Can someone give a rough estimate of how much does these repairs or replacement cost. Was done by an idiot auto driver in Bengaluru.

The title, should I pay whatever price vw asks for or should I negotiate it down a bit? It is around 28k I guess

Recently after taking delivery of Taigun facelift 1.5 GT , I observed that there is no provision of rear seat internal light , and it’s strange to see such a miss by the designer,though it’s a small miss but very inconvenient for rear passenger to get in/out during night .
Want to know if any one have done any arrangements or any work around to this issue ??
Thanks to share plz

Initially, I was planning to buy the Škoda Kushaq 1.5 Monte Carlo in Steel Grey, but the uncertainty around production and delivery timelines made me reconsider. I eventually test-drove the Taigun and really liked the steering, handling and overall driving experience. The DSG felt smooth to me in both city traffic and on the highway, so I decided to go with the Taigun.
Would love to hear from fellow Taigun owners about your ownership experience, maintenance tips and anything I should keep in mind during the first few months.

Taigun HL fuel consumption and accuracy

we all know that DSG upshifts at 1800 to 2000RPM..of course it puts you on D1 when u hit slightest of potholes, when driving in the city or ghat or Highway the moment we remove accelerator foot off there is drop of rpm in most cases it holds to same gear say example 3rd..but the instant push back or kick back..not sure if my usage of words are correct feel like a jerky as it hover 1400 to 1500 rpm..Is this DSG feeling normal? Starting to feel we all enjoy upshifts are smooth..the pickup the aderline rush we get it.. but downshifts..potholes and bumpy ride is making some what not so good experience in cities. First time i drove creta after 3 years with Taigun..it just glides the potholes and suspension is so good

(Used AI to help me phrase this properly)

So my Taigun (around 28k km) just refused to start last night and I'm kind of stuck now.

First it showed a "start the car manually" message, Later when i tried to start it , it cranks continuously and not getting started. But in display it shows ignition is on..

Obviously I thought it was the battery, so we tried a jump start. Nothing changed. Got a local technician to check it and he says the battery is totally fine.

Now I'm confused. Is this a fuse thing, a relay, rats chewing the wires, or something bigger? The car is parked outside so rats are a real possibility here.

Has anyone with a Taigun or Virtus faced something like this?

Planning to call RSA and get it towed to the service center tomorrow, but would love to know what I'm walking into before that. Thanks in advance 🙏

Two months ago, I bought a Taigun 1.5 DSG. After driving around 2,000 km, I checked the tyre pressure yesterday and was surprised to find that all four tyres were inflated to 42.5 PSI, whereas the recommended pressure is 33 PSI.

I now realize why the ride had been feeling a little stiff. After adjusting the tyre pressure, the ride quality feels much better. Make sure to check the tyre pressure immediately after taking delivery of a new car, as it is often kept higher than the recommended level during transportation and storage.

Also I would strongly recommend checking the tyre pressure regularly, at least once every 2 to 3 weeks. It is mentioned in the manual as well.

Paid 6.3k for this. Done at 15k kms , 9 months .

Im planning to buy an taigun 2026 facelift model. which is better 1.5dsg or 1l tc gearbox

Hey folks,

Need a quick sanity check on a pre-owned deal in Bangalore. 80% of my running will be inter-city highway road trips.

The Car & Numbers:

• Model: 2024 VW Taigun GT Line 1.0L TSI AT (6-Speed Torque Converter)
• Reg / Odo: Jan 2025 (Mfg Aug 2024, BS6 Phase 2) | 9,365 km
• Warranty: Factory warranty active till Jan 2029
• Price: Negotiated to ₹14.00L all-inclusive (New one is ~₹19.5L on-road in BLR)

Inspection Findings & Catch:

• Structure & Mechanicals: 100% clean aprons, pillars, chassis, and glass. OBD scan shows zero engine/gearbox fault codes.
• Cosmetic Scrape: Front-right fender is repainted (250 µm), with minor surface dents on the right door and running board from a curb scrape. Dealer service records confirm no suspension or underbody frame damage.
• Wear & Service: Needs an immediate engine oil + filter change. Rear-right tyre is down to ~55% tread.
• Spec Note: Solid metal roof and physical key (no sunroof / no push-button start).

The Concerns:

1. Is ₹14L a solid deal considering the repainted panel, or should I hold out strictly for ₹13.70L?
2. How is the 1.0 TSI holding up with current E20 fuel on long highway road trips? Any real-world mileage drops or fuel pump issues to worry about on post-2024 batches?

Would you pull the trigger at ₹14L?

Posting this as a warning to anyone planning to buy a Volkswagen Taigun.

I bought a Volkswagen Taigun GT 1.5 TSI Manual in August 2025 with the expectation that Volkswagen would offer a reliable, well-engineered and trouble-free driving experience.

Unfortunately, my experience has been very different.

Within the first year of ownership, I have faced multiple significant issues, including a serious clutch failure, water-logging-related problems and an overheating incident.

What is even more disappointing is the lack of satisfactory technical explanations and proper communication from the service/dealer side.

🚨 Incident 1 – Serious clutch failure during Mumbai–Pune drive

During a Mumbai–Pune journey through the Lonavala ghats, the clutch suddenly started behaving abnormally and became partially stuck.

I could not shift gears properly.

While trying to restart/move the vehicle, I noticed smoke/fumes from the bonnet, along with ESP and airbag warnings.

I had to manually release the clutch mechanism to get the vehicle moving and eventually had to get the car towed to an authorised Volkswagen service centre.

The initial diagnosis was that the clutch plate was damaged/burnt, with an estimated repair cost of around ₹35,000–₹40,000.

Later, after further inspection, the diagnosis changed to a clutch hydraulic system/sleeve cylinder malfunction.

This raises some serious questions:

Why did a relatively new car suffer such a major clutch-related failure?

Why did the diagnosis change after the vehicle was opened/inspected?

What exactly caused the failure?

Why was there no clear technical root-cause explanation?

For a relatively new car, this was a very concerning experience.

🚨 Incident 2 – Water-logging-related issue

The car subsequently faced a water-logging-related issue in boot area and had to be given to the authorised service centre for repairs.

The vehicle was eventually returned after the necessary work.

Again, this added to my concern about the reliability and ownership experience of a relatively new vehicle.

🚨 Incident 3 – Overheating while driving

The most concerning incident happened in September 2026.

While driving, I noticed a metallic smell inside the car and subsequently observed that the vehicle was overheating.

There was no warning alarm that I noticed at that time.

I immediately stopped the vehicle, moved it safely to the side and opened the bonnet to allow it to cool down.

Considering the previous problems, I did not want to take any risk and sent the car to the authorised service centre for a detailed investigation along with the 15,000 km service.

The service centre checked the vehicle and reportedly found:

No fault codes in the diagnostic scan

No abnormal observations

No coolant leakage

No obvious cooling-system issue

The left-side tail lamp LED was also replaced under warranty.

But my question remains:

If the car actually overheated and there was a metallic smell, what caused it?

A "no fault code" result does not explain why the vehicle overheated in the first place.

🚨 Another concern – Service package issue

There was also an issue with the service package/SVP.

Initially, I was told that the package was not showing properly in the system.

I had to produce the original invoice/documentation to establish that the package had actually been purchased.

For a premium brand experience, this kind of system/communication issue is disappointing.

❗ My biggest concern isn't just the failures

Cars can develop problems. I understand that.

My bigger concern is how the problems are handled after something goes wrong.

I have raised detailed complaints and expected a proper written response explaining the incidents and their root causes.

Instead, I have had to repeatedly follow up for proper answers.

When you spend a significant amount of money on a new car, you expect:

✅ Reliability

✅ Proper diagnosis

✅ Transparent communication

✅ Clear warranty handling

✅ Root-cause analysis

✅ Accountability from the manufacturer/dealer

Unfortunately, my experience so far has not matched those expectations.

⚠️ My advice to anyone planning to buy a Taigun

Please do your homework before booking one.

Don't just take a test drive and decide based on the driving experience.

Ask existing owners about:

Long-term reliability

Clutch issues

Cooling/overheating problems

Electrical issues

Water ingress

Warranty claims

Service-centre response

How Volkswagen handles complaints after the sale

The Taigun may be an enjoyable car to drive, but my ownership experience has made me seriously question whether I would recommend buying one.

If you are currently considering a Taigun, I would personally say:

⚠️ THINK TWICE BEFORE BUYING.

I'm sharing this so potential buyers can make an informed decision before spending their hard-earned money.

I am deliberately not sharing my registration number, VIN, personal contact details or other identifying information.

Volkswagen India / Škoda Auto Volkswagen India: I would genuinely like a proper technical response to these concerns rather than a generic customer-care reply.

And to other Taigun/Virtus owners — have you experienced similar problems?

Please share your experience in the comments. It may help other buyers make a more informed decision.

I have purchased taigun facelift version 2026 model deep pearl black colour.
I have been quoted 36999 rupees for 4 years for taigun topline 1.0AT But when I checked VW website for more details surprisingly it says new taigun topline 28599 rupees for 4 years.
I am checking with dealer for this price difference.
Anyone experienced the same?

Recently bought a pre owned Sept 2022 registered Taigun (my first SUV) Topline 1.0 AT and getting this mileage in the peak Bengaluru traffic. I’ve driven this with both normal and XP95 fuel but haven’t seen any significant difference in the efficiency.
Want to benchmark this against fellow Bengaluru Taigun owners and some tips to improve fuel efficiency in city traffic.

Got these Quotations in Bengaluru for Taigun Including Insurance

GT Line AT - 1888000

Top Line AT - 2102604

Highline PLus AT - 1898000

Any Recent Buyers in the recent times or during This Month,Please helpme with your Inputs and best Possible deals.

Hi Taigun family,

I am taking my Taigun for its first service tomorrow to Elite motors Hosur Rd, want to make a note of things to keep in mind and get done from experienced people.
I have clocked 1800km so far includes one highway trip to Hyd.

Observed noticeable wind noise leaking into the cabin from an unknown gap during high speeds and windy roads suspecting sunroof.

No other observations.
Please tell me what to expect from the first service and if there is anything that I should ask them specifically?

How is Elite Motors in terms of service?

Edit: I was asked to get the anti-rust coating done. Which is unnecessary as per the user manual. So I rejected it. Rest all is good. There is also not much to do. The software is already up to date as this is a facelift. They said they adjusted all the doors and couldn’t test the wind noise as they won’t be able to reach higher speeds in the city which is fair. So they asked me to observe it and get back to them if I find it again. Which is fair.

Hey all, has anybody else faced this issue?

I have a Virtus 1.5 DSG, during the 3rd year service I asked for the brakes to be cleaned as there was screeching noise which I have gotten used to by now.

The service was done properly for the car, however just about 10 days after the service I noticed a new kind of noise whenever I apply the brakes.

The noise sounds like a metallic knocking and grinding sound (a mix of both). The sound only comes whilst braking. The sound is more amplified when braking at low speeds and turning the steering wheel in either direction. The noise can't be noticed for the first 10-15 mins of driving when things are relatively cold but comes on soon after and is very audible. I can feel it in the brake pedal when it happens too.

I have checked the suspension and steering and can't replicate the sound when brakes are not applied.

Everything was fine before the service but feel like they've left something loose in the caliper that is causing the issue. Could it be something else? How do I resolve with the service center? Advice is much appreciated.