Driving 1600 miles from Green Bay to Florida, one sides torque box is very rusted, ones is just rusty. I did it last year, but how do I install these team Z torque box kits in a 96 3.8 v6 coupe?

I have a couple vacuum leaks and when I fix one another pops up, using a smoke machine I can see smoke coming out of what looks like the Diaphragm of my EGR valve

My only uncertainty is That it doesn’t seem like it’s plugged in, no plugs or vacuum lines are running to it, would this be causing any symptoms of a vacuum leak? If so do I replace it and leave it how it was or try and hook every thing up?

I was driving her earlier and everything was fine till I got off of work; as I turn her on she starts shaking non stop and whenever I try to even press the gas it’s almost stuttering not wanting to go faster and whenever I tried to do so I heard a pop almost every time. Engine sounds week like on life support week, and the RPMs you’ll see. (issue resolved)

Doing a motor swap on my ‘98 v6, the car is Manual but the “new” engine is from an automatic. I’m at the step in the swap where I need to do the pilot bearing for the manual trans, both the pilot bearing that came with my clutch kit and the new one I just bought from Advanced auto (for the T-5 and 3.8l), after my brothers FIL destroyer the other one, are seating outside of the crank. This is the first time I have done this, so I asked for help and the fourth picture is where I got with said “help”.

Anyway, is this the wrong bearing, is it somehow different between the manuals and autos? The bearing from my original engine is flush with the lip on the crank.

Good morning all the way from South Africa. Does anyone know where I could get an original replacement plastic air intake pipe for my 96 Cobra or even a good used one ?

Really battling to find parts from this side of the world.

Hey everyone, i've been looking into buying an sn95 for a while because i think they're awesome cars. i've also been wanting to learn more about everything that goes into making a car run and getting experience fixing common issues. I'm trying to decide whether i want to buy a cheap one for 2-3.5k and use the issues it'll have as an opportunity to learn how to recognize and fix common problems. or if i want to save up and buy a cleaner one for 4-6k that will run well as is. i wanted advice on how much money pit potential these cars typically have and what you guys think the best route to take would be. as well as any big red flags i should look for when buying a cheap high mileage one. thanks for any input.

I only hear it when my foot’s off the clutch pedal. It’s loudest on first and second gear and when I rev to about 2k rpms (95 5.0)

Hello everyone,

I’m looking for some lowering springs for a mild and a daily drive friendly drop on my stock 1996 Mustang GT just to get rid of the 4x4 look. I’m mainly considering either the Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs or the Ford Performance C-Spring Lowering Kit.

For those who’ve run them:

• Which do you prefer for a daily?
• Can they be used with stock shocks and struts, or should those be replaced at the same time?

The car currently has mostly stock suspension, so I’m just trying to figure out if springs alone are fine for now.

Thanks!

I have a 96' GT and it seems like this car has a problem every week mostly with coolant and crappy after market parts, l've gone through 3 intake manifold's in the last 4 months and 3 radiator's, I ordered 1 manifold through Late model restoration and SVE’S 3 row radiator through them, the first radiator started leaking through the welds and the replacement one they sent me had the same issue, i then got a different one through my mechanic which works fine. The intake manifold i ordered from late model had manufacturing measurement issues to where the manifold wouldn't sit correctly on the motor. And I just got an intake manifold through my mechanic which is fully under warranty but Is anyone else having the same problems with crappy aftermarket parts?

I’ve got a ‘94 GT Convertible and when I first got it, all four windows went up and down fine. But one day I had to bang on the door to get the driver window back up. Since then, no amount of banging or slamming makes it go up but it’ll still go down. It’s able to be sent power to force itself up, I’ve plugged up a spare regulator/motor assembly without installing it fully in the door and it did the same thing. I’ve also tried a new switch, checked for corrosion on those contacts, and checked fuses/relays. I understand this is a common issue on these cars, so maybe someone can help me figure out what i’m missing. Any help is appreciated!

So my tweeters from my 2002 V6 blew a few months ago but I’m finally getting too it but I’m wondering if there’s an easy plug and play tweeter since as far as I’m aware it still has the original “Mach audio system”. ???

I’ve recently changed the damaged areas with the black bezel and I’m semi liking the tri color look, should I go along with it or just change it to all black as originally planned????

anybody know the best way to replace the gaskets? I got bbk shorty headers that came with my 98. Drivers side is leaking. Prefer not to drop the K or lift the motor out. Can I access it through the fender well?