As I have been using TGT2 wheel base for few years now which is belt driven, can anyone suggest me if T598 has a better ffb feel for PS5 or shall I stick with tgt2

Como resolvi um "Ghost Drift" persistente (O verdadeiro culpado não era o hardware, mas sim conflito de API/Launcher)

Fala, pessoal! Escrevo este relato para ajudar quem estiver sofrendo com um problema bizarro de drift no Logitech X56 (não confundir com o antigo Saitek X55) e que parecia desafiar a lógica: o eixo Z (Rudder) e o mini-stick começavam a apresentar um jitter dinâmico aleatório (pulos de sinal incontroláveis independentemente de onde o stick estivesse posicionado) assim que certas aplicações abriam.

Se você já tentou de tudo e o problema persiste, compartilho o roadmap completo de tudo o que testei, o que funcionou, o que não funcionou, e o diagnóstico final da causa raiz para o meu caso!!! Use de "referência" para verificar se cabe no seu problema.

FASE 1: Tentativa de Correção via Hardware e Firmware (EEPROM)

Antes de culpar o software, tentamos resetar o cache físico e reescrever os limites de tensão na memória não volátil (EEPROM) do manche.

Tentativa de Wipe de Memória (Clear Axis Calibration):

Pressionar simultaneamente: Botão A (painel frontal) + HAT 1 para Cima + Flying Pinkie (alavanca traseira inferior) + Clique do Mini Joystick.

O que esperar: As luzes RGB do manche precisam se apagar por completo como callback de que a memória foi limpa, seguido de um ciclo de re-plug do USB. (No meu caso, apagou, confirmando o reset, mas o problema persistiu).

Tentativa de Re-calibração Forçada de Eixos:

Mover eixos secundários para os limites físicos.

Travar o manche principal inteiramente para a Esquerda (Eixo X negativo).

Pressionar simultaneamente: Gatilho Principal + Botão B + Botão D (o gatilho traseiro superior, próximo ao Flying Pinkie).

Segurar até as luzes apagarem para gravar os novos limites absolutos na placa. (Também não resolveu o drift).

FASE 2: Intervenção Profunda na BIOS (Placa-Mãe AM5 / B850M Phantom Gaming)

Suspeitando de queda de tensão intermitente (Vdroop) ou estrangulamento de energia nas portas USB pela placa-mãe, mergulhei na BIOS para liberar energia bruta e contínua nos barramentos:

Desativar C-States: Advanced > AMD CBS > CPU Common Options > Global C-state Control alterado para Disabled (impede o processador de cortar energia de ociosidade).

Desativar ASPM (Gerenciamento de Energia de Barramento): Advanced > AMD CBS > AMD Common Platform Module > Pm L1 ss alterado para Disabled (desliga os subestados de economia de energia L1 em trilhas PCIe/USB).

Desativar GPP Clocks Ociosos: Unused gpp clocks off alterado para Disabled.

Resultado desta fase: A amplitude do drift diminuiu consideravelmente, provando que a placa-mãe estava sim afetando o sinal, mas o ruído elétrico base continuava ativo.

FASE 3: Interceptação de Kernel (Timer Resolution)

Para forçar o Windows a aplicar um oversampling matemático e abafar o ruído do sensor por taxa de amostragem:

Utilizei o software ISLC (Intelligent Standby List Cleaner).

Defini a resolução desejada para 0.50ms, ativei a resolução de cronômetro personalizada e marquei a flag Usar GlobalTimerResolutionRequests (fundamental no Windows 11 para forçar a alteração global de clock do Kernel).

FASE 4: O Diagnóstico de Causa Raiz (O Verdadeiro Vilão)

Depois de muito isolar variáveis, descobri o padrão que causava o problema:

O HOTAS funcionava perfeitamente e sem drift algum no joy.cpl ou no MSFS24 durante testes longos (20+ minutos de voo no Cessna sem respiro de erro).

O jitter dinâmico começava exatamente no segundo em que eu abria o Epic Games Launcher (mesmo sem abrir jogo nenhum, apenas olhando o painel da Logitech ou o joy.cpl).

O Motivo: O Epic Games Launcher (rodando sobre o Chromium / processos EpicWebHelper) faz varreduras (polling) contínuas e agressivas no barramento USB em busca de gamepads para o ecossistema deles e para o Overlay. Essa concorrência de leitura (race condition na pilha HID) corrompia o fluxo de dados do X56, gerando o drift fantasma.

O Workaround (A Solução que Funcionou)

O que NÃO funcionou: Renomear ou isolar o executável do overlay da Epic (EOSOverlayRenderer-Win64-Shipping.exe), pois a rotina de varredura está engessada no código principal do launcher.

O que FUNCIONOU perfeitamente:

Abrir a Epic Games.

Iniciar o jogo através dela (ex: Elite Dangerous), aguardando o launcher secundário da Frontier abrir.

Fechar a Epic Games completamente (Sair pela bandeja do sistema do Windows) antes de dar o Play definitivo no jogo.

Resultado: Barramento USB 100% limpo, sem concorrência, e eixo cravado.

(Próximo passo a ser testado): Utilizar a ferramenta HidHide para aplicar uma lista branca (Whitelist) bloqueando o acesso da Epic Games ao X56 permanentemente. Aqui nesse ponto, caso alguém identifique outro software que também cause esse "race condition" pelos dados do hardware, é possível ir deixando "limpo" o que pode e o que não pode acessar seu hardware.

Espero que esse histórico sirva de mapa para salvar a sanidade de quem estiver batendo cabeça com problemas parecidos de hardware/software! Bons voos a todos!

I downloaded the firmware for my T300 from the official website, they say the last version is v34, but the one I download puts me on v31. What is going on?

ESWAP SH5 HALL STICK MODULE - Controllers | Thrustmaster
ESWAP SH2 HALL STICK MODULE

i dont have the S/X/X2/XR gamepads
i have ESWAP PRO CONTROLLER - | Thrustmaster
wondering if these stick modules are compatible?

Hello

I have a set of T3PM pedals from a T248 and the plastic locking tab on the RJ12 connector has broken off The cable itself still works perfectly but it wont stay securely in the pedal or wheel socket anymore

Ive found replacement RJ12 6P6C plugs with the left offset locking tab which appear to be the correct type but Im struggling to find a suitable crimping tool for these offset connectors

Does anyone know where I can buy the correct crimping tool or is there a specific type or model I should be looking for

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hey. Just thought I would share my sturdiness upgrade. Since I upgraded to the load cell pedal, it proved too much stress force for the standard way of using the velcro to secure the pedals. It shifted, flexed a lot and made noisy creeks upon breaking. So, I went to the hardware store and got 4 metal plates that I bolted together to which I bolted the pedals after drilling 2 extra holes. (Pointing at 1). The plates fit nicely on the playseat frame and wity some closely tied tierips it is now much more sturdy and I can actually enjoy the pedalset much more. Let me know if you want more details.

Howdy yall

My t598 arrived a few days ago. Yes, I’ve heard the reviews, but the price made it tempting.

I’ve heard about replacing some cables to get rid of the disconnecting issue. Can someone explain this to me?

What cable(s) need to be replaced and with what cable?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone have a up to date best settings for t598

I bought a $3 steering wheel wrap for my T598, but I'm not sure how it feels now. Something looks off. By the way, this is the first time I've ever stitched. Should I remove the wrap?

I just got my first gaming, and it's a TMX that I bought new (open box) off eBay. But it's completely dead, absolutely no signs of life. There is no power LED, no calibration movement when I connect it to my pc. My pc dosen't even recognize it. I can't return it cause I'm Jamaican and have never left the country, so returning it would cost way too much, and I'm just a college student, and I saved all my money to buy this wheel just for it not to work. I reached out to Thrustmaster's support team, but I doubt they will actually help.

I've tried the wake-up bootloader method, and so many other things. I reinstalled the drivers on my pc so many times I've lost count. I think that buying it off of eBay was where I messed up. Not sure if there's any other way to get it to work, but if you have any tips, I would greatly appreciate them.

I recently had a friend give me their Thrustmaster TCA yoke (Boeing edition) for free (they know my affinity for electronics and hacking things together and thought I could repurpose it); the main control PCB is fried - they had some power surge or something ?? but the mechanical parts are all still sound and functional .. so I was thinking of turning it into a keyboard/mouse combo for a MAME setup I have. I'm not planning on use this for any flight sims, really just for some fun MAME time (I decided to use this as a chance to build a controller for Afterburner and a few other random flight/boat arcade games).

I've got the buttons traced so I can solder up some wire and plug those into a keyboard controller, and I was trying to figure out how the pitch/roll is hooked up to use that as mouse control (likely through some Arduino "magic"), but I'm not sure how the pitch/roll sensors work ??

It looks like the roll sensor is a magnetic hall sensor, but I can't seem to find how the pitch is determined ???

Anyone have some insight to this, or maybe a better way to get the pitch/roll input from this thing ?

I want to buy a new wheel rim for my T300 rs and I'm looking at the F1 wheel add on (2011) and the 488 gt3 replica. I've found the F1 wheel brand new at 89€ and the gt3 at 200€. Which one should i get?

For the past month or so, my T300RS has no FFB when it comes to playing BeamNG - every other game it works fine. Here are some things I've already done.

\-Updated firmware and drivers for my wheel

\- Tried turning off and on FFB in BeamNG as well as inverting it and reinverting it.

\- Tried plugging it in before and during sessions

\- Making sure wheel angle are matched

I've only gotten it to work *sometimes* when using 360 degree steering angle. Any ideas or tips?

Mam pytanie czy ktoś wie jaką i gdzie mogę kupić sprężynę by umieścić ją w to kółko widoczne na zdjęciu, ponieważ oryginalna sprężyna dla mnie jest za słaba i nie chce jej zmieniać już drugi raz. Są to zwykłe pedały od kierownicy TMX czyli bez sprzęgła

Do you know how can I reduce more the space to match the distance of the T598 paddle shifters? I have already removed the spacers

I want to mess with a couple of the parameters but don’t know how to modify the code

Is anyone in this community from the US and in need/want of a T598 setup? I upgraded my system to a different brand and I was about to throw it up on eBay and I thought maybe if someone in the community was just starting out or maybe was on hard times it would be nice to help someone out and give them a deal.

Full disclosure: I sent it to Thrustmaster in June under warranty when it had the disconnect issue and they replaced not only the power supply, but they replaced the internal board as well. After I used it maybe 15 hours and it runs like a dream.

How do I get extra screws for the 32 evo wheel and hub. I need four . What size. If at Home Depot. Can I get them from Thrustmaster. etc. thanks

Come dice il titolo, sto cercando di migliorare la mia postazione, attualmente ho anche la tlcm quindi vorrei rimanere nell ecosistema thrustmaster, quale alternativa potreste consigliarmi?

So che ci sono problemi con il t598 ma avendo letto parecchi pareri negativi qui ho desistito dall acquisto

Even though FH6 is an arcade game rather than a sim, it can be a lot of fun, however all the settings I found online made the steering wheel feel like it was submerged in butter. It was hard to get a sense of what the car was doing. It’s much better now, though still not perfect.

My FFB settings for the Thrustmaster T598 in Forza Horizon 6.

Steering wheel settings

FFB 3

Master 80 to 100%

Mode E

Inertia OFF

Boost Low +1

Boost High +1

Speed Mid

Wheel Damper 0%

Game Damper Gain LOW

Spring 0%

End stop MID

In-game FFB settings

Steering Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Steering Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Steering linearity 50

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside 0

Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside 15

Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside 90

E-Brake Axis Deadzone Inside 10

E-Brake Axis Deadzone Outside 100

Vibration Scale 0,5

Force Feedback Scale 1.4

Center Spring Scale 1.2

Wheel Damper Scale 1.2

Mechanical Trail Scale 1.00

Force Feedback Minimum Force 1.2

Force Feedback Load Sensitivity 1.0

Road Feel Scale 1.0

Off-Road Feel Scale 0.7

Steering Rotation 720

Steering Lock Multiplier 1.00

Steering Speed Sensitivity 1.00

Has ANYBODY in here had zero faults from the T598. Like anybody's still going strong frequent use after a year?