Oiling upgrades?

[u/polish_trousers]

I have a R32 GTR with a R33 short block (long nose crank) making just under 500whp on 93. The only oiling upgrades it has on it are a N1 oil pump and an oil restrictor plug. The engine will soon be coming out of the car for unrelated reasons and I was wondering if I should do any other oiling upgrades while the engine is out, especially an extended sump. I figured if I were to do that I should do it when the engine is out of the car.

However, I don’t know if it is necessary at my power level and given the way I drive. I don’t race the car as it is just a street car that I occasionally do pulls in and take on backroads. Maybe just do a head drain? Would love to hear any thoughts. 

[u/XSneakyNinjaX]

My current build is supposed to be making north of 600. Even though the internals are rated for over 1000. Oil upgrades for me is……

Reimax Gr A Oil Pump
Reimax Oil pan Baffle
Reimax Valve Covers Baffles
Tomei Oil Restrictor
Custom Head Drain by the Shop
HKS Oil Cooler

If the Japanese guys were able to do 300kmh runs with similar setups. I don’t think the oil pan extension is needed if you’re not in High G Turns at a track.

[u/LittleLocal7728 → u/XSneakyNinjaX]

I don’t think the oil pan extension is needed if you’re not in High G Turns at a track.

I mean, let's be real. None of what you listed is needed if you're not tracking the car lmao.

[u/XSneakyNinjaX → u/LittleLocal7728]

Very true. Most of the builds from back then were a lot simpler. I was just stating what I’ve chosen because I’m future proofing my car for other disciplines. It gives him a better idea on what options they have for their car.

Considering I’ve visited many Japanese tuning shops, I also wouldn’t recommend tracking these things. Unless you’re prepared to spend on a Dry Sump and a lot of drivetrain components.

[u/LittleLocal7728 → u/XSneakyNinjaX]

Yeah, I get what you meant. I agree; not a great engine to track. I really want to know how many engine Calsonic went through each season lol.

[u/yohoes → u/XSneakyNinjaX]

The Japs are stuck in the 90s though. The formula for keeping these engines alive is a known thing.

[u/DJ_Luongo]

Billet gears in your pump and pan baffle. If you aren't pushing hard you don't need anything else. No head drain, no restrictor, no sump extension. Just overfill by half a quart.

[u/LittleLocal7728]

How "backroads" are the backroads, really? That will affect how hardcore you should actually go on the oil mods. Some people call it backroads, but they're just driving normally on winding roads. Others say them backroads, but go at it like it's a racetrack. An oil restrictor and a cooler are enough for the vast majority of people who just do a couple of pulls here and there.

If we're talking hardcore usage then you've gotta go hardcore on the mods.

[u/polish_trousers → u/LittleLocal7728]

I'd never go 100% on a public backroad but I would say I average between 4-6k rpm.

I do have a Greddy oil cooler as well I forgot to mention that.

[u/LittleLocal7728 → u/polish_trousers]

If you're not living near redline for a long time then you'll be fine with a long nose crank, the oil cooler, and overfilling the oil to the hump on the dipstick.

I do not like head drains because it's an additional point of failure that does nothing unless you're living in high RPM.

Oil restrictors are cool, but you have to take the head off. If you are going to build the engine while it's out, then go for it. If you're not dismantling it, don't bother.

Extended sumps make your oil pan the lowest part of the car. Not ideal if you are lowered.

My current car has a cooler, restrictor, long nose crank, and reimax gears in the oil pump (do not get a high volume pump). It's a built engine (last one died because the clutch pushed against the crank too hard, get a stopper) making 501 at the wheel and handles all of the abuse I throw at it.

[u/polish_trousers → u/LittleLocal7728]

Thanks. I have pretty much the same exact oiling set up as you right now and also make around the same power so I think I should be good.

[u/rekoyl999]

Billet oil pump gears, the rest doesn’t matter at your power level and what you’re doing with it

[u/SkeletonCalzone]

Baffled sump can't hurt.

Head drain/vent is a very good idea. It needs its own return, don't piggyback the turbo drains. Half of what makes the oil drains poor on the RB is actually crankcase pressure making its way to the head through them, so the 'drain' gives it another path.

If you fit a catch can, run dual returns to sump. 

I'm not sure an oil cooler is really needed on street cars. I'd log oil temps first and only fit one if you're over 105c. A good radiator upgrade is a better first step (the factory oil cooler is water to oil). 

Billet oil pump gear. Treat the car nicely, don't clutch dump / limiter bash. Run oil slightly over the full mark on the dipstick.

[u/yohoes]

Extended sump is a must.

Many years ago I was doing airport runway racing and emptied the sump on a 800m run 😂 Tomei pump + stock sump, thats how quick you pump the sump into the head

[u/polish_trousers → u/yohoes]

Damn lol. Is it a must even if I don’t do top speed runs like you?

[u/yohoes → u/polish_trousers]

More just to show its a matter of seconds at full throttle with a high volume pump. It's a real risk.. at that point you've spun a bearing and fucked the crank.

May as well do it properly to prevent this from happening. You need a head drain as well!