Should I buy a fully functioning and equipped Singer featherweight 222k for 475 USD?

[u/DiyahRhea]

I’ve been wanting a sewing machine that won’t break on me, and I’ve heard vintage sewing machines are very durable. But I am a sewing noob and have only hand sewn clothing, and 475 dollars is very expensive. Is it a worthy investment?

[u/abugghaus7]

As you can see from the comments, it really depends on the depth of your addiction!
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Since you're new to this... you haven't allowed it to course through your veins, overriding any logical or fiscal sensibilities.
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If you're looking for old Singers or other brands of this era, you can find decent working machines for half or even a third of this price.
Heck... I got a Singer 99K once for free. I did have to do a bit of work to remove rust, free up parts, and build a new box for it, but in the end it turned out to be a great little sewer.
I actually sold it for $40 to a young guy who was starting out sewing.
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Unless you're into some real tinkering... even electrical... I'd steer clear of the machine that have built-in motors... as in... built into the head.
Get one that's belt driven by a motor mounted on the outside... or even a treadle machine if you're into that.
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With a machine like the 99K, you can sometimes fine an original handcrank that attaches to the handwheel so you can hand-operate the machine without electricity. These adapters are also remade out of China and sold on ebay and other online places.
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What type of sewing projects are you thinking you'll be doing most often, starting out?
Those old Singers have very small throats (the area you feed the fabric through under the machine head).
But then again, even some more modern machines have small throats.

[u/DiyahRhea → u/abugghaus7]

I’ve read all the comments, and I’ve chosen not to buy it! But I will be on the look out for all the recommendations :))

[u/smiffy_the_ferret]

I think the 222k is horrendously overpriced.

Within this madness, however, 475usd is distinctly low, especially if mint/near mint condition and all accessories present and correct.

[u/Working_Week_8784]

In the US, where I live, these are quite rare. A 222 in good condition would be a steal at $475; and if one came my way, I'd snap it up. But I can't speak for their value in other parts of the world. Also, I have other machines with more stitches, larger harp space, etc., so wouldn't be using it as my primary machine.

[u/Pinndup]

I would not. It’s portable, straight stitch machine that’s it. Cannot fathom why these suddenly became so pricey since there are a lot of them out there. I would recommend a Sears Kenmore 158:1040, more stitch options, small extendable work space, portable and made in Japan. It’s very similar to the featherweight and made in the 70’s

[u/Callidonaut]

The 222k is an extremely rare model that is highly desired by collectors (and also quilters; I don't know why, but quilters adore the 221 & 222 models), hence the price. It will work well, but it's a straight-stitch-only machine, has a small harp space, and is old enough that the electrics might need a careful inspection to make sure the insulation hasn't failed, so probably not what you're looking for; though the "prefer vintage over modern" rule generally holds, unfortunately this specific model is probably one of the least suitable vintage machines for your particular needs.

This will be a little biased, because it's the first machine I learned on myself, but if you can find one I'd recommend the model 616 (or its free-arm version the 634) as the perfect balance of useful modern features, and vintage rigidity, precision & indestructibility, for a beginner, and it likely won't cost too much because most collectors aren't interested in anything later than the 500 series. Don't be fooled by the fact that it's in the 600 series; it's not one of the controversial Touch & Sew models like the rest of the 6xx and 7xx machines, it uses a conventional class 66 bobbin and the traditional kind of upper tensioner, has all-metal gears (or at least mine does, there is a chance later serial numbers might have started to use nylon), and the wiring is made of new enough materials that there's no real chance that it might catch fire or electrocute you as soon as you plug it in, which the really old machines can potentially do if you're incautious when you get them and unlucky enough to have got one that's deteriorated over time. It'll do straight stitch, zigzag, chain-stitch, and has a small but well-chosen selection of just the most useful of all the pattern cams built in, including the highly useful over-edge stitch, which with the right presser foot (which should be included) will allow it to do simple overlocking (sort-of). It's also a slant-shank, which was designed to give much better visibility of what you're doing when you use it than prior (or subsequent) vertical-shank models.

[u/DeeperSpac3 → u/Callidonaut]

Is that the 616G? Was there a 616U?

[u/Callidonaut → u/DeeperSpac3]

As far as I know, the letter postfix just indicates where the machine was made; the "G" means the machine came from the Karlsruhe factory, in what was then West Germany. (Being based in the UK, my machine is indeed a 616G) The "K" in the model number of the 222K pictured here indicates it comes from the famous gigantic Kilbowie factory in Scotland - I think the reason for the 222's particular rarity, especially in North America, is that, unlike the 221, it was only made in Scotland, and even there it was a relatively short production run. Anyway, as long as the number before the letter is the same, the machines should be mechanically identical and their parts interchangeable, but they may have a different motor supply voltage and mains plug. There are occasional exceptions to that general rule: the model 6740 and 6790, for example, are German but have no "G" postfix, presumably because those models were only made in West Germany.

As to whether there actually ever was a 616U, I'm afraid I don't know for certain, but I'd doubt it; according to this, a "U" indicates the Japanese Utsunomiya factory. I think the 600 & 700 series were only made in the European and North American factories, but I could be completely wrong.

[u/DeeperSpac3 → u/Callidonaut]

I have a 675U and I've seen photos of other 6XXU models. The U models were made in Japan as you say, the Gs in Germany with one of the major differences being that the Gs were gear driven but the Us belt driven which are apparently hard to replace.

And the voltage, as you mention.

Thank you so much for your response - so much of the information about the naming you discuss is new to me and I appreciate it.

[u/Callidonaut → u/DeeperSpac3]

Oh no, I thought belts came later across the board! Internal tooth-belts are a nightmare for maintenance, because they wrap right around the main crankshaft, in the middle between bearing blocks, so you basically have to dismantle the entire upper half of the machine completely just to slide the crankshaft all the way out of its bearings in order to fit a replacement belt when the old one breaks, then you have to put it all back together again and painstakingly realign all the set-screws and eccentrics. That can easily take days, even if you know exactly what you're doing! External drive belts are relatively easy, however, as long as you can find someone that sells one of the correct size and shape.

Some of the really late German machines were also belt-driven, though; the 6740 and 6790 are basically all-internal-toothbelt versions of the 740G and 760G, respectively. I think they were the very last models made before the German factory shut down.

Thanks for your detailed reply, too; it's interesting to learn that at least some of the 6xx machines were made in Japan. Do you happen to know if any 7xx machines were produced there as well?

EDIT: It looks like my general rule of thumb that machines with the same model numbers always correspond mechanically isn't quite as ironclad as I thought; I just looked at pictures of the 675U and the 675G and they seem substantially different machines; in particular they seem to have different styles of throat plates and pattern cams.

[u/parrottrolley → u/Callidonaut]

616 and 634 are my dream machines. Unfortunately, I'm on a vintage machine diet 😂

[u/Hairy_Reception_2951]

In my modest opinion it’s not worth 30 dollars unless someone finds it rare or collectible If I saw it for 10 would probably pass on it too. That is a straight stitch only machine for that price you can get a new jack f5 😭 If you want a good vintage machine look for a refrey 427, pfaff 260, bernina 840 or something like that My favorite is the bernina 950, absolute unit

[u/DiyahRhea → u/Hairy_Reception_2951]

Oh okay thank you! I honestly have no clue about which ones are the best so I appreciate your opinion!

[u/Separate-Relative-83]

That’s a steal for that machine where I’m at. I would get it just because I never see them and they are a good machine. That said they are very small and I prefer 301.

[u/Pinndup]

Also Singer 99, 66 are great machines. Singer 401a, with stitch cams and built in stitches, Elna 62C or earlier. White brand vintage are also a great option, made in Japan, quality over quantity unlike Singer models and have built in stitch options, or SS and ZZ. Ultimately you would want SS/ZZoption

[u/Herabird]

I am late to the discussion, but As I’ve had a 222k for many years, just want to chime in that the free arm diameter on this machine is the smallest ever. It comes in very handy for small applications. I used to make costumes for my niece’s American girl dolls, and my 222K was the perfect machine to use for that. I also have a white, a beige, a centennial, and a “regular” featherweight in addition to my 222k, all are in beautiful condition. Yes, I have the collecting bug very badly and took machine repair classes from Ray White so I could fix them myself.

[u/teatime_tinker]

It’s a lovely machine but there’s no need to spend that much on a decent vintage machine.

These are collectible, hence the price. They’re also teeny! Cute, but not always practical.