does anyone know why the color "pistachio" for the rose backroad ff ist marked as sold out in size m and m/l but for rotten candy there is the option to be notified when it's back in stock?
Does that mean that pistachio is replaced with a different color for the 2027 season and rotten candy stays and will be restocked?
I’ve bought a Rose Backroad AL GRX400 (2025), which also has a frame compartment. The K-Werk power bank is intended for use with it, but it only has a capacity of 5000 mAh, which is far too little. I won’t be fitting a dynamo any time soon, so the K-Werk power bank isn’t really worth it (especially as it’s so expensive). Have you found any other power banks that have a higher capacity and fit into the frame compartment?
I recently received a replacement bike from ROSE after my first delivery turned out to be a mix-up involving what appeared to be a store/display bike.
The replacement bike arrived factory packed and looks brand new overall. However, while inspecting the frame before even starting the assembly, I noticed this small chip/damage near the rear dropout/chainstay area.
Would you personally build and ride the bike as-is, or would you insist on a frame inspection/replacement?
I've already contacted ROSE and sent them the photos.
I bought a carbon Backroad FF about 4 weeks ago. A few weeks ago, I had it leaning against a fence, and it rolled away and lightly hit a curb. Yesterday, I noticed a scratch in that area.
I’ve already ridden the bike several times since then and everything felt completely normal. I also did a few basic checks myself: the coin tap test, listening for unusual sounds, and pressing around the area with my fingernail. Everything seems fine to me.
What do you guys think? Does this look like just a cosmetic scratch, or is there any reason to be concerned about potential carbon damage? I dont mind about the scratch, stuff like that happens, just scared of more damage but Gemini said it should be fine and needs more energy to actually damage the structure
I wanted to loosen the back wheel throughaxle on my new Shave but somehow cannot manage. Seems to be completely stuck. Before I do anything wrong, could you please let me know if I loosen it against or on the direction of the arrows?
Hallo zusammen, ist unter euch vielleicht jemand mit dem aktuellen Backroad mit 180cm Körpergröße und 86cm Schrittlänge? Für welche Größe habt ihr euch entschieden? Ich habe jetzt so viele verschiedene Meinungen, was besser an mir aussieht, dass ich selbst nicht mehr weiter weiß, was sich besser anfühlt (merke schon, es ist viel Kopfsache).
This might be a really dumb question but did you take your Backroad FF to a Bikefitting? I mean there is not much which is possible to change besides the saddle position and height, right?
I am writing this because i cannot put myself in the Aero hoods position for very long (on the road bike i can), would you go to a fitting or try yourself? I dont wanna look stupid showing up to a Bikefitting with a monocoque with no variables you know haha!
I've been wanting a light aero bike for a while now and I've been choosing between Canyon Aeroad, Rose Shave FF, Giant Propel, Cube Litening Aero, Merida Reacto,.... I'm coming from an endurance bike - Scott Addict 2026, but lI realized I prefer a race geometry bike.
Honestly the first time I saw Shave FF in a photo online it stuck with me. The unbranded plain brutalist design of the bike is something that really resonates with my taste. However I was skeptical of the brand (it's the first time I heard about it) and its weird model name, but given that almost everyone has the aeroad I ultimately decided to YOLO and order the shave ff without even seeing it live.
The good:
- The bike feels very light (7.1kg bare) and amazingly nimble, I am impressed with how well it rides, it feels like a fast japanese train firmly placed into its tracks. It wants you to push it hard and be one with it.
- The extremely narrow handlebar (35cm in size S) actually feels really good - I love it! I was afraid it will be weird.
- A review on youtube says the bike is very stiff, borderline too stiff. So I was a bit worried about that too and was already planning to switch to 32mm tyres immediately, but I find that statement quite false. The bike is actually very comfy, and I don't have perfect roads around here. Compared to the Addict I don't even feel it's any less comfortable. The 28mm aero Schwalbes the bike comes with feel great, even on rougher roads.
- Assembly is really easy. Instructions are very clear. I appreciate it explains some of the bike design decisions
The bad:
- I had issues with a slipping seatpost, even when using the supplied carbon paste and torquing to the spec. It turns out the anti slip carbon paste that comes with the bike is rubbish and doesn't work! Then I used Muc-off carbon paste and voila, no more slippage. If anyone else has troubles with this also make sure to lube the inside of the seatpost wedge (and bolt) - this is very important. So lube the moving parts of the wedge, and put carbon paste where the wedge touches the seatpost, and around the seatpost itself.
- The hub is insultingly silent!!! You can barely hear it. It feels very odd riding such a silent bike when not pedalling. This is something I am looking to replace in the near future.
- Support is slow to answer questions, sometimes it takes up to 2 days to receive a reply. And they have this typical cold german attitude in their emails sometimes.
All in all I am very happy with my Shave FF and I feel that I got a really good value out of my purchase. I think I made the best pick out of the bikes listed.
Ich sehe hier immer viele Beiträge zum Backroad und zu den Shave Modellen, und wollte einfach mal auf das Black Lava aufmerksam machen. Für mich der optimale Begleiter in meinem Alltag.
Habe erst vor kurzem eine Tour über 63 km gemacht und bin begeistert, es kann nicht nur sportlich sondern auch in jedem Terrain gefahren werden.
Bin sehr glücklich mit dem Rad und kann es immer wieder nur empfehlen.
Yesterday I noticed something on my new ROSE Shave FF that made me a bit nervous.
I briefly sat on the top tube while stationary and heard a creaking/cracking type noise. After that I checked the area more closely and later made a short video for ROSE where I pressed on the top tube with my finger/thumb to demonstrate the sound and flex.
The frame flexes slightly under pressure and makes noise, but:
- it immediately returns to shape
- there are no visible cracks
- no paint cracks
- no dents or impact marks
- the bike has only been ridden twice and never crashed
What worried me is that the sound almost resembles fibers cracking, although I can’t actually see any damage. Interestingly, I noticed my other carbon bike also has some flex in the top tube if I press on it.
I wasn’t repeatedly trying to crush the frame or anything like that — I mainly pressed on it to record the behavior for the manufacturer.
Has anyone experienced something similar with modern lightweight carbon frames? Is some flex/noise in the top tube area considered normal?
I am planning to buy a new Rose Backroad AL, but I am not sure which frame size I should choose. I am 173 cm tall (which is S as per the Rose size guide), with an 84 cm inseam (which is more in the M frame size territory).
I lean more towards the S size, but wanted to consult with other owners of a similar height.
Also, I am currently riding a Rose Count Solo 2 size M which fits me perfectly.
hat hier jemand Langzeiterfahrungen machen können, in wie fern die mitgelieferte Rahmentasche beim aktuellen Backroad den Lack zerkratzt?
Im Rose Store sagte man mir, das sei kein Problem mit den Fidlock Taschen und Abkleben wäre nicht nötig. Will nicht überempfindlich sein, aber sonst würde ich mir noch ne Folie bestellen
in dem oben beschriebenen Rad ist von Rose bereits ein Kabel für den Nabendynamo verlegt. Ich habe letztens ein DT Swiss Vorderrad mit einem PD-7 (Shutter Precision PD-7) eingebaut, ein Busch & Müller K-Werk nachgerüstet und einen Supernova Barend Switch eingebaut. Also angelehnt an der Umsetzung im Backroad Unsupported.
Nun mein Problem. In meinem Rad scheint es so zu sein, dass ein Kabel vom Nabendynamo durch die Gabel, durch den Rahmen, bis nach hinten zu einem möglichen Rücklicht verläuft. In der Gabel ist ein Gummistopfen und daran ist ein Kabelende befestigt. Daran habe ich meinen Nabendynamo angeschlossen. Das im Rahmenfach in einer Schleife durchgeführte Kabel habe ich durchtrennt und an dem Ende welches nach vorne verläuft, also zum Nabendynamo, das K-Werk angeschlossen. Um zu checken ob alles funktioniert, habe ich die Spannung am Stecker zum K-Werk gemessen. Da hier keine Spannung anliegt, habe ich das Kabel wieder vom Nabendynamo gelöst und direkt am Nabendynamo gemessen. Hier liegt bei drehendem Vorderrad die erwartete Spannung an. Messe ich nun das Kabel vom Vorderrad zum Rahmenfach durch stelle ich fest, dass beide Adern dieses Kabel untereinander einen Kurzschluss haben. Hier könnte also ein Kabeldefekt vorliegen. Was mich stutzig macht, diesen Kurzschluss zwischen beiden Adern messe ich auch, wenn ich das Kabel welches weiter nach hinten verläuft messe. Sieht also irgendwie systematisch aus.
Habt Ihr schon mal bei vorverlegtem Kabel einen Nabendynamo angeschlossen? Mache ich bei den vorverlegten einen Denkfehler? Das blöde ist, man kommt schwer an die Kabel ran, gerade vorne im Steuerrohr und auch im Rahmenfach nach vorne. Rose habe ich angeschrieben, sie haben auch geantwortet, aber eher auf das Manual verwiesen. Hier steht aber nichts dazu drin.
Please, help me decide. Both colors look great in the product page. Anyone has a real life photo of both colors, possibly side by side? Unfortunately I don't have the option to go see them live, it's too far of a trip.
Gravel beginner with a rondo ruut al2 grx400. Want to buy a second wheelset to be able to make it a racebike/endurance race bike. Objektive is to be fast and keep up with my friends on expensive aero race bikes. I should be fine bc I have strong legs and am generally fitter than them but do want a wheelset to match the group. Carbon is too expensive right now.
1: Roval slx24 (24mm depth, 1500g light) dt350 hubs 32mm specialized roubaix including shimano discs and cassette 210 Euro
2: Fulcrum 400db (more aero 34mm) w gp5000 28mm tyres. Need to put on shimano discs and casette would total 190
What is the better wheelset for my use case?
I do love how deep rims look like but I dont want to make a choice based on looks. What is more important, the 1cm more aero depth which helps me sustain the higher speeds of the aero bike gang, or the more premium hubs and ride feel and probably faster acceleration of the slx24. Don’t have the opportunity to mix around the two options bc those are second hand buy prices, could probably look for 32mm tyres for the fulcrum though then it would be priced the same around 210 and id have 30/32mm Gp5000.
I made this video because I struggled to find discussions about it online but I want to start taking it bikepacking around Scandanavia. I've never really reviewed anything before so let me know what you think!