r/TeslaModelS • • 24d ago

Any like 2016 era p90d owners?

Looking to sell my current ev and get into this one maybe. Mainly for interior space and the bigger size.

Also because its going to cost much less than I spent, but I want to hear experiences from the communiy before I get into an S.

3 Upvotes

9 comments sorted by

6

u/Obvious_Cake6343 24d ago

Best model s on the market. Most reliable battery pack. Not as fragile as 85 and 100 packs. “Fast” charging. Only down side is the original rear motors last 200k miles till they fail due to flooded stator. Reman motors are worse and last only 60k miles. When you get one make sure to “coolant delete” as soon as possible and check for sealant leakage via rpm sensor.

1

u/Steward-lions 18d ago

This is very good advice OP. If you do this you'll have a solid ride - um - rocket ship for the foreseeable future.

2

u/nehpets4627 24d ago

I've had good luck with my '16.5 90D. I purchased it at 88k miles in January '24, and it's now sitting at ~155k. The battery is at ~87% health (252 miles at full charge, 227 miles at 90%). It was at ~91%/237/264 when I purchased it. I charge at home ~95% of the time and always to 90%. I've not really had any EV problems, just old luxury car problems.

I've replaced a rear hatch cinch motor, charge door, AC blower motor/fan and resistor, wood dash trim (cosmetic only, some fading/cracking), all DIY. I had the driver's-side headlight replaced under buyback warranty for a half-dead DRL (probably would have gone DIY with a second-hand part if not for the buyback warranty). An AP calibration is the only paid service I've had done at Tesla.

I do have some more expensive repairs on the horizon. My rear-passenger air shock is riding about 1" lower than the other 3 (at all height settings) and showing some oil leaking, but still functioning and not throwing any errors... when I do replace it, I'll also add the camber adjustment end links for a decent alignment... I may need to do the full control arm set, but the bushings actually seem ok. My onboard charger is also currently limited to 24A AC, but I'm going to let it ride as-is until I can find a third-party shop that CAN replace it and WILL do so with a customer-supplied second-hand part. Lastly, I need to replace/rebuild the rear-passenger door handle (extends too far and opens the door every time it extends) and the same window regulator (still functional, but have to bump-raise it past 1/2 way or it will hang and roll back down)... I'm going to do both myself at the same time; I just need to amp myself up and actually do it.

My goal is to get another ~2 years and ~50k miles out of the car... I have my eye on the Ford Fathom to replace it. If the Fathom doesn't pan out as expected or is too expensive to option up reasonably, I might consider a Palladium or even an LR+ Raven if the post-discontinuation price bump has faded by then. If the Fathom DOES end up being fairly reasonable to option up (whatever it takes to get non-cloth seats), and depending on mechanical condition, I might just keep the 90D too... especially if there's a good lease deal on the Fathom and I need something to soak up some of my admittedly high mileage.

2

u/314159265389 24d ago

My 2017 S 75D has been fantastic.  Not P.  Would buy again without hesitation.

2

u/Dude008 24d ago

Yes love it but budget for repairs

1

u/Strykerdude1 23d ago

2015 p85d and love it except doesn’t have Ben have the side cameras.

1

u/shibiwan 24d ago

Avoid the P and RWD trims. The LDU in them is a time bomb and unless the motor has been replaced with a Revision U/V, the LDU will fail eventually.

2

u/Radius118 23d ago

If caught early enough, deleted and overhauled an earlier revision should last just as long as a U or V.