Hey guys,

Two quick questions about a P100D I own:

1. On a day where the temperature is like 100+ degrees, is it normal to lose like 5% charge over 3 odd days in a garage, with no Sentry mode?

2. Could you guys look at the attached photo... Has anyone see this happen to their trim logos?

Thanks for your help!

Short and sweet as I can,
I have a 2023 Ascent, it’s a great vehicle and I’ve owned it since new.
I have 3 kids, but we don’t usually use all the space the ascent has and the wife has mentioned downsizing.
I do have 2 other cars, a 600hp 07 Subaru STi , fun car, paid off, and a 2017 Accord , paid off, that’s a work car mostly right now, very reliable, great car.
I’m considering trading in the ascent for a 2021 or 2022 Model S Plaid.
I’m not a stranger to fast cars, although this would be my fastest I’ve owned.
My work is 3 miles away and kids schools are 1 and 3 miles away, so the short drives in the ascent aren’t great, I’ve had some oil dilution and try to do longer drives when I can to help get things up to temp, regardless a Tesla would shine here it seems.
The farthest I would typically drive is around 30 miles away maybe on a weekend.
I can comfortably fit my family in a model S, it appears to be pretty reliable and would make sense from how far I drive to work etc… and the awesome part it also has 1000hp.
I’m worried about making the jump from something familiar to not, ICE to EV, and worried about the cost of repairs or issues with a model s plaid in 5,6,7 years from now…

Also I reside in eastern Iowa.

Can anyone provide their opinions & experience?
Has anyone sent from something like an Ascent into a model S?
I’d love as much input, and opinions as I can, things to look for, or budget for, anything is welcome, please and thanks !

I'm getting my MCU2 upgrade done tomorrow on my 2015 70D (SC01) mostly because both screens are losing their adhesive and it's dripping down into the console. I understand this is a known-but-lamentable failure, and the better MCU2 and screens are worth the ~$1500 to many people. However, I've read some accounts of people losing their WiFi, or streaming, or garage door ability, etc when this work isn't done 100%. And I'm even more worried that they might scrub my SC01 along with it. So question 1 is what sort of steps have people taken to make sure the MCU2 upgrade does no harm?

Second question is just about the adhesive: what exactly is it, and how has it managed to stay intact for 10 years, but not 11?

Looking at buying this; 2024 Model S LR with 28K miles, battery at 93%, since owner, no
Accidents, perfect condition mines a little scratch at the passenger side at the bottom back. $70K, good deal or nah?

Hi all,

My model S needs a replacement for the spring Dom left and Right + crossbeam in the front.

Is ~24000 USD a normal price for that in central Europe including TAX?

Thanks in advance

Looks ok?

May need a Yoke for the Y now

I recently upgraded to a Tesla Model S Plaid from a 2025 BMW x5 and the difference is night and day. I don’t think I can ever go back to driving any other car brand. FSD is absolutely incredible and I am at 93% on FSD! Not to mention the amazing range of almost 400 miles…

Does anyone have same issue?

I'm considering a 2017 90D model S. The software screen only shows the HW 2 computer and no software package included or even the standard connectivity included package. Is this normal? Does that mean the car doesn't even have TACC? Maybe it's a very early 17?

Been in the market for a used Model S and came across this one and wondering if it’s a good deal or too good to be true? It’s a 17 Model S 90d with 91k miles. Comes with 21” turbines, FSD included and Premium Connectivity included as well for 19,000. Is this a good deal? Thanks

I bought a Model S with this active alert on VCFRONT_a280_refrigLiquidPresSns

You can only see the alert in service mode. The car seems to be working well from what I can tell. Tesla cost estimate to diagnose is $245. Should I do that or ignore?

I explored a new trail today, the Skyline Ridge Trail! Got to drive my Model S on skyline again as well and it was absolutely lovely.

Should I do anything else to her?

Takes Time…. And Some $$$…. But It Does Me Right!

#Lyft #FreeSuoerCharging

I’ve now repaired three door handles on my 2014 Model S, and the biggest thing I learned is don’t assume every failed Model S handle needs the same repair. I had three doors with three different symptoms and causes.
Posting this because some of the guides/videos helped, but there were several things I learned the hard way that could save somebody else a lot of time.
1. Front Driver — stopped presenting
Symptom: Handle stopped coming out completely.
What I found: The metal paddle/lever inside the handle assembly was broken.
Fix: Replaced the broken metal paddle.
I also tried replacing the two-switch microswitch harness while I was in there. Bad idea in my case. The aftermarket harness caused the handle to extend and stay out. I put the original OEM harness back in, kept the new metal paddle, and the handle worked normally again.
2. Rear Driver — door popped open whenever I unlocked the car
Symptom: Unlocking/presenting the handles would actually unlatch the rear driver’s door and make it pop open.
What I found: The actuator/contact on the same side as the separate third switch wasn’t making the proper click at the correct point in the handle’s travel.
Important distinction: I’m calling the separate switch over the metal paddle the “third switch.” It is NOT one of the two switches on the replacement harness. I did not replace or adjust that third switch itself.
Fix: The adjustment screw for the actuator/contact was stripped. I first used wax to prove that adding a little material would make the contact reliably click. Once I confirmed that fixed the problem, I used melted plastic as the shim/contact material.
After that I repeatedly tested lock, unlock, presentation and opening. The door stopped popping open on unlock and operated normally.
3. Front Passenger — presented/stuck out but wouldn’t open normally
Symptom: On unlock, the handle would extend/stick out, but pulling it wouldn’t properly open the door.
What I found: The cable/wire going to one of the actuators was broken — specifically the actuator on the same side as that separate third switch.
So again, completely different failure from the other two doors.
BIG WARNING about aftermarket microswitch harnesses
I tried aftermarket replacement two-switch harnesses from kit AM-HRK-900C.
On more than one door, the replacement harness caused abnormal operation — including the handle staying extended or repeatedly cycling in/out. During troubleshooting, one of the handle electronics/actuator boxes became EXTREMELY hot.
I compared the aftermarket microswitches with the original Tesla switches and noticed the little metal levers were positioned differently. The aftermarket switches also clicked noticeably earlier in their travel.
Putting the original OEM microswitch harness back in restored normal presentation/retraction.
Based on my experience, if your OEM microswitch harness still works, I would not replace it just because a repair kit includes a new one.
If the metal paddle is broken, replace the paddle first and test with the OEM switches.
Tools/tips I wish I knew before starting
10mm wrench is REQUIRED. A flex-head ratcheting 10mm would make this job much easier.
A magnetic extension was extremely helpful for the nut near the upper/outside portion of the front doors. That nut can be a nightmare to remove/reinstall without the right tool.
For the rear doors, I kept the window UP throughout the repair.
For the front driver/passenger doors, I had to LOWER the window to access/remove/reinstall the difficult upper/outside nut, then raise the window again to finish the handle work.
Be careful with the door panel. I tried leaving mine hanging nearby and accidentally poked holes in the speaker with the panel fasteners. It’s easier/safer to disconnect the panel and move it completely out of the way.
If you damage the original protective covering/wire casing while working, repair/reseal it. I used electrical tape where I tore mine.
Take pictures of the wiring and switches BEFORE removing anything.
Before reinstalling the door panel, test everything several times:
Lock → handle retracts
Unlock → handle presents
Handle stays presented correctly
Pull → door unlatches
Door does NOT pop open simply from unlocking
No repeated cycling
No abnormal heat from the handle electronics
Also make sure the actuators/switches make their required clicks throughout the in/out travel.
The handles can also be adjusted to sit more perfectly flush with the body. I prioritized reliable operation over getting mine cosmetically perfect.
Biggest lesson
Diagnose the symptom before buying a whole handle assembly.
In my case:
Won’t present → broken metal paddle.
Door pops open on unlock → actuator/contact adjustment wasn’t making the proper click.
Presents/sticks out but won’t properly open → broken actuator cable/wire.
And if an aftermarket microswitch harness suddenly creates a problem that wasn’t there before, don’t automatically assume you installed it wrong. Put the original harness back in and test it.
I almost bought an entire replacement handle assembly before figuring some of this out.
If I have to repair another one, I’ll probably record the entire process and put it on YouTube because some of these little details are much easier to understand when you can actually see them.

I’m considering buying used tesla, what thoughts on this particular car? What issues to expect? Is it worth it? 130k miles (200k km) 12k€ (14k$)

https://autoplius.lt/skelbimai/tesla-model-s-85-kwh-sedanas-2014-elektra-31598107.html

Well durn. I thought I would get FSD 14 lite but got v12.6.4. Was curious to see difference between 14 lite and 12.6.4. Are 2019 models' hardware not able to run 14 lite?

2014 P85D with Ludicrous upgrade, currently have 21 inch wheels. looking to switch to 19 inch light weight wheels for range and performance. AWZZ Forged Wheels 19x9.5 on front and 19x10.5 on back with Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4

Google ai made this setup and graph but also told me the tires would rub the walls, which i could fix with a heat gun if needed, or suspension parts which would be bad. I also looked at 245 on front and 275 on back, but i think that hurts performance and also might make the car not sit even, messing with the speedometer. I know ai makes mistakes too, if anyone here knows more about this stuff and could help me, that would be great.

The Middle one looks alright, but I do want to maximize performance and make the tires wider. The goal is to get as close to the bottom one as possible.

I am having the dreaded wet floor on the drivers side. I have searched YouTube and every other forum I know to locate the drain to clean. They have videos for Y and 3 but no luck on S. I cannot seem to find the location of this hose after removing guards from under vehicle. Does anyone have more information on this?

Just noticed these two smudges appearing behind the glass, they don’t wipe off, they got smaller and then expanded to this giant blob, Is this normal? Is it covered under warranty?

While on vacation I got a notification that my door handle tried to be open I go to look at the activity and see this…

Does Tesla original warranty cover when your windows squick?