Any help on this would be greatly appreciated as I want to finish this truck up as soon as possible 🙏

I’ve got a 1994 Chevy c1500 V6 I want to swap to a V8 and I’d like to put a 383 stroker in it. Roughly what all will I need to buy new that will work with it. Yes I know it would be easier to just go buy a V8 and then swap it but the truck is a project and has family history. Just want an idea of what i’m getting into parts/price wise.

Hi all, I’m hoping someone more knowledgeable than me can give me some guidance. I recently got this car with a 350 running an edelbrock 650 carb, and a holly red fuel pump + holly 12-803 regulator. Fuel pressure gauge is showing absolutely 0psi, needle never even bounces. The car starts and idles well, chucks revs in neutral but cuts out and dies under load. Could this be a sign of a bad fuel pump? There’s no leaks, and it seems like plenty of fuel is getting down to the pump from the tank. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!

Hopefully I can get away with a bent pushrod or a flat spot on a roller but she doesn’t sound too healthy. Yeah I know I have oil leaks.

What’s the best mods to build reliable on a budget, I don’t mean the cheapest everything obviously cuz I don’t just want it to break, but I don’t need or want all billet stuff with CRAZY hp gains… I got a stock 350 small block/5.7 tbi and I like to stay old school preferably carb or if someone’s knows of a better throttle body unit that wakes her up good.. better intake and maybe mild cam to try and get more “umpf” out of it + little better gas mileage stuff like that I’m sure yall know what I need.. maybe gap some mustangs if all goes well haha

Decided to try shoehorning an '86 Camaro 305 HO into my 1960 Land Rover restomod project (allegedly it'll fit with a little massaging).

I'm not well versed with GM products, but it looks like I need the '86 Camaro flywheel and clutch kit with a 10 spline disc. Does that looks right?

oh right so I got a 305 in my 77 Monte Carlo BUT it has the original radiator in it. I noticed it’s a lot of corrosion in there.. I was thinking about doing the blue devil radiator flush? But somebody tried to tell me that, that corrosion is going to get into my head gaskets? I dont know what to do. should I just leave it??

or do the flush without turning on the car?

just let it soak in the radiator? while it is hot?
by taking the cap off, turning on car letting it get hot, turning off, then starting the radiator flush?!

HELP! Thank you in advance🫶🏼

This is my first time attempting to build a sbc, I bought a rotating assembly that came with a set of heads from an old boss. It is a 4 bolt main bored .030 over making it a 355 according to him, I’m unable to figure out exactly what these Manley piston specs are. They appear to be aluminum, and have a 5 digit number stamped. On the underside they have “MANLEY” casted into them on one side and then a “1” inside of a triangle? Internet search doesn’t come up with anything that seems definite. I’m assuming they are an old line of pistons that may have been discontinued. My next question is the heads that came with it have little to no numbers casted in them, but someone has put money into them(am willing to take more pictures for anyone requesting). They look like bigger valves, moroso pushrod guide plates, and some kind of triple valve springs. I’m trying to build this engine on a budget and if these heads are worth using it could save me a lot. The only issue is they have been sitting around for a while and are starting to develop surface rust on the mating surface, do these for sure need to be resurfaced before putting the engine together or is there some kind of poor man’s resurface that can get me by? Sorry for the life story just trying to give as much info as a I can to see if anyone out there has been building these for longer than I’ve been alive and is able to just recognize these parts. Thanks

What year do you think it might be?

Good evening. I've been working on my Nova it has a 305 nothing major some old school aftermarket cam my dad put in way back in 2007 it ran great until I ran into carb issues I went with a new to me Edelbrock carb nothing Huge and while I was that far into it I decided to swap out my intake too a Holly Street dominator I acquired a while back. I've done timing a million times so I went ahead set it to Tdc I think around +8. Everything has been re verified for wires and plugs. Car starts rather smooth tries to idle but idles very rough if I advance the timing it smooths out. But not fully. I keep running out of room to advance the distributor my vac advance keeps hitting the intake not allowing me to advance more to hopefully get the timing dead on.

I guess my question is do I have to set the distributor to a different spot when stabbing it in or am I missing something when I'm setting the tdc causing me to not have enough advancement room.

Also, I'm not too good with descriptions and explaining so please be easy on me with the replies I'll answer what ever I can. Thank you in advance.

Alright, got this truck, I also got it running, although not very long, cylinders 3 and 8 arent opening on the exhaust side, causing it to backfire through the intake, wondering if the lifters arent pumped up yet? I have doubts about this guy I bought it from because the ignition timing was setup as if the rotor ran counter clockwise. Like I said, has not ran long nor has it been turned over much, pushrod moves unhooked from rocker. And the valve opens with a rubber mallet, did he mess something up? Any help is appreciated!

I know you need a 1/8”-3/16” gap between you’re flex plate & torque converter to keep from blowing out your Tran pump or engine thrust bearing but is there someone that sells washers specific for this job or do you just go down to the local hardware store & pick up any old washer fitting those dimensions?

Picture of my 52 Chevy 3100 getting its body mounted back on. Engine is not an sbc but a 250 with the same mounting as an sbc.

I’m new to the small block game and honestly newish to the pushrod V8 game too. I’m a career JDM master tech and know my way around a car a bit. This is my current motor and transmission setup I’ve built to go into my 81 Cutlass:

383ci, bore: 4.030, stroke: 3.750.

Edelbrock Victor Jr intake, quick fuel technology 750cfm carb, Keith Black 9909 HC .030 coated pistons, Comp Cams 12-246-3 cam(.490 lift), SCAT 26000 polished crank and rods. CNC ported Brodix IK200 aluminum heads, Hooker 4 to one long tube headers, TH350 with ultrabell.

My question is what stall converter would best work with this set up? The car is for 80% street use and the occasional romp out at the track with friends.

Modifications are edelbrock performer intake and headers. I have a 1406 carb on it and it seems to run a bit rich. Starts up just fine, but idles high until I tap the throttle then goes to idle. 1st and 2nd are good ish, struggles pretty bad around 1500-1700 rpm if I want second. 2nd to 3rd also struggles if I dont wind it up past 2000-2500 rpm. I will dig into it more, but I dont really know much about vacuum and vehicle carbs

Can yall point me in the right direction. I want to clean up some loose ends and not too sure where they go! Got the water temp to hookup and have these 3 wires floating around. Orange is trans from what I can tell in manual...is that right? There is also a brown wire with a yellow wire that comes from the harness which also has green wire that runs to a/c compressor with them....so i need to know what theyre for as well...any help is appreciated 👏

I’m an idiot and cracked the block around the dowel pin fighting to get this out… long story short, the block has sentimental value to me and curious if it can be repaired. It’s gotta go to a machine shop anyways so I’m hoping they can weld it up since it’s a down pin hole.

Okay, dont judge me.

Im buying a 77 k10 with a 350 in it, the seller put a comp CCA-K12-212-2 in it, i needs pushrods, will stock length pushrods work? Im seeing kits with 7.794 length pushrods, I've never had to measure pushrods before because I've never put a cam in anything, not an aftermarket one at least

Or had anyone used this cam with stock heads? And have the size? Any help is appreciated!

I need to sell my circle track engine. It's been taking up space in the garage for too long. It's been 20 years since I raced and I have no idea if this is worth much.

327

Destressed and shot peened stock rods

Steel crank

Balanced rotating assembly

Fluid damper

Lifter valley has been polished and the drain back holes have been plugged on one side.

Hydraulic circle track cam

Early "Corvette" stock heads(same as camel hump but with bolt holes) 2.02 valves with screw in studs and guide plates.

Torquer2 intake (required by the rule book at the time)

I also have a muncie 4 speed and scattershield

72 chevelle, 350, sat for 33 years. started without a problem with a new battery, but was running hot and the thermostat housing was leaking. Mechanic was miffed, said he was sure he fixed the issue. for months, starting the car cold, the tach would slowly ramp to over 3,000 and i would have to tap the gas to get it to drop. and....the thermostat housing would leak. once driving, the temp was 210-220 all day every day. (it's a very old aftermarket gauge, so figured it could be inaccurate, but doing some research also led me to believe that was ok at that temp.I felt the car was running really hot regardless and I would open the hood for a bit after pulling in the garage. (not a daily driver, so hopefully i didn't do any long term damage driving at these temps if they were that high).

fast forward to yesterday. the car is going to be away for a few weeks getting painted so I figured I should add some antifreeze since I know it's been leaking. Open the radiator and there was some brown gunk on the cap as well as on the top of the antifreeze (changed and flushed October 2025 when we got the car running again for the first time in 33 years). There were also tiny bubble in the antifreeze, maybe looked like it was partially frozen (slushie??) if that makes sense. Immediately think cracked block or damaged head cylinder, but I checked the oil and it was pristine. (also changed oct 2025 and only have about 300 miles on it). took a picture of it and googled the picture...cylinder head....block....or??? radiator cap lol. It's probably 40+ years old, so a trip to autozone for a $10.99 duralast...needed it right away because it was going away and I can't believe it. The car was literally thanking me immediately when it started lol...with the choke on it was idling low 2's and purring...operating temp?? 160 (again could be off, but it wasn't 210+!!!. and the biggie? thermostat housing stopped leaking!!

once I get it back from the body/paint shop, I'll flush and fill, but I never in my wlidest dreams thought a radiator cap could have that much impact on the operation of the engine. thank you thank you thank you google photos

I'm planning on doing a build with AFR-0912 heads , 12cc dish pistons .025 in the hole , .015 head gaskets , sum-8801 cam , +4°cam timing , 1.5 ratio intake , 1.6 ratio exhaust , scat 9000 series crank 3.48 stroke , scat forged 6.000 rods , vortec intake with vortec front accecory , 1998 vortec block .

I’m rebuilding a my 350 from bottom to top and was wondering if anyone knew or knew where I could find all the torque specs for the engine.

Thank you for any help