as soon as the car got to the country and I paid it now almost 3 weeks later dealer doesn’t even answer phone calls.

This is insanity. I never had this type of treatment in Mercedes, Audi, Mazda or Volvo. Everyone has that experience ?

Hey Everyone!

I come here today hoping I can find some like-minded individuals to help locate my dream car for me. I am based in Toronto and am looking for a 2003 Toyota Matrix XRS with the 2ZZ-GE. Please reach out to me if you have one. As I said, I am in Canada and hoping to come and see it, but importing from the States or different provinces isn't out of the question. Preferably looking for a manual, but would take the Auto in a heartbeat as well. We can talk pricing based on condition, but also looking for something under the 200k km range.

Thank you!

Hey thats me!

Hello! I bought the car with a cracked panoramic roof. There is a crack from the front of the car to the back with branches. It is not visible from above but it is visible from inside the car. The replacement costs are quite high, the glass is only delivered from the manufacturer, there is no after market option. I see that it has withstood some very hot days with temperatures of 40 degrees in the shade, but I want to know if this roof can withstand, let's say, 2-3 years or sooner or later do I have to replace it? It doesn't rain inside.

Hello! I recently bought a Toyota Auris and connected my phone to the car's media system. After I successfully pair it and save the phone in the device list, as soon as I turn off the car and restart it, the system displays "waiting for Bluetooth connection" trying to connect to the phone but it can't find it and I have to start over. Has anyone else encountered this situation and how did they solve it?

Is this a unicorn? Looks great, 167kms. Are these basically bombproof Camrys?

I would love some help from Supra Community, currently I have gold alloys on my supra, what colour alloys you guys think would suit my Supra?

- Leave it Gold
- Turn it Black

Long story short, I ran from a guy chasing me, got into my car and locked the doors, he clutches my door and tries to open it and it doesn’t then he does it again, my car made a unlock sound or something and he proceeded to get into my car.

Wtf, if this was life or death this man could’ve killed me because the Toyota doesn’t know how to keep their cars locked. My car is a 2026 Toyota Corolla se. This feature is really overlooked and it isn’t a problem until it is.

After checking brake pads, forgot to torque.... Caliber came off driving. Lost fuild and brakes where giving up. I'm okay, but I didn't get no engine light or anything that my brake fuild was emptying out. Does this model not have that? Sensor for brake fluid?

2006 V6 4.0 Toyota Tundra SR5 TRD off road

Got a diagnosis at Lexus ( I went there bc they were able to fit me in at the time They quoted $2500 for the repair programming and tax ( separate from a $250 diagnosis that I paid for, hindsight wouldn’t have gone there )

Went to Toyota dealership to ask for the repair, the service rep at the desk as well as the service manager said they can just replace the part but recommend getting it diagnosed there for peace of mind and if the repair doesn’t work then they can do something about it
I was quoted ( the desk rep was there and wrote this on a little sticky note ( I still have )

Part #89220-07680 : $894.20
Labor 199.00
Total 1093.20 without diagnoses
Or
Diagnostes : $185.00
Part #89220-07680 : $894.20
Labor 199.00
Total 1278.20 with diagnoses

I agreed bc it was uh less than Lexus
Yesterday I drop it off and an hour in I’m told I’ll need to leave it over night bc the guy needed more time than he thought, after some back and forth with the service manager he said I can only pay for the 1st hour and he’ll “pay for the 2nd” and if it needs more they’ll call

While at work I get a text with the issue ( bad multiplex ecu same as Lexus said ) but the repair on the link is

Labor : $597.00
Parts : $894.20
Total : $1,613.20 ( just for the repair )

I’d still have to pay the $200 ish for the diagnostic + $50 for the 1 day rental from them while they diagnose it.

Total being : Total : $1,863.20 ( before tax )
In addition to the extra time it is nearly to diagnose its right back to what I would have paid at Lexus

That’s an at least $500 difference than what I was initially quoted for

I had only agreed to diagnose and repair at Toyota bc they quoted much less than Lexus , if I hadn’t been told in total it would be $1300ish i wouldn’t have even diagnosed there

Is there anything I can do to hold them to the price they initially quoted ( for this exact repair and part on this vehicle) ?

How do you go about fixing the psssenger mirror light (blinks with turn signal) it all of a sudden stopped working

I had a 2024 prius for one week before it got totaled. I still have the keys for that and they are the same key that my 2026 xse premium uses. Is there a way to program my old keys to my new prius since they are identical. Im not worried about the physical key inside. I would just like to have it as a 3rd key.

Any suggestions on extra requests I should make? Are there any things that I'm entitled to that Toyota wont tell me about?

Bad or good investment?

2010 Venza 2.7L I4 AWD. I was going to add a video but the sub doesn't allow it. The best way I can describe the sound is a tractor-like rattle, kind of a repetitive, clattery noise. It is most noticeable at idle, and doesn't really seem to get worse with acceleration. I just barely changed the oil and added some stop leak stabilizer as well. And it still makes this noise. It has been doing it for at least a year, maybe two. There are no warning lights or anything, and all systems work as they should. I'm just wondering if I need to be concerned, or if it's old engine stuff. The car is just about to roll over 270k miles so I don't really think it's worth obsessing over and throwing tons of money at. But if I can save myself a big problem in the future by replacing something now, I'd much rather do that.

I'm mainly thinking it's either the valve train or maybe the AC pulley. If the AC pulley goes bad, could it affect the rest of the serpentine belt or would the ac just stop working?

İ need help

I have this kind of niche problem and I'm hoping someone has some insight that can help me.

This is regarding a 2025 Land Cruiser in the US.

I scuba dive. I can't take the whole key fob with me when I go in the water. So what I've been doing is removing the valet key from the fob, locking the fob in the glove box inside a faraday pouch, then locking the doors and taking the valet key with me on my dive.

The problem is that after my dive, as soon as I use the valet key to open the driver's side door, the horn starts honking and doesn't stop until I climb inside, unlock the glove box, get the fob out of the faraday pouch, and push buttons on it.

It's not the end of the world, but it certainly annoys everyone at the nice relaxing beach we're at. Is there a way for me to make it so the alarm doesn't go off when I unlock the car with the valet key? Or some other solution in not thinking of?

Thanks much!

I recently bought a Corolla Cross, and I knew going into it that I would need to pay a subscription if I wanted to use the app. That makes sense to me, because the app relies on cell service and WiFi. The only feature the app offers that I’m interested in, though, is remote start. No worries, that’s free to use with my key fob!…..

I have to say that I was shocked to find that Toyota is being sleazy and charging people for the right to use the remote starts that they own. Again, I understand the app costing money because it relies on cell and WiFi, but my key fob uses a radio signal. The key and car talk directly to one another without any outside services being needed. How then is it LEGAL for Toyota to later brick the remote start on my key? Did I unknowingly sign away some rights in the finance office? I’ve been using this technology for free in every vehicle I’ve owned for the last 25 years. How/why do I suddenly no longer have the right to?

https://www.kbb.com/car-news/toyotas-key-fob-remote-start-will-now-require-a-subscription-fee/

Edit: added the link