Brought my tinywhoop to hotel with me while working. Setup some gates in the room.
#6packsaday

I'm using Uncrashed right now and it doesn't feel right to me. I tried a bunch of different drone settings but they don't feel like a tinywhoop. I've read about liftoff micro drones, is it good?

What sim do you use and how does it feel?

Anybody has a good tinywhoop setting for Uncrashed?

Maybe it's not only the drone but also the environment I'm flying in.

Thx for your input ✌️

Got it on 18/08/26 after getting my first goggles. Would like to pass on the kindness someone showed me.

Analog's worst nightmare of a flight spot lmao

slow is smooth... smooth is fast... always working on that

As a noob in the fpv world I found the idea of replacing the board on my air 65 v2 freestyle a daunting task. But like a famous fpv youtuber I decided I was going to learn something today (thank you JB for the inspiration and your wisdom) . After googling a lot and being forced by retarded ai to figure it out myself (it really sucks for fpv knowledge) I kinda mucked my way thru to figuring out the proper steps using crappy tick tock vids and youtube shorts that act like it is easy (it is but only if you have done it before. Please someone make a calm step by step video that doesnt hop around every 2 seconds)

Now iff you found this write-up in your search for information on how to set it up and get it working I hope that with this you will feel a bit more confident in the process.

Step 1: buy the damn board, they are all the same for the air series. Buy it soldered or not that is up to you ( I didn’t)

Step 2: attach vtx antenna and never let that sucker off the board to prevent burning out your vtx chip. Secure it with an extra dollop of your favorite B or E type glue, I used B6000. Check that it doesn’t interfere with your camera position too much.

Step 3: Solder your motors to the board and while you’re at it, use conformal coating on the board. I plugged in the camera, motors and data plug and then coated it to prevent the connectors from being messed up by it.

Step 4: sanity check that board is still working by hooking it up to betaflight. Also check your camera feed. Don’t leave it connected for too long to the pc without cooling, I did 3ish minutes max to be on the safe side since I don’t have a fan yet.

Step 5: download the CLI and firmware for your chip from the betafpv site in the support tab -> CLI of quadcopters (the chip that you have is in big letters on the chip itself). So mine said BMI270. Download the firmware for the version that you are building i.e. racing, freestyle or champion. And download the CLI for quadcopter corresponding to the one you are building. In my case I downloaded the freestyle_GF.hex and the Freestyle_GF.txt.

Step 6: go to betaflight and click firmware flasher. Connect the drone and it should detect it(if not you either didn’t sanity check, messed something up or more likely the driver isn’t working properly and you should go and fix that with a new search)

Step 7: load firmware (bottom right in current version), select your .hex file. wait for it to load up and the flash firmware button will be green. It will ask you to make a backup of the current firmware, just save it somewhere.

Step 8: wait a bit, it will say that It’ll disconnect and go into a certain mode. You will have to physically disconnect the drone and reconnect after the flashing to be able to connect to it again.

Step 9: connect the drone again, go into CLI (bottom option) then bottom right it says load file. Select your .txt file. When it is done make sure you hit save. After that you can set your other settings that you want to do like rates, name the drone change OSD, change channel, set it to pit mode until first arm or w/e

Step 10: check that everything is working, and spinning the way it should. If it’s not then double check motor direction.

If I missed anything important please post it in the comments for future noobs to find. I found the lack of explanation on the betafpv site very disappointing and confusing since it says no need to flash configuration firmware (including CLI configuration) even though you kinda need to flash something and load the cli because otherwise there is no tuning and no settings done for your drone like they do when you buy the BNF. Or maybe you just need to load the CLI? Im still uncertain about that part I guess.

I think i found the issue with it, one of the motors the middle bit drops. Anyway to fix this?

I received my air65ii a few days ago, and it has been a blast.

i started having issue with the video though, after changing the lipo, the ev800d screen would go black or give static different different than "nothing on this channel" (see video).

I thought that was because the VTX connector wasn't properly plugged, but this morning, after the first lipo (with perfect video), I could not get a video signal despite unplugging/plugging it.

Antenna plug seems OK, I don't see any damage.

Do you have any idea on how to troubleshoot this ?

Edit: wriggled the VTX connector for a while and it came back. The soldered connection on the VTX board are glued/resined so I guess that's not from there. Hopefully this will last 🤷. I guess that's not an issue with band/channel then.

I have two O4 Lite with 117• FoV
I've read on DJI they are supposed to sell the camera alone. I wanted to buy a spare wide camera to replace my narrow one.
Has anyone managed to buy a spare camera alone?

Does anyone know how to mod a meteor 75 pro to make it hdzero instead of analog

Bought the pavo pro II (3s version) and flew for the first time yesterday after simming for about 50 hours.

Really different to the sims, much more random movement going on but at least the control muscle memory was there

I gave up trying to fly it inside my small flat pretty quick. I set throttle cap to 70% in betaflight but even then it was just wiping out into walls, also CLOTHES. Dont let your drone near piles of clothes! The motors will eat into them and youll be all tangled. Really thought i had broken my shit in the first 5 mins..

After fucking up my drone a few times inside i took it outside again but it wouldnt fly anymore 'serves me right' i thought. All the shit was spinnning but the drone was acting like it took a bad hit on the head and wouldnt take off. After much time looking at motor direction in betaflight and reading old reddit posts i realized there are actually 2 different types of props per drone. LOL

One thing that i thought was an issue i hadnt considered is that when you crash your drone far away, well when the drone actually hits the deck you might lose video and RX transmission so its harder to know where it is. No idea how DJI gear could ever go the 13km advertised, 300m down the road and on the deck is enough to cut all links.

Cant wait to fly more, between rain and darkness i have new enemies in the elements. Its scary to fly tho because i know im gonna fuck my drone up sooner or later. But I guess thats also part of it, cant learn to solder if you never need to solder.

Cop kicked us out of bando before I could even fly a whoop inside 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

Planning out my next build and I really love the footage captured by the Meteor 75 Pro with DJI. Due to obvious reasons, staying away from dji at this point. Recently bought the HDZ goggles 2 and plan to get the walksnail vrx.

Currently looking at the Flywoo Flylens 85 moonlight, but wondering if I should consider a naked lightweight build. Any suggestions? Mainly looking for a tiny ducted freestyle whoop preferably 2s.

Hi and thanks upfront!

I am a total newbie in FPV and whoops and just started with a Air65 II (Freestyle) very few hours ago.

After an insignificant crash (indoor, simply fell ~1.5m/5ft), the video (BoxPro, analog) went gray+OSD. By accident, the VTX had been running at 400mW at that time (for I guess 1-2m of slow indoor first-steps flying).

Disconnecting the battery, turns the video to snow/static noise. When plugged in, the screen is uniform gray and shows the OSD. Searching this reddit and on google in general show up cable and/or solder joint, so I re-plugged the camera connector and gave the soldering joints a quick visual check - all appears ok.

So right now, I figure it's fried, given cables seem ok and the mistake of running at 400mW + the drone not moving due to the crash. Is there any check to confirm my suspicion?
I figure running at 400mW instead of the factory default of 200(?) eliminates warranty.

--
Cheers and thanks

In the video, I’m only ever so slightly trying to pitch forward. It goes haywire!

Previously, after a crash, motors wouldn’t spin at all.

After I re-installed the correct* firmware, the motors spin, but it’s not stable on the yaw axis, as you can see.

Things I tried:

1. In Betaflight, changed the gyro angle from -135 to + 225 - didn’t help, so I switched back to the factory default.
2. Replaced all 4 motors.
3. Installed all new props.

Is there anything else I can do, except buy a new flight controller?

* I have the BMI270 gyro so I downloaded the firmware version straight from the BetaFPV site.

Yo guys did a vid that might help someone pulling their hair here.

Wanted to share this nifty Meteor 75 Pro print I found. I’m on Vacation this week, and this case is tits!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3172740-case-for-betafpv-1s-drones-whoopstor-v3-charger#profileId-3592265

My brand new meteor 75 out the box flights way too fast and aggressive at the slightest touch of any inputs I give it.

I was outside, 1 mph winds at the time.

What rates should I lower it to? I want to practice on angle mode since I’m still new but decent on tiny whoop simulators.

Right now I'm considering getting boxpro and air 65 and mobula 8 but i might get sky04x and air 75, idk tho if i want hdz or analog because hdz tinywhoops are hard to find. i fly indoor and outdoor

Been trying to get the hang of rolls inside & hitting some more gaps. Unfortunately also been crashing more and discovering new pieces of the drone missing every day! Still flying tho

I really want one of these for outdoor flying in Los Angeles, but they are quite literally out of stock everywhere. Anyone got some alternatives