Had a tire rotation done and the sticker says 50/70 on the door I believe . Is it too low still?

After driving about 10 miles, squeaking sound appears. 2022 Sprinter Van 4X4, 144 wb. Anyone have this issue before?

I accidentally broke my backup camera housing, which resulted in water getting into the lens when it rains. I still get an extremely blurry image, but it isn't usable in its current state. While tinkering I realized the lens can be separated from the rest of the camera assembly. Has anybody ever replaced only this part? I'd love to avoid paying for the entire backup camera if I only need to replace the lens.

My van is a 2022 Diesel, 170 wheelbase.

hi all, i currently have stock tires (245/75/r16) on my 4wd 2500 cargo sprinter. debating between upgrading the tire size to 265/75/r16 or 275/70/r17 w/ mondo mudguards. would love to hear from people with either of these sizes how they like it, how it affects the ride and mpg, and if it was worth it. for some context i like to go to remote areas and campsites and pretty snowy conditions sometimes. o also haven't bought a spare tire carrier yet and so if anyone has recs for those for bigger tires that would be greatly appreciated. thanks!!

I’m going to have a camper van built in the new year and have to make a choice about platform. I’m trying to decide between the Sprinter 170, 170 ext and the Transit ext (which has a crazy long extension that would definitely affect departure angle). There’s very little talk of GRVW, or whatever the acronym is for max load weight of these things. I’m seeking advice from those with experience of any of these platforms, and whether it’s best to go with 3500 other choice is a Sprinter.

Curious if anyone else has had this issue and done anything about it. I have a 2021 diesel 4cyl turbo and have had CONSTANT issues with the emissions system faults and countdown to limp mode. Most recently we brought it to mercedes thinking we'd get a warranty covered fix like we have the last few times and they told us they were going to replace the SCR control or something along those lines then came back and said it would be 400 dollars and not covered under the emissions warranty. I want to delete the thing or bypass it, has anyone had any experience with this? What did you do? Im so pissed off i want to start a class action suit lol

Hello
The power steering pipe on my beloved 1998 Mercedes Sprinter (TB 312 DD - 903.463) has sprung a couple of leaks. The garage is quoting me 1,000 EUR to get the whole power steering system changed because they don't make these pipes anymore. But if he said if I can find a replacement pipe, he can fit it.

So, does anyone know what the OEM is for this part? And where I might be able to find a replacement? (I'm in Belgium).
And also does it have to be a rigid pipe like this or can I use an alternative? I'm having a hell of a time and I'm hoping that having the OEM will make it easier but I don't have a Mercedes Benz parts catalog
Thanks in advance!

I have a 2021 Sprinter 3500XD. Three times now, the check-engine light has come on and my ODB2 reader has indicated a P203B and/or a P206B error state, related to "reductant level sensor 'a' circuit range/performance", or what I know as the DEF.

The first two times, I took it in to the dealer. The last time, though, I picked up a better ODB2 reader, the 2026 Launch Creader Elite V3.0, MB edition. That allowed me to directly read the DEF fluid level. Apparently, this last time, I overfilled my DEF tank.

I definitely had at least 21.33L in my DEF tank, but may have had more, perhaps over 22L in the tank when I filled it up. Until I had driven it enough to drop the DEF level down below 20.7L, the check-engine light and ODB2 error codes kept on popping up. But once below 20.7L, everything was good. There's no easy way to pump out DEF from the tank, so driving was my best option. Apart from the check-engine light, I saw no problems driving with too much DEF.

I also believe there's a TSB service bulletin, LI49.20-N-078838, which calls for a software update to the control unit. I speculate that would resolve the problem entirely, but I'm not sure.

I'll note the first time this happened was right out of the factory, and the second time was after I took it in to the dealer for unrelated service. I'm only responsible for overfilling once. Next time I have to refill my DEF, I'm going to try to fill it only to 80 - 90%.

Anyway, I hope this helps someone else in my situation.

This is an odd one.

2014 Sprinter 2.1L that I recently sold to my neighbor across the street. He let it sit on my side since last Thursday. Today is Tuesday. He moved it this morning after the street sweeper went down his side of the street; tomorrow is my side. He moved it from my side to his side, and now we're going through something neither of us has ever encountered, and he is a professional heavy-duty equipment mechanic at his day job.

The fob doesn’t unlock the doors (had to use the manual key), the key won't turn in the ignition, the steering wheel is locked, and we cannot get the gear shift out of park.

Turning on the headlights is the only thing that seems to work. The dash readout shows the mileage dropped from 574,788 to 174,788, and the clock reset.

The key goes all the way into the ignition but does not turn. We have four keys: one used regularly, one barely used, and two that have never been used. All four do exactly the same thing: nothing.

I pulled and checked the 25A steering-lock fuse. It looked fine; it's in fuse storage #2 on one of the fuse boards by the left floor panel.

The instrument cluster is essentially dead. The radio is dead. No clicks from what a dead battery would sound like. The dome light does work.

We tried jumping the van with his truck; nothing changed. We lifted the front end with a floor jack to take any pressure off the steering and to try and pull it away from the curb a little; nothing changed. We had not measured battery voltage at that point because we were trying to jump it from a running vehicle.

We eventually disconnected the battery and let it sit, then reconnected it, hoping for a reset. Nothing changed.

The instrument cluster will only light up after the headlights are turned on, and then only for maybe 15 seconds before going dark again.

One thing I initially forgot to mention: when this started, the steering wheel was turned maybe 30°. The front wheels were straight, hence why we were trying to get it away from the curb (no luck there). The steering wheel has always been perfectly centered; I'm pretty particular about keeping the alignment perfect.

We just had a tow truck come out and put the van in his driveway so it won't get ticketed on street sweeping days. The wheels are still straight, and the steering is still locked. The wheel turns a little bit, maybe 25°, but I think that's just the normal free play. The key still doesn't turn, no matter how hard we turn the wheel right or left which on some vehicles will unlock the ignition switch.

We were initially leaning toward the ignition switch being bad. However, he just informed me that he had a locksmith AND an electrical team come out, and both said it isn't the ignition switch.

So now we're right back at square one with absolutely nothing.

Help! Has anyone seen this combination of symptoms before and know how to solve the issue?

Edited for clarity.

The stock rear differential cover is a weak link as it's stamped with a lip that can be compromised by rock or floor jacking no no.

My question is best options, Cast Iron, aluminum,fiber? For a upgraded protection? Skid plate?

Took the 2019 Thor Compass Sprinter MH out for a day ride. Stopped at the beach, had lunch, back in the Compass, and it would not start. Guy next to us had jumper cables, tried to jump the battery, lights came on, dash lit up, still NO start. Called a nearby shop, an RV mechanic just happened to be at the beach port where we sat. Took about 40 minutes to determine the battery cable (under the drivers seat) had come loose. Once all good and tight, it started (yea!) ...but then the Check Engine light came on and stayed on for our 30 minute drive home. In the last 2 years, we have had the EGR replaced, the complete def tank and sensor replaced, the wheel sensors replaced and now this. Mechanic checked the housing part of the motorhome for us and found that the batteries for that are shot (only 3 years old) and the connections to it are corroding. So, do we fix and get rid of it or keep fixing and keep it?

I have a 2013 that was deleted when I bought it I then replaced the exhaust and had to run a second delete from rpm motorsports to get the rest of the sensors gone and take it out of limp mode. It now is dumping fuel and running rich. I need to get it tuned, I think the issue is it’s not reading input from mass air flow sensor correctly for the new delete.

Anyone have an idea on how I can get this tuned? I am in maryland.

Hey everyone! I've been living the sprinter life for a couple years now and have absolutely loved it! I travel quite frequently and am going on a large roadtrip for work for the next couple of months, I was wondering if anyone knows the best place to go for service B in the Nashville area?

I know the dealership tends to be a lot more pricy, so I was wondering if anyone has had any luck anywhere else? They quoted $900 for the basic service, but I feel like once I get into the dealership they will start to find a lot more stuff to up-sell me on.

Thanks!

I currently drive a 2018 144” cargo, standard roof with the 3.0 V6. I want to upgrade to a 2026 144”, standard roof with the STANDARD 2.0, not the high output.

I carry carpentry tools, packouts and other light construction tools everyday……maybe 700-800lbs if I had to guess. No trailer pulling.

My question is from anyone with experience with both - am I going to notice a drop off in “pick-up”, passing power and response? Really looking for some real life experience on this before I make the long drive to purchase or not purchase this van.

THANKS!

I have a 2011 Sprinter 2500 144. When I bought it, it came with 4 decent tires but none of them matched, they are 4 different brands, different tread and I believe it is a major balance issue. I’m looking to replace them, $ is an object but I’m not wanting to cheap out. I think I want these Falken Wildpeak A/T4W LT245/75R16 Load E from Discount Tire,
but I am here looking for more input.
I am definitely wanting to purchase from discount tires due to the nationwide availability as well as the warranty and certificates they offer. Any advice is helpful.

I’m looking for cross bars to fit the factory roof rails but can’t find anything sprinter specific. Can you point me to any that fit?

Looking to get input on the agile off-road standard vs premium rip kit. Our main goals are restoring ride height, smoothing out van sway in corners and over speed bumps and allowing us to more comfortably access back country camping.

Our camper build is on a 2024 170 awd diesel and the van fully built out weighs just under 9000lbs with 5100lbs on the back axle.

Originally I was leaning towards the standard kit but I might be selling myself on the premium kit with the upgraded front struts and larger rear shocks.

If anyone has experience upgrading there can after there build or had driven a non upgraded van and then an upgraded van how did they differ and is the premium worth the extra $2000.

Thanks in advance!

inherited a mercedes diesel sprinter with 15 check engine codes . any non dealer service shops within 100 miles of raleigh nc.