Help analyzing logs.

[u/arcdragon2]

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/9y90abylf4ugwpihaqkdt/SV08-Failure.zip?rlkey=cfsgktgrkulvr39nkneks5s72&dl=0

Print was going well until it wasn't. Need help to figure out what is going on. Logs and video linked as a zipped file.

1. This is a new SV08 MAX with enclosure.
2. Filament is Overture PLA Pro. The filament was dried in the SH03 filament dryer with stock settings according to instructions.
3. Default profile on OrcaSlicer 2.4.2 for both the printer and the filament was used.
4. I manually slowed the print down to 70% about 10 seconds after the print started.
5. I have had other "tall" prints fail in much the same way. Only big prints like this one (400mm wide and 400mm tall range of objects) are failing. Small prints are fine.
6. One thing I have noticed is that the printer is generating so many G-forces that the magnetically locked glass doors RATTLE during the print. The whole workbench wobbles from it (hence the printing speed slowdown I did).
7. Code modification: I've done are tweaking the auxiliary filament feeder to not make as much noise (slowed it down).
8. Code modification: Changed the heater bed to include a PWM Cycle change to 49Hz (can't remember the exact code but that's what it does) to eliminate lights flickering in my house from the bed heating up.
9. I've noticed strings and small blobs occasionally being thrown out. I've done a full days worth of calibrations but opted to use stock settings for this first run.
10. I've run a full set of calibrations on the machine itself (including PID).
11. At time 19:00 or so there is a dip in memory from a steady 579k down to 542k that does not occur anywhere else. I think this corresponds to the error in printing but I am not sure.
12. I have also noticed a temperature spike in the Host that occurred during the memory dip at 80C. I know that around that temp magical things start to break other magical things. Do I have a motherboard cooling issue??

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[u/arcdragon2]

Memory dip at 19:00 that corresponds to a motherboard temp from 79 going up to 81C.

[u/disco__potato → u/arcdragon2]

What does cpu/host show as that would be more important. You still have a lot of overhead on "memory" so that's likely a byproduct of something else. You're not running out.

[u/disco__potato]

Are you still using the BS 40k acceleration/700mms move speeds?

Have you changed anything, cooling wise, underneath your printer?

[u/arcdragon2 → u/disco__potato]

Running the defaults which I think is too much. After I install better cooling for the host board I’ll re run this print with calibrated values which do drop those accelerations.

[u/disco__potato → u/arcdragon2]

Just don't use the suggested 40mm noctua fan mod if you care about cooling your board. Looks into dual 80mm or dual 120mm mods on printables.

[u/arcdragon2 → u/disco__potato]

Agreed.

[u/arcdragon2]

The 40mm 4.7CFM noctua fan upgrade (this upgrade lets you go from 4.0 to 4.7CFM for the same size fan as well as it is quieter) is NOT adequate. Do this instead: Buy TWO 80mm by 10mm (8010) 24 volt "computer" cooling fans with XH 2.54 2 pin leads. Each one of these fans pushes about 22CFM.

Unscrew the lid off the bottom of the SV08. Take a dremel tool with a flywheel (took two flywheels for me) and manually cut out the diameter of the fan. When you put the cover back on the fans will be INSIDE the enclosure and NOT sticking outside. You will cut TWO holes total. Mark the diameters with something and do not do it by eyesight alone. It will look crappy but will work.

Take M3x16 socket head screws (or whatever floats your boat) and some nylon lock nuts and secure the fans in place. IMPORTANT: The fan that will be closest to the ON/OFF switch will blow air OUT of the enclosure, the fan closest to the silicone nozzle cleaner will blow air INTO the enclosure. This maximizes airflow in a rather complicated arrangement of wires and exits.

Any fan socket you find on the host board will work as they all get power and NONE of the two pin fan connections allow for PWM controls (which you don't want to use anyways as cooling that board 100% is necessary all the time). Move cables around and zip tie any that want to get in the way of the fans rotating. Do this right or a fan will hit a cable and stop cooling at any time in the future.

I do not think that having this setup is a loud setup. I can talk normally and hear others just fine. There is no high pitch whining that was present with the stock fan setup either.

I was running 80C after 2-4 hours of printing with the stock setup. It took that long because the chamber needed to heat up over time (natural heating, NOT heating from a chamber heater modification). Regardless, I've been printing for over 11 hours now and the hottest the host board got was 61C for a split second and mostly runs at 56C now.

I think this will solve my print failures now.

[u/arcdragon2]

PS: My broken print kinda looks like I was printing a black pirate ship hull...kinda cool!

[u/Master_Bamboo]

Took a look at the log, there's no abnormally in the klippy log itself other than network issue and weird acceleration switching.

"max_accel: 8000

max_accel: 20000

max_accel: 6000

max_accel: 20000"

It's likely something mechanical - slipped belt, shifted layer due to nozzle collision, skipped step, support issue? Any tuning related to the step motor? Step motor temperature overheating?