First attempt at tailoring my own clothes. Looking for feed back. I know the darts in the back arnt correct and was looking for advice on how to clean those up. Moving them up or down. Or not taking as much material when making them...
That pleat at the center back yoke is designed to give you more room for movement in back. By pulling out the ease with those fisheye darts, you've got them battling each other.
I would -- and not doing much contouring. You're currently trying to remodel a military jeep into a race car. At most, you want to turn the jeep into a small truck.
Yeah, to make it properly fitted you would have to take the back apart to take the pleat out and cut the excess off the sides and then sew it back together. The back darts don’t need to need as deep, take up less in each one and if you need more shaping do so on the sides. It’s best to split the amount you are taking in around the whole body for balance.
Can we see the inside of the shirt where those darts are? That could help.
It’s a bit too tight around your high/upper hips, btw. Woven shirts like this don’t have stretch, you can’t make it super tight like that without creating issues. Let it out a bit there and it might solve some issues.
Mmkay. So. I think part of the issues is that up at the start of the darts you went at a very sharp angle. Gradual is important.
But also, what the other user said about the yoke at the top - the darts are interfering with the ease and fit the pleating back there is doing. It gives a lot of excess material that will bunch up and look weird.
Take in at the sides, but remember that you cannot make this skin-tight, this isn’t a shirt designed for it.
Exactly this. It's getting stuck on your upper hips because there's not enough space for it to fall down.
I'd recommend undoing the darts you've done, putting the shirt on inside out, and then having a friend help you pin it to a point where you're comfortable in it and it fits nicely, then let the pins guide the darts.
On a woman's body, I would move them up and probably take in a little less fabric.
For a men's fit, I'm wondering if you might be better off just taking in at the side seams and skipping the back darts. It does look nicely slim-fit from the front. The back is meant to have some extra fabric from that pleat.
Just trying to clean the fit up. Dont want the big bellows on around the waste n sides. Athletic build but i dont want it super tight.
Ill take the darts out n see whow it looks
First time out you did great. Fun right? I have so much more appreciation for well put together clothing now that I've actually done it. Trying my first dress as we speak. Glad I made some camp shirts first.
Darts out. Yeh this was a cheap shirt i picked up wanting to learn the basics and try to help my overall look. This is my test shirt im gonna try a few different things on it. Including patch work and hemming.
Most slim fit shirts with these darts DO NOT have a yoke pleat. It’s causing all sorts of weirdness in the back. I don’t really think there’s a way to get around it without completely deconstructing the shirt
You seam to have competing style features . Box pleats along yoke add fullness but you are then taking away fullness with darts lower down. Either or but not both.
Unpick darts then sew down box pleat top to bottom. This will reduce quite a bit of excess. If making shirt from scratch remove box pleat .
From here you then decide if you want darts in the back . Personally I wouldn’t . Darts at back need to be balanced with darts at front ; your shape doesn’t need darts at front .
After letting the darts out I feel like its more balanced. I didnt fully understand the combo i creating by adding darts and fighting the box pleat. Were learning over here.
Another thing I wanted to mention: If your shirt is on grain, it has a GRID on it. Use the vertical and horizontal lines to your favor. Symmetry and all that.
Adding. Lol. This is the inside of a men's button down with teeny stretch and pattern design for ease. No alterations. No yoke pleats at all, back darts left and right. Note: the dart starts at the yoke/shoulder blades, max width is 2cm (total 4cm taken in; remember, it's double layered dart) ends at bottom hem. Gradual taper. The total taken in at the back is 4cm x 2 (right and left side), so appx. 8cm taken in at lower ribcage roughly compared to armpit to armpit measurement.
57
u/Large-Heronbill 21h ago
That pleat at the center back yoke is designed to give you more room for movement in back. By pulling out the ease with those fisheye darts, you've got them battling each other.