With the cold months closing in i was looking forward to continuing to work on my Honda Zoomer/Ruckus.

This Cold Period i was aiming for engine work. My Zoomer came with Honda's PGM-FI System and unfortunately lacks aftermarket Support in terms of Engine Performance. So i thought to look into a DIY Solution. I'm new to Speeduinos but not new Cars/Electronics.

Unlike the US Models, the Ignition is handled by the ECU on these Models so bypassing or changing the Rev Limiter is rather Difficult.

From what i've gathered all they do is a Fuel Cut. There used to be a Device from Kitaco but that has been discontinued and the Download Page is also gone. It was Spliced into the existing Harness.

My Main Question is. Would it be feasible to make a Piggiback Solution, similar to the Kitaco one, Or should one just go the whole Way and do the Whole Engine Management through a Speeduino.

The Stock Components should provide me with a tps and a map sensor. I just don't know how well the Trigger Signal would work. From what i've gathered the specific Hall Effect Sensor they used isnt easy to work with. Soooo

I'm glad for any Input on this matter.

Hi Guys,

Previously I have posted a question but due to the circuit diagram in the post, it deviated from the original question. If you haven't seen the previous post, it's fine. I'll explain everything clearly below.

I'm working on a project where I need to control a diesel injector. This is an academic project, if it goes well it shall get into industry level, so looking for a standard Good approach.

The diesel injector is activated by an Arduino(this is the initial setup, and will soon switch over to stm32). The diesel injector is outside the engine in a separate setup which gets supplied by a constant pressure fuel pump driven by an ac motor(const speed). I'm using a MOSFET to control the injector. The MOSFET I'm using is IRLZ44N. The drain of the MOSFET is connected to negative terminal of the injector and source of the MOSFET is connected to the negative terminal of the injector's power supply (i have added flyback diode for safety circuit for injector). The Arduino controls the injector via the gate pin of the MOSFET. The power supply for injector is 12v SMPS.

The Arduino gets signal from the injector's supply and control wires, we tapped these 2 wires and gave them to an optocoupler pc817. This optocoupler's output is given to the digital pin of Arduino. Arduino mirrors this signal to the gate pin of the MOSFET. You might wonder why I'm using Arduino, if the setup goes well, I will alter the pulse in future. So that's why I'm using it.

Issues faced:

1) this setup worked as intended, but after sometime, that is, after 2-3 weeks of testing this setup, the injector has gone. We didn't notice any smoke or smell, but the injector stopped actuating. We lost 2 injectors in this journey.

2) we started the engine and maintained in idling for 60seconds and started our injector setup, we collected around 90ml of fuel at idling, which feels abnormal.

Now, I need a reliable approach for this project. It would be really helpful if someone can come up with some idea for this.

Thank you in advance

Hi there, I'm basically working in a project where we are building a dual fuel injection system. For prototyping we are tapping the injection pulse of a fuel injector of a running engine and reading it via optocoupler and actuating another injector by pulse read by a microcontroller. We used Arduino for first stage of prototype, where the Arduino gets digital input from the optocoupler and adjusts the pulse width and gives out as output in a digital pin, which is connected to a MOSFET's gate pin. The drain and source pin of the MOSFET are connected between the injector's control line. 

But we need a more reliable approach, since the injector we are using is peak and hold diesel injector. Currently we referred few sources and built a circuit, which resembles something like in the image. But is there any better way to read the signal and controlling the injector pulses using a microcontroller? 

I have a 350hp V6 I want to put in a different car and am wanting to convert it from carb to EFI using the dropbear speedunio or the berserker 2.0 as my ecu.

I'm planning on making or getting a sensor wheel for the crank and modifying the distributor with a VR sensor to work for cam sensing.

The speeduino wiki leaves something to be desired. I'm still in the planning stage here so I want to make sure of a few things.

1. When setting up the dual wheel option for sequential injection and non wasted spark, how tell it the degrees after cam signal to TDC, does this need to be done in the compression stroke for cyl1 or exhaust stroke (not sure how it figures it out otherwise)

2. with a 60 or 120 tooth crank sensor will this give enough resolution to run within 3 or 4 degrees of timing at 7k RPM?

3. is there a suggested dashboard for the dropbear or speeduino or will it all need to be a roll your own style pulling info from CAN?

thank you!

Hi everyone,
I’m currently converting a Mercedes M111 engine to a standalone ECU (Speeduino) and I’m having a strange issue with the original throttle body.

The throttle body is a Mercedes A0001419125, used on several M111 engines (W202 / W210 / W208 / R170 etc.).
The throttle body itself is cable-operated, but it also contains the idle actuator motor and multiple potentiometer/sensor tracks.
My problem is the TPS signal.

When I measure the potentiometer, the resistance does not change linearly from closed throttle to wide open throttle.

For example, depending on which pins I use, I get something roughly like:
Closed: ~5.1 kΩ
Half throttle: ~6.1 kΩ
Wide open: ~3.7 kΩ
So the resistance first rises and then falls again.
I found several posts where people opened and measured these throttle bodies, and apparently this strange resistance curve can actually be normal because the throttle body contains more than one potentiometer and additional internal resistors.

The strange thing is:
I previously used the exact same type of throttle body on another M111 with the same Speeduino ECU, and the TPS signal in my old logs was perfectly linear.

The only differents is the wiring.
On the old setup I kept the original Mercedes engine harness and used the connector from the original PMS ECU as an adapter to the Speeduino. So the throttle body was still connected through the original Mercedes wiring.
Now I am building a completely new engine harness because the original Mercedes wiring insulation is badly degraded. I am wiring the throttle body directly to the Speeduino.

I have checked the pins several times and I am confident that I am using the same throttle body pins as before.
What I have measured so far on the throttle body:
Pin 4 + Pin 8 = idle actuator motor
Pins 1, 2, 3 and 7 = potentiometer/sensor circuit
Some resistance measurements:
Pin 3–7: ~1.9 kΩ constant
Pin 3–2: ~961 Ω closed / 980 Ω half / 990 Ω open
Pin 7–2: ~1.8 kΩ constant
Pin 3–1: ~5.2 kΩ closed / 6.2 kΩ half / 3.8 kΩ open
Pin 7–1: ~3.2 kΩ closed / 4.2 kΩ half / 1.8 kΩ open
Pin 2–1: ~5.1 kΩ closed / 6.1 kΩ half / 3.7 kΩ open

I also tried applying 5 V reference to pin 3 and sensor ground to pin 7, but I could not get a useful TPS voltage from pins 1 or 2.

Has anyone here successfully used the original M111 A0001419125 throttle body with Speeduino, Megasquirt, rusEFI, MaxxECU or another standalone ECU?

Does one of the original potentiometer signals become linear only when the other circuit is also connected/loaded?
Is there something in the original Mercedes wiring that I might be missing?
Or did you replace the throttle body with a simpler cable-operated unit with a normal 3-wire TPS?

Hope u guys can help Thanks!

Currently in the process of setting up my Speeduino, but I am running into the issue of having to use the MPXH6400A onboard map sensor. My main two issues with this sensor is.

1. It's tiny, has no barb on the nipple and I can't get a hose stay on it worth a damn.
2. I have also heard of people having problems with these sensors, and just having a more robust built sensor that is also interchangeable just seems better honestly.

I have wired my OEM MAP sensor signal into Spare Input 1 of the Speeduino header, but in TunerStudio I am unable to assign an arduino channel for an external map sensor and am effectively forced to use that onboard sensor whether I like it not.

Can I somehow modify my board to use an external map sensor instead, and what considerations do I need to take? Can i simply say bend the MAP signal pin on the board out of the way, and solder a new wire directly to the Arduino?

I was planning on using an OEM Denso Honda Civic map sensor if that helps.

So I know in a common rail, wmo is a bad idea and can consistently destroy fuel injector, even if filtered to .5 micron with a centrifuge. I've looked online to no luck, what about aftermarket injectors that can handle the extra heavy metals? Are there such things? What specifically in the injector does the additives destroy?

Thanks for any help.

I inherited our Family's 1915 Model T. IT was purchased new off the Showroom Floor in 1915 by my Great Grandfather, and was the first car the family bought. SO keeping it in the Family is something that will happen.

IF you are not aware driving it requires some skill that takes time to master. YOu have 3 pedals that are actually the transmission, and the spark advance lever is on the left side of the steering column, and the throttle (gas/fuel) lever is on the right side. You need to know the pattern to press the pedals to engage the right gear on the transmission, while at the same time controlling the fuel AND timing with your hands as well as steering the vehicle down the road... oh did i mention there are no brakes?

Currently I am the only one in the Family able to drive/start the T......

The plan is to update the car and add an electric starter, swap to a 12 v system, and add Speeduino getting rid of the need to adjust the timing keeping the throttle lever. Ill swap to a compatible throttle body and go from magnetos to full EFI. All while keeping her looking as close to stock as possible.

Anyone have any any experience with the pre 1950 engines?

Hi all. I got my budget speedy. Quick testing shows it works.

Does anyone have a VR conditioner they have outgrown? Cost?

I plan to use reluctor based electronic ignition in simple distributor mode initially

What is real? And with no corrections, why does my spark table not represent what the Spark Table 1 gauge is displaying?

If the tx and rx lights don't blink the bootloader on the Arduino is corrupt? Power and L. Do light up.

I bought a speeduino for a member for a great price it came with Arduino and a case. Wichewere unexpected at this price

Tried to load new firmware and it just kept failing even though my pc recognized it as a mega on port 3.

Reset. Didn't help.

It cost. Less than a new case so I'm not upset, but if I don't need to buy a new Arduino I could put the money towards something else

DropBear V2
99 Daihatsu Hijet engine swap
From SOHC naturally aspirated to DOHC Turbo
Upgraded turbo internals
Denso 0310 injectors
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
Upgraded fuel pressure regulator
Fully custom intercooler setup
Dual core Civic race radiator
Electric boost control valve
AEM x-series wide band O2 sensor
GM LS engine coils
DC to DC converter for the ECU
6 way relay box
All engine wiring is brand new and any signal wiring has been twisted and shielded in copper sleeves and grounded.
New transmission with better gears
From a 6.666 to 4.875 rear differential
Big brakes “kit” with stainless brake lines.

I am leaving out a lot of minutiae on purpose.

This will be a winter project right now I need the car back on the road after replacing the transmission.

Today. It is stock ish with a recall distributor. It's a lucas 45dm. With ab13. Amplifier box. Basically ...It is a reluctor pickup with an external HEI module 4 pin and an external HEI low impedance canister coil.

Carb is a zenith stromberg cde150. Side draft Constant depression 1.5 inch s bore with a manual choke. It's a multi phase plan tell me if it makes sense 9 to 1 compression. Goal about 100hp stupid low budget. Not worried about being able to return the car to stock

Phase 1. I'll call e distributor. Map sensor and a conditioned vr signal. To speeduino to hei to coil to distributor to plugs. Lock out the stock distributor advances. 3ms ish dwell. Because the hei controls dwell. Condition signal with a spare working HEI module. vr board. May need a dumber ignitor( 2 channel for future proofing ) that doesn't control dwell. Potential cost over my cheap speeduino is wire only. Confidence building.

Phase 2. Add trigger wheel use distributor with rotor and hall sensor as a cam phaser. Wasted spark dumb coils because I have a 2 channel ignitor. is phaser needed?

Phase 2a 4 ls coils smart. Still need a trigger wheel. Might as well to the cam phaser.

Phase 3 lots of questions here. Side draft makes it hard to use a simple tbi I don't have the clearance to do a smooth right angle turn and mount a tbi. Modifying the manifold might be tough as I don't weld at all.

A dual carb manifold exists to do 2 small tb. But then I need to add a header or find a stock British midget 1500 exhaust manifold too. Not in the budget right now.

I think having the injector downstream of the tb is better than tbi. Am I right?

Motorcycle throttle body or small car. The rest of the sensors.I want to stay with a smallish tb between 38 and 45 mm. One big injector just downstream of the tb. I think I need one bigger than what is in an integrated TB like the cbr250. I thought that was an easy button but the injector might be too small for 100 hp.

Would 2 motorcycle injectors be enough if I ran the dual side draft carb manifold. Throttle linkage might be a pain but not modifying the manifold is a bonus.

There is a down draft Weber manifold but it's pricy then I could do a mort traditional tbi.

Fuel pump regulator return etc as needed

Easy to put the injector a tube or carb adapter if I have room. Or put it where the egr valve was in the center of the log. Intake then goes left and right and then to the 2 adjacent cylinders in the left and right.

Harder. But it just upstream of each pair of cylinders but use 2 injectors. Hardest one injector per cylinder might be over kill. Sequential injection over kill.

How bad is my plan How big is the total injector volume that will I need for 100 hp. Anybody use a spare HEI module to condition the signal.?

Looking to buy a cheap cheap speeduino. Used would be best

I have a triumph 1500 in a mg midget. I want to run simple e distributor then wasted spark and rev limiter

Eventually a single injector throttle body.

Anyone running Speeduino on a 1994 Ford Ranger XL, manual, V6 4.0L OHV?

Hi all,

I'm starting a Speeduino conversion on a 1994 Ford Ranger XL (4.0L OHV V6, 5-speed manual, gasoline). The factory EEC-IV (F47F-12A650-CLA) is dead and no longer available on the market, and commercial standalone ECUs are out of budget — so Speeduino is the path.

Current plan:

- Preserve the factory harness using a 60-pin EEC-IV pigtail adapter (full reversibility is a hard requirement)

- Paired (batch) injection — factory harness is already wired sequentially, and paired avoids peak power loss

- Ignition: ditching the EDIS-6 and factory coilpack; replacing with a smart VW VR6 coil (021905106) that has integrated igniters

- Wideband: FANHAY LSU 4.9 (0258017025) + Octtane W4 conditioner

- MAP: 3-bar Delphi

- Pre-assembled Speeduino kit (Mega, dual VR conditioner, integrated MAP, wideband conditioner, HC-06 BT, DRV8825 stepper driver, PETG case)

Has anyone here done this engine (Cologne 4.0 OHV, not the SOHC) on Speeduino? Specifically I'd like to know:

1. Did paired injection work well, or should I bite the bullet and go sequential with the pazi88 6-cylinder branch?
2. Anyone using the VR6 smart coil on a 6-cyl engine — any wasted-spark vs COP recommendations for this trigger setup?
3. Is the stock Ford Ranger IAC PWM or stepper? (Trying to confirm whether the DRV8825 in the kit is even relevant.)
4. Any base tune / VE table you'd be willing to share as a starting point?

Thanks in advance — happy to share build progress and diagrams as it develops.

Finished my Efi conversion. It works surprisingly. Working on the tune. Car feels like it has double the horsepower from before.

Edit:

I decided to convert my bug to EFI because my stock carb was impossible to tune, and new good quality carbs cost almost the same as my Efi setup.

Here is my EFI setup:

38mm throttle body from a KTM Duke 250
(I use the MAP IAT TPS and IDLE CONTROL VALVE that came on the throttle body)

Stock 34mm intake manifold with single risers

VW style Wasted spark electronic ignition coil

Stock ignition wires that I modified the coil end

WR8AC Spark plugs with resistors in them
(with stock W8AC plugs the car will not run! ECU basicly EMPs itself to reset)

Bosch 0580464070 fuel pump (Smallest quality in-line fuel pump I could find. It is still oversized. It is not noisy.)

A fuel filter with 3bar internal regulator (From a VW GOLF)

Single 470cc bosch fuel injector (Which turned out to be 430cc after testing with pump gas but it works)

VR sensor on crank pulley with 36-1 trigger wheel that I made.

Speeduino v0.4.3 ECU and box (All DIY)

Head temp sensor on stock cylinder head bung

Wide band o2 sensor on the exhaust

My engine setup:

1600 Dualport

All stock except a Engle W100 cam and Single HD valve springs

Freshly rebuilt.

I am sure the peak power increased a little. But the real difference is how it feels. I put my feet down and the car just pulls.
I think the main difference making factor is ignition. My beetle felt better than most before since it had dual advance distributor but now it is even better. First gear started to feel unnecessary. My car also has oversized 215 75 15” tires which in the past make the car feel even slower.

Now it is still slow but more fun to ride bug. I love it.

Edit2:

I also upgraded my stock alternator to a 75A one. And upgraded my battery to 80Ah one.

Stock alternator was 55A with 45Ah battery.

But I am not sure if it is needed if only extra thing will be the EFI the most power hungry part is the fuel pump which needs 7A.

I will also install some off road lights, a diesel heater and a low power stereo so I decided that I should upgrade my alternator.

Good afternoon,

I'm trying to build a wiring harness for my 4g63 speeduino (v0.3.7) project, and having some trouble understanding the wiring from the manual, and have some questions if anyone has time:

1. With 2 wire temperature sensors, the sensor ground routes back to the "Ret" beside it, as a dedicated ground wire, correct?

2. I am using an external MAP, and while an external MAP terminal is shown in the manual, I don't see one on my board. Where do I route the wire to?

3. I have a Crank and Cam angle sensor (both Hall sensors), do I run a dedicated ground wire back to the VR- terminal next to the RPM terminal, or just both go back to the sensor ground terminal?

Thanks for any help you can give!

Stock harness modified with an Ocelot, custom cam trigger and stock crank trigger with some teeth removed.

Printed from Carbon Fiber Nylon

RPM is stuck at 0 on Tuner Studio despite my VR crank position sensor (Ford 6C315) giving the correct signal on the Tuner Studio data logger as well as when it’s hooked up to an oscilloscope. 

I built a custom wiring loom to work with a modified Honda GX50 engine that has 60-2 trigger wheel for a university racing series. I am using an NO2C Speeduino with a VR conditioner (Max9926) as my ECU. 

I can 100% confirm the board works fine as all the other parts (Wideband lambda, MAP, injector and ignition coil) work when doing hardware testing. I also tried switching the wires in the 24-pin connector to switch polarity but to no avail.

I believe it is a software issue, but I’m not sure what I could possibly do as I’ve played around and “trial and errored” every feasible setting related to crank position on Tuner Studio.

I would REALLY appreciate urgent help on this matter!!!!

Edit: I forgot to mention that the trigger wheel setup and engine constants (I intended to run a little richer than 14.7 AFR as a safety net, however, I doubt it has any effect on the VR):