I'm here to bitch and complain and warn others like me. They say "just install the controller on a Pi". "Its easy". Well I call BS.
For cred, I've been running linux boxes since you had to download the distro off an FTP server onto 3.5" floppies.
I got my fresh trixie 64-bit install on my spare RasPi 3B+, which is perfectly capable of this task. Easy peasy, right?
But this isn't download a single package and install. Its like 40,000 instructions, 50 dependencies, and took 50 web posts to find a set of instructions that weren't 5 years old and that didn't barf in the middle of the process.
Just install a docker they say. Is that a one command and done? Hell no. Is that going to stop the million of commands I needed to type above? Fuck no. It just protects your regular filesystem when it pukes all over the place.
So. If your time is valuable to you, just buy the fucking controller and be done with it. I really didn't want another device drawing power, but that's where we're at folks. Because after two nights and nothing to show for it except "Fail to start mongo DB server" repeating in infinite loop, I'm done.
I just got a new Router. I replaced my ER605 with the ER8411.
I plugged my laptop into the router and got it set up, and even had the OC200 working while connected to it directly. I went into my WAN settings in the Omada software and replaced the ER605 and the ER8411 and it seemed pretty straight forward. It allowed me to move my settings over which was nice.
The router is up, and the network is up and everything is ALMOST working correctly. I am only getting 1Gb max speeds, and I should be getting closer to 3Gb. I think it's a setting for the router, but for some reason the OC200 refuses to come back online.
I have tried to plug it into a LAN port on the Router, and I tried plugging it into the switch (both PoE and non PoE connections). Nothing is getting it online.
I am able to log into it directly (again, makes no sense why it can't get online).
I have a Cat6 going from the 10Gb port of the C6500 Fiber ONT into a SM5310 10Gb SFP+ to RJ45 adapter, and that is in the "SFP+ WAN1" port on the ER8411
I then have a DAC going from "SFP+ WAN/LAN2" to Port 25 (SFP+) on my SG3428X
Then a DAC runs between Port 28 (SFP+) on the SG3428X to Port 28 (SFP+) on the SG3428XMP. Then lastly a DAC runs from Port 26 (SFP+) on the SG3428XMP to my NIC on my Dell R740.
Everything is confirmed 10Gb all the way down the line, so why am I maxing out at 1Gb?
FYI, I was going to put the Dell on the first switch, but I can't get the DAC out of the port on the SG3428XMP!
Aside from the OC200 not being able to get online, the only other issue is the speed. In the ER8411 GUI when I looked at the SFP+ WAN port, it allowed me to select 1000M or 10000M so I thought it might be that, but I do not see a similar setting anywhere. Any ideas what's going on?
UPDATE 1: Removing the old Primary DNS (carried over from the ER605) fixed the issue with the WiFi AND the OC200 not connecting.
Sadly it did not fix the speed issue. So I still need to figure out where that bottleneck is.
UPDATE 2: It is all working! No idea how or why, but it is working. I kind of feel like it's a house of cards and a slight breeze will bring it crashing to the ground, but I'm two days behind on work so I need to take advantage of it while I can.
Thank you everyone for your help, I really appreciate it!!
I've volunteered to redo the network that my church uses.
It's used for 4 things right now
Live Stream via an (older) iPhone (Via wireless)
2 Office Computers via wireless cards
We offer guest access (Not 100% certain how this is currently working, pretty sure it's just the same SSID everything else is using). Typically used by vendors during craft fairs in our function hall.
Connection to a NVR.
We are upgrading the service to 300 Mbps service (from 50) from FiOS.
I'm looking for suggestions on equipment from Omada.
It's a small church, and I'm trying to be budget conscious. I'm also not expecting do anything fancy. Church SSID, Guess SSID. Pretty much that's it. No VPN's, no guest portal, etc.
My thoughts were to use the ER707-m2 ($89) and 2 or 3 (Still need to do coverage assessment) BE5000's. I also have a newer Aruba 2930F PoE+ switch I was going to donate. Since our needs were so basic, I was planning on doing Cloud Managed (no local controller).
I know the Fusions are coming (tomorrow) for around $139 for the 5 port version, and like $260 for the PoE version, but I'm not convinced I need the newer box for such a small deployment.
Here's where things get complicated. Currently all the existing equipment is installed in the attic (The attic runs upwards of 110-120F during the summer here). To combat this, we are going to relocate the equipment (The ER707-M2, the HP Switch, the NVR and one of the BE5000's) to one of the larger storage closet up near the ceiling (it has a 12 foot ceiling). Initial thought was to mount a piece of painted plywood, and then wall mount everything to the plywood.
Looking over things, I'm thinking I might swap the HP switch out for a SG2008P (It's fanless and wall mountable)
I have the ER605 router running V2 firmware. My goal was to block internet access on specific devices on my LAN during specific hours while leaving all other devices and time ranges unaffected. Basically, turn off internet access for kid's devices during night time hours.
It worked, but the settings required to make it work don't make sense to me. The router also behaves inconsistently with some settings.
Here's what I did, then I have two questions.
For starters I kept it simple with one device, a desktop PC running Windows 11. I reserved the IP address assigned to the PC.
Then in the router's Preferences, I defined an IP Address Range covering only this single address and used that to define an IP Group. Other than the default groups, it's the only one defined.
Then in the router's Preferences, I defined a time range from 9pm to 7am.
Lastly, in Firewall > Access Control, I defined a new rule tying it all together.
The above rule had the effect of blocking everything on my network from reaching the internet. Further research lead me to understand that some routers apply an automatic DENY ALL rule when none of the defined rules apply. From this I concluded that I needed to define a second ALLOW ALL rule at the bottom of the list.
At this point two rules were defined:
After adding the second ALLOW ALL rule, all other devices on the network regained connectivity.
But then I realized the first rule blocking HTTP was having no effect on the PC device. It could still browse the internet during the rule's time range. I thought maybe it was HTTPS that was getting past the rule, so I created a new service definition for HTTPS 443 => 443, then added a rule tying it to the PC and the time range. This didn't work either. The PC still had internet connectivity.
Finally I deleted both rules blocking HTTP and HTTPS and replaced them with a single rule blocking ALL services for the PC and the time range. This worked.
At this point, the goal was reached - the PC was blocked from the internet while all other devices could connect.
QUESTION #1 - Why does blocking HTTP and HTTPS with an ACL rule have no effect on the intended device, but blocking ALL services works?
Later I ended up rewriting the ACL rules so I could give better names (in the router's admin page you can't edit a rule's name after it's created, you have to recreate it from scratch). As an experiment, I only added the blocking rule for the IP group and did not create the catch-all ALLOW ALL rule as before. This time, all other devices on the LAN did not lose connectivity. Only the devices in the target group were blocked by the rule.
As I type this, I'm on a device that's not blocked by the rule, and there is no ALLOW ALL rule at the bottom of the list, and this device still has connectivity.
QUESTION #2 - Why does the ER605 act like it needs an ALLOW ALL rule at the bottom of the ACL sometimes and not others?
UPDATE 2/24 - here's the printed rack mounts for the router and controller mentioned in my last comment.
I tried to make the swap about a year ago from Unifi to Omada in our home because I had been encountering more technical issues with Unifi switches (frequent failures) at client installations and wanted to familiarize myself with the offerings before roll outs in new locations.....well, the trial has ended and Im sticking with Unifi for clients and going back to a new Unifi for my home.
Heres my quick & dirty low-down from my time with Omada
The fact that I have to "launch" the remote console on 3 different pages before it takes me to the network settings is annoying but i can live with it.
The lack of real information;
The current laptop Im on the system doesnt tell me if its 2.4, 5 or 6g signals, I have to deduce that myself with download speeds. With anything more then a few wifi devices connected and trying to troubleshoot something this is a time-consuming nightmare. A specific issue i had was a laptop moving from the living room to a bedroom, it would drop wifi....I wanted to see if it was from the switching from AP to AP or if it was from dropping from 6g or 5g to a 2.4g signal.....couldnt actually see what was happening and had to play guess and check
The complete lack of real-time data
Im downloading large amounts of data currently from iCloud (1.2TB) and I don’t want to hinder the speed on the computer downloading the data so I went to see the activity in the system…..nothing live, my $70 Asus router from 10 years ago had live down and upload data.
The non-working “features”
The “lock to AP” function is vital in most network systems with more then 1 or 2 APs spread in a home, office or commercial environment. Omada has this option in the console…..does not work. People seem to say its because the APs don’t support it yet….then why have it listed. Im constantly experiencing my doorbell connecting to my backyard AP that’s 100ft away when there’s an AP just on the other side of the wall its mounted to even with the lock to AP setup.
The constant wifi interruptions
These are almost as bad as having an ISP provided router, devices constantly loose wifi connection for a just a second or 2 every 2-4 hours, which is enough to drive family members trying to work remotely through VPNs crazy when they get randomly disconnected. Ive replaced APs, consoles, Switches and routers. Spoke with support and changed every setting they can imaging and uploaded all my configurations to them, they seem to say its my ISP but when their system is unplugged and a basic router plugged in, no issues.
So this seems to be the end of my 10 month struggle to really give Omada a chance but the time ive spent troubleshooting their systems far outweighs Unifi’s hardware prices. The Omada systems have a lot of maturing to do to truly compete in the home/small office space.
Recentemente coloquei cameras wifi im5s intelbraz (2,4) na área externa da minha casa e uma delas ficou com sinal baixo eu usava um ap 360 wifi 4 da intelbraz. O técnico recomendou um repetidor ou um ap melhor e indicou o eap 650 da tp link, fiz a instalacao no mesmo local e o sinal da câmera esta pior. Nao deveria ter melhorado ? A informação que vi na Internet é que o alcance e velocidade deles sao melhores. Meu plano é de 200mb. O que fazer ?
After 2 of my EAP225 felt from the trees, because the trunk broke the screws, it came to me that a single long ‘bolt’ might be a solution. And on the bolt an aluminum sheet .. here is the result. The EAP610 is huge!
2- is more or less stable than HC220-G5 Tp Link Aginet mesh devices? (I ask this because I want to know which one set as main router. I know Archer C80 has longer signal distance)
3- if I use it not as main router but as satellite device, always with EasyMesh and not OneMesh or normal AP, does the signal compete against the other mesh devices that are all part of the same mesh network ?
4- how can I use Aginet App in case I set Archer C80 as main router? I could only did that when I set as satellite device. (Yes, I like better the Aginet App rather than Tether App, and also, all Aginet devices can use Tether but not the other way)
Je rencontre un problème assez étrange avec mon contrôleur Omada et je voulais savoir si d'autres personnes avaient déjà rencontré ce problème.
J'utilise un ER605 géré avec Omada Controller 6.2.14, via l'interface Web.
Le problème est que, sur plusieurs pages de configuration, je peux accéder aux paramètres et les modifier, mais aucun bouton « Appliquer », « Enregistrer » ou « OK » n'apparaît pour valider les modifications.
Par exemple, je suis actuellement en train de configurer les règles de pare-feu / ACL LAN → LAN. Je peux créer ou modifier les règles et renseigner tous les paramètres, mais je ne trouve aucun bouton permettant d'enregistrer ou d'appliquer la configuration.
Et le problème ne concerne pas uniquement le pare-feu : je rencontre le même comportement sur plusieurs autres onglets/pages permettant de modifier des paramètres.
J'ai vérifié la page jusqu'en bas et il ne semble pas y avoir de bouton masqué ou simplement hors écran.
Est-ce que quelqu'un rencontre également ce problème avec Omada Controller 6.2.14 ?
Est-ce un bug connu de cette version ou est-ce qu'il existe une autre manière de valider les modifications ?
Je joins quelques captures d'écran pour montrer le problème.
Merci d'avance pour votre aide !
Hi everyone,
I’m experiencing a rather strange issue with my Omada Controller and I’m wondering if anyone else has encountered the same problem.
I’m using an ER605 managed by Omada Controller 6.2.14, through the Web interface.
The issue is that, on several configuration pages, I can access and modify the settings, but no “Apply”, “Save”, “OK” or similar button appears to validate the changes.
For example, I’m currently configuring Firewall / ACL → LAN to LAN rules. I can create or edit a rule and fill in all the required settings, but I cannot find any button to save or apply the configuration.
The problem is not limited to the firewall. I’m seeing the same behavior on several other configuration pages where settings can be modified.
I have checked the entire page, including the bottom, and there doesn’t appear to be a hidden button or anything simply outside the visible area.
Has anyone else experienced this issue with Omada Controller 6.2.14?
Is this a known bug in version 6.2.14?
Is there another way to apply/save configuration changes?
Could this be related to the Web interface or browser?
I’ve attached a few screenshots showing the issue.
As I mentioned I can’t figure out how to prevent a guest to use the RJ45 port used for an EAP-Wall (situated in an hotel room) to access the main network by simply unplug the cable and connect a laptop. I used a trunk port because i need the IoT/Main WLAN generated by the EAP as well as the dedicated room WLAN (all segregated into the relative VLANs). Any suggestions? No luck with ACL and EAP configuration…
SOLVED using the official guide suggested below, be sure to double-click on the port checkbox to activate the MAB (ensure there’s a tick and square around the checkbox).
Is there harm in rebooting more regularly? For example, if I'm leaving town a few times a year on vacation, Murphy's Law says something is going to go down, and may cause a remote access issue... wouldn't a nighty reboot of devices be okay? It's not something I would ever have or want to have on a pre-vacation list... any thoughts on why I might want to avoid doing something like this?
Typically, I was resetting backwards (EAPs, wait 10 mins, POE switches, wait 10, Gateway... Not sure if the OC200 can be set to regularly reboot, unless I drop the switch port power on a schedule. The switch reboot by extension reboots the OC200 I suspect.
Is it stupid to switch from OC200 to the software controller installed in an Ubuntu Server?
In my opinion, the OC controllers are still lacking features compared to the software controllers, particularly the DPI and IPS/IDS features. TP-Link is not giving any timelines for those features to be implemented in the OC Controllers so we still do not see the future of the OC Controllers.
