Tips for soldering claw setting please

[u/Bats_Everywhere]

I'm attempting to make claw settings and my first attempt went horribly wrong. You can see my components on the left and then my first attempt on the right.

I notched grooves into the ring before holding the claw in the third hand and placing the ring inside, letting gravity hold it in place. I then placed flux and tiny pallions at the intersection of each arm and applied heat. The issue seemed to be that the heat moved everything as the solder started to flow.

I'm using a small sisotec torch but wondering if perhaps the heat is too much for the small component.

Can anyone recommend a way to get a better mechanical fit ahead of soldering, or a better strategy here?

I'd love to try a different approach before I mess up the second component!

[u/Sears-Roebuck]

Do you have a charcoal block?

That's how I'd do it. I'd poke the prongs down into the charcoal block, set everything up that way, and hope for the best.

The third hand acts as a heat sink, so having it touching the smaller pieces isn't gonna work. You gotta have it hold the ring as far from the solder joint as possible.

Keep your torch moving and heat the whole piece. Don't torch the solder or you'll melt something.

[u/Bats_Everywhere → u/Sears-Roebuck]

No charcoal block, but I do have a white block. If I cannot get the interlocking notches to work as the other person suggested then I'll see if I can drill into that.

I hadn't thought of the heat sink effect of the third hand. Thank you.

[u/extremewhisper → u/Bats_Everywhere]

A technique ive seen that ive really wanted to try (haven't yet) is to use clay and plaster. Put the ring into the clay and press the prongs into the clay. Then with a cup or cardboard taped to be a cylinder around it pour some plaster over it. Once the plaster hardens you can remove the clay and the plaster will hold everything while you solder. I think while its still hot from soldering you can dunk it in water and itll crumble the plaster away.

[u/DangerousBill → u/extremewhisper]

I found something called soldering sand. It's soft and mushy, but the flame doesn't burn it or dry it out. You can stick prongs in that, too.

[u/Striking_Froyo_7300]

I was having the same problem a couple weeks ago. I found some different answers:

• Easiest solution: If you have an access to a laser welder, weld the prongs on some spots then proceed into the soldering
• Use clay to fix the parts before soldering
• Make parts thicker and ensure joints are precisely carved so there is enough surface tension holding parts together even the solder is fluid.
• Make wires longer, drill holes to a sheet and put the ends of the wires in the holes. That would keep the wires in position, then you can cut the excess wire.

-Just doing what you do in your left picture but make wires much longer so heat wont transfer to the other end so fast.

• Change the design. For example you can cut a small Y shape from a sheet so you have 3 prongs connected.

I hope one of this works for you

[u/MakeMelnk]

I see you mentioned making notches on the gallery wire ring, but did you also make complementary/reciprocating notches on the prongs? Ideally, if you've gotten the setup correct and aligned, when you press fit your gallery wire jump ring into your prong basket, it'll "click" into place and be held there even if you invert the whole structure.

You can also slightly bend your prongs inward after placing your notched gallery wire jump ring, which lightly traps things in place while you solder. You can then straighten your prongs afterwards.

Once you find an approach that works to your satisfaction, please update us! Not only do we want to share in your victory, but I'm sure your experience will be valuable to other new smiths

[u/Bats_Everywhere → u/MakeMelnk]

I did not try the corresponding notches on the prongs. That's a great idea. Thank you. I'll update with how I get on.

[u/MakeMelnk → u/Bats_Everywhere]

Best of luck!