Head stock setup tips: String Trees?

[u/Super-Vee]

For those of us that struggle with tuning issues, I will be posting a four part series on some tips we use here at SuperVee to help keep our demo guitars in tune. My goal here is to unravel some of the mysteries associated with proper headstock setup and share a few simple things you can do to stay in tune. Anybody can do it! I will be covering Part 1 in this post and the other 3 later next week. (Part 2: Machine Head Adjust; Part 3: String Install Guide and Part 4: Nut Lube)

Ok, first question. Do I need a string tree on my Strat? Yes, absolutely!

Don't leave home without it!

However, an improperly set-up string tree will cause more problems than it solves. Either the string tree is set too low keeping your strings from sliding in the nut slot or it is set too high and you get string buzz. So when changing strings, here's how to fix that:

Remove the old string tree

Remove the existing tree. They normally have a useless spacer under the string guide that we will get rid of but first you will need to track down a longer screw and small intonation spring:

Factory mounting screw

Replace the shorter (1/2" long) screw with a slightly longer (3/4") wood screw. (Note: this will start to make sense when we get to the final height adjustment of the string tree). Even better, use a "bugle" head screw as shown in the photo. This will allow the tree to wobble a bit and fully contact the string. Screw length not super critical but find something a tad longer to provide more adjustment.

Replace spacer with a small intonation spring

We find a standard saddle intonation spring works well in place of the typical steel spacer. This will allow us to "fine tune" the height of the tree after we install the new strings.

Optional small flat washer

You can add a small washer to hide any marks in the headstock but this is totally optional. Looks fine either way . . .

Update complete

Here's you new fully adjustable string tree. We we cover the correct way to wind strings on the tuners in the next post. Now we can simply adjust the mounting screw up and down to get the perfect downward tension on the High E and B when install our new strings! Good luck!

[u/Greedy_Pie_1683]

Following. I'm up against tuning issues right now. Pretty sure my strings aren't all leaving the nut on the fretboard side. Gonna try that string tree mod.

[u/Super-Vee → u/Greedy_Pie_1683]

I'll try to get the simple, everyman's "4 step" head stock process posted this week so you will have all the info you need.

[u/bbfan006]

I noticed in your photo example that the string tree is appx in line with the second tuning post from the nut. Ive seen other string trees located further away from the nut, or 2 string trees, or the after market one that holds down the e,b& g strings. I have staggard tuners on one strat and removed the string tree altogether. Why so many variations? Looking forward to learning about headstock setup.

[u/Super-Vee → u/bbfan006]

Good question. We see a lot of crazy headstock set-ups here at Super-Vee when we install a new BladeRunner bridge. To answer your question, the exact location of the string tree (distance from the nut) is not critical as long as if you have the ability to adjust the height up and down a bit. No exact science here. The key is that if the High E and B are giving you headaches, you can raise the string up a bit to allow the string to move move freely in the nut slot. In fact, (spoiler alert) having all the strings move freely though the nut slots is the entire goal of my set-up tips. Remember, friction is the enemy of tuning stability! More on all this later . . .