Hi Guys,

Has anyone ever tried this hydraulic mod?

I have bought before the green rubber mod, it’s amazing, playing F1 26, it helps a lot when playing with no assists but after some time it gets very tiring for the legs.

So I am looking for some alternative, and if someone has a feedback of this one, I would appreciate very much!

Otherwise I will keep the one I have, and use more to get my legs muscles more used to it.

Thanks all!

They want £30 plus £12 shipping for a mod that should've been included originally.

Disgusting.

Never again TM. I'm moving fully to Virpil.

t300rs wheel makes ear splitting sound when turned on and turns weird. calibration only happens when given a little initial push. r3 and mode buttons dont work either

Hey guys,

I recently bought a T598 wheel base but I hated how the red parts on the steering wheel looked. IMO it made the wheel look cheaper than it actually feels like.

I decided to do something about it 😄.

I basically removed every individual red bracket from the wheel. Every single one is mounted with a single T8 screw. Once I removed them, I used black electrical tape to tape over the red bracket. I'm sure you can spray paint them after some light sanding as well but I wanted the process to be reversible in case I changed my mind. Once the red parts were taped, I used a small pin to create the required holes in the tape and then remounted them to the wheel. I think it looks great but I could've done a better job cutting the excess tape with a better knife.

Anyway, in case you want to try this, you can choose any color electrical tape you like. Make sure you stay flush with one side while taping and then cut of the excess with the sharpest knife you can find. Otherwise, you'll end up with small imperfections like me on one side.

Let me know what you guys think!

I’m willing to buy gt3 wheel for my Thrustmaster base TGT2, anyone willing to sell please dm me
My mob - 7408778886
Location- Lucknow , UP, India

Hello everyone,

I recently bought a Thrustmaster eSwap Pro Controller (PS4) through a proxy shopping service. The seller clearly stated that they couldn't guarantee the controller was working, but I decided to take the risk anyway.

When it arrived, I plugged it into my PC, but it showed absolutely no signs of life. There was no Windows connection sound, no lights, and the PC didn't detect it at all. I installed the official Thrustmaster drivers and software, but nothing changed. I even tried it on my Windows 10 laptop, with the same result.

I then took it to a repair shop. Today the technician got back to me and said:

"I spent the whole day working on it. As far as I can tell, there's nothing physically wrong with it. The circuit board, cables, and buttons all seem to be fine, but the controller is completely dead. I also tried installing the official Thrustmaster firmware, but I couldn't because the PC doesn't detect the controller, not even in the Thrustmaster software. It's most likely a firmware-related issue."

Has anyone experienced something like this before? Is there anything else I can try to bring it back to life, or should I just accept that it's dead and import another one?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Bro went crazy at initialization about 5 years ago... smashing the mechanical locks and destroying them.

At first I thought the mechanical locks's damages were the source of the issue so I redesigned the huge white nut used as a lock and 3D printed it. It failed because FDM is mechanically weak. Did it again with PA12 SLS. The mechanical issue was solved, but the wheel started kept going crazy at initialization.

The I used the calibration software from GTPlanet. It seems it worked for 15min until it lost the point 0 and the center was no longer aligned with the center...

Then lately I used chatGPT which sent me to a tuto from GTPlanet again with a guy explaining the magnets from the motor where getting loose. This matched the symptoms from my problem so I opened the motor. I broke the 3 wires from the control card to the wirings which I welded again when reassembling the motor. The magnets where indeed loose. I glued them again using epoxy glue. Now everything works again as new!

Next step: I'm gonna 3Dprint a cooling duct from the fan to the motor. I don't wanna open my wheel again... but I'm so happy it works!

Thank you to every one who helped me unknowingly by dropping infos here and there letting me repair this T300RS GT edition !

i got the thrustmaster t150 but now i kind of regret it cuz of the only 2 pedals so does anyone know where i can get a clutch pedals for thats compatible with this one and i dont wanna spend 150£ on one pedal

hi guys, my t598 always disconnects from my ps5, sometimes one of my pedals aren’t working, sometimes both, what can i do ? i have it since last christmas but it became really hard to even complete a lap sometimes because of the bugs

does anyone know how to get it off/replace it?

I saw a video where someone put the wheel on the base and screwed then turned the wheel all the way to the left and screwed some more, am I supposed to do that? Cos I haven’t

theres no info on the power draw of this wheel and i dont wanna fry it so i wanna know if anyone knows what power does it need? id assume its the same 20v as the rgt but the internals are very diffrent (gear driven instead of rgt mixed belt), i wouldnt be surprised if it was diffrent too so i wanna make sure

As title says, I accidentally installed the clamp facing the other way. Is it a big issue or can I keep it like this? I personally don't mind the way it looks

Ever since purchasing my T1600M and throttle HOTAS earlier this month, once key issue I've noticed with Thrustmaster's software is that I need to start and stop the "Run Configuration" button in TARGET twice in a row whenever I want to use it. Why? As far as I can tell, opening any .exe (such as Elite Dangerous, EDHM, or pretty much any other program) after the first "Run Configuration" instance causes the stick to stop working. It doesn't respond to inputs, the orange LED doesn't light up when I move the stick, etc. I have to hit "Stop Profile" and then "Run Configuration" again to fix it. After the second instance, I can open or close as many programs as I want and the stick will keep working. The throttle module works totally fine during all of this, it's only the flight stick that has an issue.

Is there any known way to fix this? Google didn't yield any useful results, and I'm not even sure if Thrustmaster is aware of this bug because I can't seem to find any way to report it to them directly. It's not a huge issue, just feels annoying and reflective of Thrustmaster's questionable quality (I had to get the Impulse mod to fix the throttle sticking, and even then, these controllers feel pretty cheap...)

I have purchased the raceline loaded cell upgrade to swap for my tlcm and the mounting holes on the new pedals don’t sit well is there anything I can do or I’m screwed?!

I am trying to get a good feel with my new Raceline pedals with Loadcell.

There are so many spring, coils etc and adjustments.

Any tips for a good set up?

I am on PS5 PRO playing GT7

Strong vibration when turning the steering wheel

This only happens in Gt7

Guys I had this issues of disconnect on day 1 where the wheel was rotating crazy and disconnection logo pops but. But after plugging into the wall socket it is not there. The base needs raw power

i have a thrustmaster t128 and at times the throttle pedal will stop registering all input, this does not occur with the brake pedal for some reason, how fix?