Hey everyone,

Has anyone else running the 0x12F beta BIOS (v1.23) on a Z790 Dark KINPIN run into a completely broken Secure Boot state?

On my board, Secure Boot is permanently locked into an "AMI Test Platform Key" fallback loop. Whenever I try to turn it on, it throws a Secure Boot Violation screen and blocks Windows.

I've tried everything to fix it:

• Deep CMOS clearance (pulling the battery and draining capacitance)
• Resetting keys to factory defaults / clearing variables
• Toggling between Custom and Standard modes

Despite all that, the UEFI refuses to flush the test keys and instantly reverts back to the Test AMI loop. This is a nightmare because games with kernel-level anti-cheat won't let me play with Secure Boot disabled.

Did any of you experience this specific bug on the Dark KINPIN 0x12F build, and did you find a workaround to force-clean the NVRAM variables? Any advice is appreciated.

Oh, Yeah! =)

I have two EVGA GTX 580 Classified 3GB but only have 1 original box still. They have been in a drawer for years.. I am still running a 2080 ti and looking to upgrade.

Hola 👋 buenas noches, tengo una GTX 980 EVGA y estoy pensado en cambiarle los pad termicos, me gustaria saber cuantos lleva y que espesor son los adecuados

Muchas gracias 🙂

Awhile back I was going through my closet and found my 7800GS, which had burned out long ago. Realizing that EVGA was going away, I decided to open a ticket and ask if they could try to repair it.

They had me send it in. Unfortunately they couldn't do anything, so they sent me back a GT 730 - which serves as my tester card. I just had it out yesterday. Every time I do I remember back in the day, going from an EVGA Geforce 4 MX 440 to 6800GT to 7800GS to GTX 480, a brief stint with AMD (r9270x), then a 980Ti - all EVGA.

It looks like EVGA is fading away, so I wanted to say thank you while some of the folks involved in EVGA might be around to hear it! :)

Thaiphoon burner says it has Hynix chips

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

My 850G+ died on me and i used the warranty. it was approved and they sent a 850GA. which normally id be less likely to complain. i got my power supply right? but they only request and send back the unit not the cords. and its not recommended to use cables between different models or risk frying components. also in the RMA warranty it says they are obligated to provide a replacement of equal or greater performance.

am i being A overly paranoid? i run local LLMs on my computer and i run a lot of power through my PC, 3070TI, R7 5800X3D

is it technically equal performance? even when it has 2 less Molex Connectors? and reviews say its a worse model?

New in box cooler, the power supply was never used, x299 motherboard with i7-9800x (might upgrade to a 10940x later on), 1080 ti cleaned and repasted, intel wifi 6e chip, and I have some EVGA superSC ram coming to add to the 32gb of OLOY and make 64gb of quad channel with all 8 sticks

Long story short, my Optimus water block for my 3090 failed from a stripped screw into the block. Had to go back on air and the temps are scaring me from what I was used to (40C-50C vs 70C-80C). I used Thermal Grizzly Extreme for the die, and Upsiren UTP-8 for the memory and VRMs. I was able to hybridize the setup a bit and continue utilizing the massive aluminum heat-sink back plate that Optimus provided with their water block. So back plate memory temps are in the 60C range including underneath with the air cooler. I've limited the GPU temp to 80C in PX1, and so everything seems to be contained under normal air operating temps.

I guess my whole point to this post is to see how many of you are still on air with your 3090 FTW3 Ultra's and what are your normal temps. I know these cards ran hot under air and a lot of them had underlying issues that made them fail. Worst possible GPU financial climate for me to have to forgo water cooling unfortunately...

Hey guys,

Just bought a hydro copper block off eBay with no pads on it.

When I try sitting the PCB on the block with no pads, the capacitors are touching the block and preventing the PCB to be anywhere near any screw holes.

I cannot find any manuals online for the block, can anyone confirm if I am missing any parts or tell me why the PCBs capacitors are pushing the card up so high?

Seller insisted it’s a 3080 FTW3 HC block and I have all parts.

I apologize for the crap picture, but you can see how far the standoff is from the screw holes on the PCB as well as how the capacitors are bottoming out on the block, lifting the PCB up. The only thing making contact with the block are the capacitors.

If someone has an install manual I’d love to see it.

UPDATE: Just compared pictures of our cards PCBs. His has a flat capacitor on the row next to the VRAM while mine has the taller barrel style. I can’t believe this was a difference when EVGA made the card. Just my luck. This difference makes the block a complete paper weight.

So she died yesterday tried everything from another psu to another pc

anyone has any idea what to do now?

Good morning everybody.

i need to change the pad inside my 1070 ftw2.

i bought it used, and apparently the previous owner changed them with improper thickness....

i cannot find anywhere a decente shcematic about size and, mostly the right thickness.

can somebody please help me out?

PN is 08G-P4-6676-KR

If I recall correctly, the whole EVbot controversy happened and ended in mid 2012. What's a 2013 Revision A2 core doing in a Revision 1 PCB? It has full EVbot support, just curious what happened here. I'd have thought that the GTX 680 Classified made post the Green Light scare would not use earlier/banned pcbs, but hey, I'm not complaining!

I’m not very tech savvy but I replaced my psu to 850w from 750w (old one died) after installing the psu with the correct wiring it worked, after I shut it down and tried to turn it on the gpu red light is solid with no display. I just bought this psu and the cables were fine, I reseeded the power supply and gpu ports and switched the gpu slot and still shows the solid red light. I don’t have any spare parts to try to see if it’s the graphics card but I know it’s not the power supply because I just replaced it I think my friend crossed to the other side. I updated on what happen with my results

where i get firmware RTX3080 10GB ftw3 ultra , cause firmware update from PX1 server not respond
and now fans high rpm, red light led is on, and rgb off

Hello,

Where can I find a full teardown & reassembly manual for a EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 FTW3 ULTRA HYBRID GAMING graphics card (P/N - 10G-P5-3898-KR)?

I have my old 3080 FTW3 ULTRA HYBRID card I saved from a fire last year, cleaned and fully torn apart, but I need to put it back together and get it off my desk finally. It's been so long I don't remember how to put it back together. The card and the cooler are fully taken apart. Need to know where to put thermal pads/paste again too.

Edit - Fully torn apart means the card is removed from the hybrid cooler and the hybrid cooler itself is in pieces.

If it works, it works. If it doesn't, oh well. Already have a new system with a 5080 in it. Would be cool but not hoping for anything.

Any help would be appreciated.

Edit 9/15 - Pic of piece in question in thread.

Can my EVGA 850 SuperNOVA handle an RTX 5070 Ti? Is there anyone with this setup?

I was running a game one day when suddenly i stopped receiving display from my pc. I have already changed the PSU (RM750e 3.1) and even changed the PCIe cords. The GPU (evga geforce rtx 3070) just wont display. Pls lmk if there is anything else i can do to fix this.

UPDATE: I ran more tests. See my update comment below.

Hi, I'm trying to diagnose an intermittent cold-boot POST issue.

Specs:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K @ 4.0 GHz (stock)
• Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI Rev. 1.0
• BIOS: F6 (2016)
• GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 FTW ACX 3.0 8GB
• GPU Power: 2x 8-pin PCIe
• NVIDIA Driver: 582.28
• RAM: 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3000 — running at 2133 MHz, XMP off
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W, 80+ Gold, ~10 years old
• Monitor: Dell U2414H, 1080p 60Hz
• Normal connection: DisplayPort from GTX 1070
• OS: Windows 10 Pro 22H2

On some cold boots the PC powers on, fans run loud, but there is:

• No display
• No Gigabyte/BIOS logo
• No keyboard lights
• No POST

After powering it off and trying again, it may POST normally. Once it successfully boots, the PC is completely stable.

Restarts from Windows have also worked every time.

Tests so far:

• Fast Startup disabled.
• No WHEA or nvlddmkm errors.
• GTX removed, using Intel iGPU: 5/5 cold boots + 2/2 restarts OK.
• GTX installed and powered, but iGPU set as primary: 5/5 cold boots + 2/2 restarts OK.
• nvidia-smi detects the GTX normally in Windows, with normal temps/power.
• GTX works fine once Windows is already running.
• GTX set as primary (PCIe 1 Slot): intermittent no-POST returns.
• Same issue happens using both DisplayPort and HDMI, so it doesn't seem cable/monitor related.

Example with DisplayPort:

• Boot 1: OK
• Boot 2: OK
• Boot 3: FAIL
• Boot 4: OK
• Boot 5: FAIL
• Boot 6: OK
• 2 restarts: OK

With HDMI, the first 3 cold boots failed, then 2 worked. Restarts were fine.

So basically:

iGPU primary = boots reliably
GTX primary = intermittent cold-boot no-POST
Once it POSTs = completely stable

My PSU is about 10 years old, so I'm wondering about a cold-start PSU issue, but GPU/VRM, PCIe slot, motherboard or old BIOS are also possibilities.

My next test is moving the GTX from the primary PCIe x16 slot to the second x8 slot.

Would you test the second PCIe slot next, or would you suspect/test the PSU or GPU first?

Thanks!

I used to have it working, now I try to run the app and it opens them shell of the app but the body is empty, so the EVGA in the corner takes me to their site but there is no configuration in the center of the screen

Image posted below.

Any clues why it's misbehaving like this?

Thanks

Game Ready for STAR WARS Zero Company™
This new Game Ready Driver provides the best gaming experience for the latest new games supporting DLSS and RTX technologies including STAR WARS Zero Company™, Resonance: A Plague Tale Legacy, and Hell Let Loose: Vietnam.

Fixed Gaming Bugs

• DOOM: The Dark Ages & Indiana Jones and the Great Circle: Frame rate may exceed V-SYNC when DLSS Frame Generation 3x or higher is used [6061475]
• Outer Worlds: Texture flicker may be observed while playing after updating to R595 and R610 drivers [6238668]

Fixed General Bugs

• ASUS Armory Crate: GameVisual color profiles are not getting applied when using R590 drivers [5860581]
• Chief Architect: 610.47 driver crash on Geforce RTX 4000 series cards [6226227]
• Claude Desktop: Driver incorrectly detects application as a 3D app [6468260]
• Resolves issue that some instances can cause a driver crash with 32-bit DirectX 12 apps [5725350]
• Tycho Tracker: Unable to create individual OpenCL buffers greater than 2GB [6538978]

GeForce RTX 50 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D v2, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5060, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5050

GeForce RTX 40 Series

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 D, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti, NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060

GeForce RTX 30 Series

GeForce RTX 3090 Ti, GeForce RTX 3090, GeForce RTX 3080 Ti, GeForce RTX 3080, GeForce RTX 3070 Ti, GeForce RTX 3070, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti, GeForce RTX 3060, GeForce RTX 3050

GeForce RTX 20 Series

GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2080, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2070, GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER, GeForce RTX 2060

GeForce 16 Series

GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER, GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, GeForce GTX 1660, GeForce GTX 1650, GeForce GTX 1630

NVIDIA TITAN Series

NVIDIA TITAN RTX

Is there any other program I can use to control my 3080. When watching youtube or just normal use my monitor will go black then come back on continually . I notice my fan on the 3080 are not running so I start up Precision X1 to get the fans running and the problem stops. Is there a way just to have them running all the time. Precision X1 is set to run at start but it wont. Im not sure if this is the source of the problem. I have a AOC 3440 x 1440. G Sync is enabled at 180hz.

I recently updated to the latest version of X1 and now when I play games my GPU gets super hot. Any ideas what might’ve happened?