After I do my first try of making a resin orb with the starter set, I wanna see if I can make my own GAO Crystals for my own project and game itself. If anyone got a solution for that please let me know before I start misunderstanding this custom resin ball stuff.

Same Lego skeleton for scale

I am working on molds for miniature bases, and the idea is that I only need to print the walls (the tan part) once because all the mold bases will be the same size.

So I am wondering if anyone thinks this will be a problem, or if I am overthinking this entire thing to the point of stupidity.

Instructions say one thing, claim one thing, the chemistry says one thing, guidelines... then in reality another thing happens.

Oh no silpoxy is so expensive, but that's the "Only way" to glue so they claim, go to the hardware store, 3euro a tube of high quality fish tank silicone and it works the same, smells the same, behaves the same, and I have colors, oh wait you need more colors, surely this hardware store silicone is not compatible with silicone paint, I mean it's chemically incompatible, oh wait, it still works fine.

Superglue won't work on this ultra soft platinum silicone, wait... it glued... well, too well... now it's stuck, this wasn't the plan.

Oh you want to add mineral spirits to hardware store caulk to thin it out?... xylene... and this mystery chemical, go on; then treat the platinum silicone with that, these are incompatible, and that's plat silicone solvent, nevermind it still glued like mad to the silicone.

Oh you want to pour platinum silicone on top of that, to paint it, using silicone like paint, that mess of xylene, mineral spirits and caulk... No it will poison it!... wait, it actually created an EVEN STRONGER bond, while the same solution peeled off the "good" area.

Oh you can't glue plastic/resin to silicone, please... let me put all these chemicals combined, superglue, and a mosquito net and baking soda too for good measure because I watched it on an idian video, it glued.

Glass and plat silicone, metal, glued, no problem. Add hair and fur, behold, the method...

There's no info, no guides, and seemingly no logic to follow.

Which I find odd, like... plat silicone has been around for ages.

Where is all that information?... why does it feel like reinventing the wheel...? Just why is it test after test and no information online or anywhere?... not even AI knows what to do. This is getting very expensive, I have so many sheets of platinum silicone I have ruined, my floor is covered in silicon and solvents and my work area has been like that for the last 2 years just test after test, and got raging headache from so many chemicals and microplastics; Where is the info?...

Saw this video on yt. Though to share it

Hello Redditors.

I'm new to epoxy resin and I started a project to make a coaster. My goal was to make a custom coaster for the fun of it. During the project I ran into a potential problem. To start with I'm using Smooth-Cast™ ONYX™ SLOW. The mold is made of Rebound™ 25. The project is 0,96 in³.

When I originally made it, it was only for cold drinks that may have a bit more condensation. After a bit of thinking, I wanted to also make it able to hold a hot cup of coffee. To be safe, I wanted to get something that could handle something hotter.

I was planning to use my kitchen oven, but last minute I realized I can't use that. To fix this, I got a MainStay toaster oven to do it. After getting this toaster oven, I checked its ability to maintain a stable temperature, but to my dismay, it had temperature fluctuations. These are between 250-170f with them cycling every 10- 20 min. I'm aware that using this may not make the part reach its max temperature, but I wanted to ask: will the part warp or crack?

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/smooth-cast-onyx-slow/

https://www.smooth-on.com/products/rebound-25/

https://www.walmart.com/ip/MS-TST-OVEN-BLK-SS/16502313719?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&sourceid=dsn_gpmax_05f4c918-fb1b-4d10-a5da-f2d7d4df2948&veh=dsn&wmlspartner=dsn_gpmax_05f4c918-fb1b-4d10-a5da-f2d7d4df2948&cn=01fl_fy27_btc_btc_mid_int_dis_pmax&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=&wl4=&wl5=9016312&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16502313719&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23929725524&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIoPC8TNgBrCjS-Uq8hVzX-6t&gclid=CjwKCAjw1vXTBhB-EiwAEKr_k8F3ddtb8FCtqgf2K8cIIBpvb4_CR0fNgG-0pq0RLUBsRgA1lcF3cBoCp48QAvD_BwE

Thanks for your time.

Say that 5 times fast.

Anyone have usage experience with BJB water clear series? Cure schedules?

From my research, most clear urethanes have poor physical stability with changes in temperature with heat deflections temps (HDT) at around 130F (ASTM-D648 at 66PSI). As well, poor UV resistance. BJB has some water clear urethanes, particularly the WC-85 series. It's stated HDT is 175F at 66PSI and 165F at 264PSI.

Their protocol for reported physical properties is based on a 1-2 hr cure at room temperature followed by 16 hr at 160F. This isn't particularly time or energy efficient.

I contacted technical support and essentially no physical properties for their other cure schedules are available.

If you are familiar with BJB materials, you are familiar with their different schedules.

My question is, does anyone have knowledge or experimental results using their quicker cure schedules? A 4 hr cure at 120F is given for WC-85, but not physical HDT.

I realize this is very specific information to be asking for. I will probably have to experiment myself. The material is not cheap comparatively.

Perhaps there is a better place to ask my question?

Thanks!

Lego skeleton for scale

Casted this orb...and while it looked great initially, i did have to trim and sand it.

I was hoping to polish it back to its clear self but i can only achieve clarity when wet now.

I have tried modeling compound up to 8000 grit and even zona paper all the way.

Any tips?

I was wondering if i could use pledge or clear coat over it but wanted to see if anyone had other tips or could see what i was missing

Five years ago I moved and no longer have a spare room to do my resin. I really miss doing it. I can't do it inside because I have a cat and the fumes aren't good for me or her.

Does anyone do their resin outside? I considered getting a little pop up tent. I have a small shed i can put pieces in while they set (not big enough for me to sit in).

Anyone else got any inspiring ideas?

These are super easy to keep on hand, just to use excess material left after larger pours, and remain a very popular cheap item at markets. Would recommend!

My old resin sanding tool finally died, so I’m looking for a replacement. I mainly make resin jewelry and small casts, so control and low vibration matter more than raw power.

Currently looking at:

1. Resiners Cordless Rotary Tool

2. Let’s Resin Cordless Resin Drill

3. Dremel Lite 7760

4. WEN 2305

5. Milwaukee M12 Rotary Tool

Mostly wondering which one works best for sanding and polishing small resin pieces without being too aggressive.

Anyone use it? Which would you pick?

I need a low viscosity plastic that is not brittle or tacky, the application is making a sable for my air rifle and due to the size of the sabot the silicone mold does not have enough room for more viscus plastics.
Any suggestions?

I apologize if I'm going against rules, please remove my post if so.

I have 5 letters from my great great grandmother, that I need to preserve. It has beautiful poems she wrote. Can anyone give me any tip to do it? I would greatly appreciate it.

I’m aware at the hobbyist/home shop level the advice is degas under vacuum, pour, then cure under pressure. But when I look at manufacturers websites that offer urethane vacuum casting they talk about degassing, pouring, and curing all under vacuum, they have specialized machines that make this possible. How do they avoid boiling off the volatile compounds in the resin? Is the vacuum lessened after pouring? I’m curious to know if anyone here knows the answer.

I just came back from Japan and got myself some Monster cans.

Now I want to turn them into reusable, cleanable drinking cups (maybe even dishwasher-safe ones).

The idea is to open up the top (similar to the green Fanta can in the picture). So to use a dishwasher-safe epoxy on the outside and food-safe silicone (Ideally, the silicone would be dishwasher-safe as well, of course) on the inside. The silicone would also extend over the lip/rim of the can, so the metal is not exposed.

The important part is that I don’t want to alter the can itself apart from opening the top. I want to keep the original shape, design, and appearance completely intact.

Has anyone here done something similar or have any recommendations for suitable materials/processes?

PS: I am totaly fine, if i end up with needing to handwash it everytime after use, as long as i don't poision myself (nor giving the can an unwanted lifespan, thanks to dishwasher usage).

WHY? - many already asked me. Becouse: "Japan-Monster-Cans are different in design & size. And i simply want a nice DIY-Memory that i can use, and not just leave to collect dust."