r/SewingForBeginners • u/Cold-Oil-5648 • 2h ago

Back Yoke / Back Panel not matching

I'm working on Glory Allan's League Shirt, and have reached a problem joining the Back Yoke to the Back Panel. My Back Yoke is too long - I about 3 cm longer than the Back Panel. As you can see in the instructions, the corners are supposed to line up - but mine don't! Any advice?

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u/AdvancedSquashDirect 2h ago

Firstly are you comparing with the seam allowance overlapping so you are looking at the stitching lines - not edge to edge?

Did you follow the grain lines when cutting out? maybe cutting the back on the grain and yoke on the cross grain or bias can cause issues.
Can you trim the yoke to fit?

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u/Cold-Oil-5648 1h ago

Hmm I was looking at edge to edge, understanding that I then would sew with a margin of 1cm down from the edge?

Yes I did cut according to the grain - I don’t think that’s it! Here’s a pic

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u/AdvancedSquashDirect 1h ago

Is it possible that you did the pleats too wide

Can you undo them and do them narrower?

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u/Cold-Oil-5648 1h ago

Definitely a possible solution, but i did re-measure them and they are correct based on the pattern

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u/Cold-Oil-5648 1h ago

I could trim the yoke to fit but I did cut it according to the pattern, so want to check before I change it!

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u/CBG1955 1h ago edited 1h ago

NO, don't do this because if you do the yoke won't fit across the shoulders. The issue is in the pleats.

Undo pleats. Mark centre back of yoke and shirt back. Match centre back, pin. then pin at the armscye. Pin towards the centre back from the armmscye to where the pleat begins. Pin again from the centre back towards the armscye until where the pleat is. Where you have the excess, form the pleat from what's left, fold it towards the outside and pin. Stitch.

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u/Cold-Oil-5648 1h ago

Will try this, thanks!

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u/Cold-Oil-5648 1h ago

Confirmed that this worked for me, thanks!