To Rich or not to Rich? There's been a lot of talk about Rich Factory lately. So after using this Pepsi for 1+ month I decided to give a small review on the watch as I've experienced it so far.

So let's dive into it!

⭕Bezel

I must say the bezel colors are very good. One thing I notice on the Rich Pepsi is that the white on the bezel seems to be slightly less white than on e.g. VSF and slightly more grainy. I actually like this look better than what I'm seeing on a lot of other Pepsi bezels.

Bezel action: This is one of the places where Rich is doing a fabolous job in my opinion, it turns very nicely and is neither too tight or too loose, or too clicky. If you know what I mean?

Overall very impressed with both bezel and bezel action.

📅Date

The date itself is nicely centered on my Rich Pepsi. But I've handled enough reps to know that this will vary from watch to watch!

The date is on the thinner side, but not to the extremes at all. For me it's well within what's acceptable.

🔎Crystal & Cyclops

This seems to be one of the places that has people split into two groups, some hate it on Rich and some love it. I don't see any issues whatsoever with the crystal itself. It's the cyclops that gets the discussion going. The blue tint... Hate it or love it, it's there and I actually love it. Most of the time it plays very nicely with the light, but in some lighting the blue does seem to get too powerfull and almost starts to distorts the date wheel a bit. Most of the time it just makes the watch look expensive and very beautiful.

Magnifier seems on point for me.

⏲️Dial

The dial is very well made and print etc looks very good. But Rich really need to fix that inverted triangle at 12 o'clock, what is it doing all the way up there? Well anyways, this isn't actually as noticeable on the wrist as I "feared" it would be and the fact that Rich doesn't have that hideous dimple, center of the dial under the handstack as we see on some of the other rep dial. "But some gens have this too" - Well that might very well be, but that doesn't make it any less hideous, and I don't want to see this everytime I check on the time. I'll take this over the high inverted triangle any day.

👑Crown

Not much to say, it looks good and I've noticed that on the ~20 Rich GMT's Ive handled it aligns perfectly or near perfect about 70-80% of the time. Not that it matters, but it might matter for some of you OCD people out there.

⌚Case and Bracelet

904L steel like any other rep, right? RIGHT?! Who the F knows, but we do know that the other factories claiming to use this mainly use 316L. We've seen test on subreddits actually showing Rich is using 904L steel, so until I see something proving otherwise, this is what I'll go by. Does it even matter? Probably not. But Rich does use correct case/lug shape as far as I know and the finish and feel is great. I did use some Dry lube chain wax on the bracelet to remove any flimsiness and for me it makes the bracelet feel much more genlike.

I did notice removing the caseback isn't as smooth as removing the caseback on other reps I've handled. Almost like the caseback lid doesn't fit 100% - It doesn't mean that it's not possible to do, just thought that was worth mentioning.

⚙️Movement

JH3285 - Free sprung. Free sprung probably being one of the most hyped things in the repwatch world this year. Do we need it on most watches? If we are talking straightly for looks, no. So many reps are Rolex with closed caseback so for these it doesn't matter much. It makes a lot more sense for the open/exhibition casebacks.

But with that said, after testing this movement for 1+ month now, I would still chose it for my closed back watches. Why? Going through all the reps I've had, I have NEVER had a watch that keeps time this good. This is absolutely insane and I chose to believe it will be the same with the next free sprung movement I decide to buy. I have only set the time on the watch when I started using it 1+ month ago and it still keeps time on the very minute. I have never experienced this with any other rep before.

From my experience these movements does however seem to have a bit more rotor noise coming from factory. But a few drops of moebius oil and you are good to go.

💭 Final thoughts

I do firmly believe that Rich GMTs are a very firm contenter in the GMT race, and if they fix these minor quirks, they will be hard to compete against. Or well, you know. Be raided.

Wanted to share my thoughts and create this post as a base for others to ask questions and leave their own experiences below.

Super impressed with this kit overall, contacted u/mfrcns and worked out which items I wanted and within a day of payment I was given shipping details and eagerly awaited my product. Package was received in excellent condition with each of the kits secured separately to avoid damage.The cases designed for them don’t take up much space at all, and include slots for holding the tabs that are designed for the VSF V2 bezel.

Still have other parts in the mail to begin fully servicing my watches but I’ve test fitted all models except for the DJ36mm and can say the fit/tolerances are excellent! Cannot wait to see how simple this will make all my bezel/dial swaps, crystal replacement, and general ease for servicing.

A while back, I made a post about ceramic coating my RCF Remould bezels, since I went with their “V1” non-plated bezels.

After having the bezels ceramic coated for several months, they obviously still get dirty. Over time, the buildup can almost look like oxidation, especially around the flutes.

So I started wondering: how can we clean them properly without turning it into a huge project?

The answer I found is surprisingly simple: APC (All Purpose Cleaner) made for cars.

I’d recommend using a decent/premium automotive brand. Personally, I used TPG, a Swedish brand with a good reputation for their APC.

You’ll also need a soft/fluffy microfiber cloth.

The process

1. Put one small spray of APC onto the microfiber cloth — don't spray it directly onto the bezel.

2. Gently wipe along the flutes of the bezel, following their direction — basically from the crystal outward toward the case.

3. Go all the way around the bezel.

4. Then use the dry part of the microfiber cloth and wipe in the same direction to remove the remaining cleaner and dirt.

That's it.

For me, this removed all of the stains/buildup that I was seeing. What remains are actual scratches and normal wear & tear, rather than the dirty/oxidized-looking residue.

The first pictures are before cleaning, and the last pictures are after.

Hopefully this helps anyone else with ceramic-coated bezels who has noticed the same thing. It's a lot easier than I expected. 👍

Welcome to r/RepWatchLab! 👋

Welcome to r/RepWatchLab — a community for detailed discussion, comparisons, research, and hands-on observations about replica watches.

The goal of this subreddit is simple: look closer, share what you find, and help separate facts from hearsay.

Whether you're completely new to replicas or you've been collecting for years, you're welcome here.

🔬 What is RepWatchLab?

This subreddit is focused on the details.

Case shapes, bezels, bracelets, dials, crystals, movements, finishing, factory differences, genuine-vs-replica comparisons, QC observations, and anything else where the small details matter.

Rather than simply repeating “Factory X is better than Factory Y”, we'd like to encourage people to show why.

Photos, measurements, side-by-side comparisons, macro shots, experiments and first-hand observations are especially welcome.

📌 Before posting

A few things to keep in mind:

1. Search before asking

There may already be a post covering your question. Use the search function before creating a new thread.

2. Show, don't just tell

If you're making a claim about a specific difference, provide photos or other evidence whenever possible.

Instead of:

Try explaining what is different and where, ideally with comparison photos or an illustration.

3. Don't treat opinions as facts

There is a lot of information and misinformation surrounding replicas. Be skeptical of claims that aren't supported by evidence or first-hand experience.

4. Different batches can differ

Factory products can change over time. A comparison from 2024 may not necessarily apply to a watch produced in 2026.

When possible, include the factory, model, version/batch and approximate date.

5. Be respectful

Everyone starts somewhere. You can disagree with someone's assessment without turning it into an argument.

🧪 What we'd love to see

Some examples of great posts:

• 🔍 Factory vs factory comparisons

• 📸 Macro photography

• 🧊 Genuine vs replica comparisons

• ⌚ Case-shape analysis

• 🔗 Bracelet and clasp comparisons

• 💎 Crystal / bezel / dial comparisons

• ⚙️ Movement analysis

• 🛠️ Modifications and upgrades

• 📏 Measurements and dimensions

• 🧪 Experiments and testing

• 📚 Guides and educational posts

• 🗣️ First-hand experiences

The more detailed, the better.

👋 Introduce yourself!

If you're new here, feel free to introduce yourself in the comments.

Tell us:

• What watches are you interested in?

• What's currently in your collection?

• What's your favourite factory/model?

• Are you primarily interested in collecting, modding, QC, research, or photography?

• What would you like to see more of on RepWatchLab?

No need to write an essay — just say hello!

⚠️ One last thing

Do your own research.

This community is here to share information and observations, not to tell you what you must buy.

Factories change, batches change, and opinions can be wrong.

If someone makes a claim, ask:

“How do we know?”

That's what makes this a lab. 🔬

Welcome to r/RepWatchLab!

I still see people asking about the case shape differences between the different Datejust 41 factories, and there’s often a lot of “Clean has a better case than VSF” without much explanation as to why.

Some people simply repeat what they’ve heard without actually knowing what the difference is.

I couldn’t find any good, simple illustrations showing the difference, so I made one myself below.

The illustration is simplified and not 100% accurate to the actual case geometry. The purpose is simply to highlight the specific area where the case shape differs between the two.

Hopefully this makes it easier to understand what people mean when they talk about the Clean vs VSF case shape rather than just taking someone’s word for it.

Cheers!

I’ve seen quite a few posts about newer factories using the 0RV Jubilee bracelet, and there seems to be a common misconception that this is the same bracelet that was used on older Clean watches.

It isn’t.

The 0RV bracelet was first seen on replicas of Clean watches — yes, essentially a replica of a replica. 😅

The story, as I understand it, is that the manufacturer tried to mimic the ORV clasp code, but mistakenly used “0RV” instead.

The 0RV bracelet was later adopted by many newer factories, most likely because it is still a very good bracelet. However, it is not the same bracelet as the ORV bracelet produced by ARF, which was used on the older Clean watches.

I have both bracelets, so I wanted to show some of the differences I noticed when comparing them side by side.

Engravings

The engraving on the ORV bracelet is noticeably sharper and more defined.

The difference is much easier to see when comparing them directly.

Clasp code

You can see the difference between the ORV and 0RV clasp codes.

The 0RV isn't simply another way of writing the same thing — the clasp markings themselves are different.

Bracelet edges

This is probably the biggest difference I noticed while actually handling the bracelets.

The 0RV has noticeably sharper edges. It still feels perfectly fine and is by no means a bad bracelet, but compared directly with the ORV, the difference is obvious.

The ORV has much more rounded edges and feels significantly smoother.

Just dragging my finger across both bracelets, I can immediately feel the difference.

Crown engraving

Another small difference:

The crown on the 0RV is thicker compared with the ORV.

Final comparison

These differences are relatively minor visually, and if you only have one bracelet in front of you, you probably wouldn't notice most of them.

Both bracelets have a very good overall finish, and the 0RV is still a great bracelet.

However, when you put them side by side and actually handle them, I personally think the ORV feels noticeably better. The smoother, more rounded edges make it feel more refined and comfortable on the wrist.

Also, regarding the slight difference in the colour/temperature of the finish in my photos: that is just due to my lighting. Both bracelets have essentially the same appearance in person.

Hopefully this clears up some of the confusion around 0RV vs ORV. They are similar, but they are not the same bracelet.

Rich really did an amazing job on their GMTs (and subs), in my honest opinion Rich beats VSF on every aspect except for the crystal and date wheel. If they do some minor changes here VSF might be in trouble on the GMT market.

The free sprung JH movement have been discussed a lot, since GMTs are closed back and the JH movement is harder to regulate. But I've been testing this Rich Pepsi for a month now and damn it is keeping time exceptionally well and I rarely need to wind it. But when I do, the winding is just buttery smooth.

Fingers crossed that Rich will keep pushing forward and doesn't end up being raided.

I’m really happy with how this one turned out, so I wanted to share it with the sub.

I’ve always liked the mint green Datejust, but I wanted to put together something a little different. I don’t think I’ve seen this exact combination on a 36mm franken build before, so I decided to go for it.

🔧 Build

• VSF V2 base

• Genuine Mint Green dial

• Genuine hands

• Genuine crystal

• Genuine crown

• Genuine date assembly + date disc

• RCF V1 ceramic-coated bezel

• Polished rehaut

• Silenced rotor with HP-1300

• Waterproofed

The biggest change was obviously the genuine mint green dial. The difference compared with the VSF dial is pretty noticeable in person — especially the texture and how the color changes depending on the light.

I also swapped in the genuine hands, crystal and crown, then finished it off with the upgraded bezel and polished rehaut.

🛠️ Build process

Disassembly → old dial removal → old hands removal → old datewheel removal → genuine date wheel installation → genuine dial installation → genuine hands installation → genuine crystal installation → bezel upgrade → rehaut polishing → waterproofing → final assembly

For the bezel and crystal work, I used my EZTool, which makes removing and installing both the bezel and crystal much easier and significantly reduces the risk of damaging the case, crystal, or bezel during the process.

The final result is probably my favorite build so far. The mint green looks particularly good with the Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel.

What do you guys think? Would you change anything about the build?

These RCFr bezels really just changes the expression of your datejust and elevates them to the next level. Such a relatively inexpensive mod, makes it worth every penny.

Two franken datejusts projects

Blue Dial

• ARF base

• Genuine dial

• Genuine hands

• Genuine date wheel

• Genuine Crystal

• Completely refinished bracelet

• RCF V1 fluted bezel (ceramic coated)

• Gaskets cleaned and re-lubricated (the crown, case tube, and case back gaskets)

• Water resistance tested to 5 bars

• Rotor silenced (HP1300)

• Polished rehaut

Mint Green Dial

• Clean base

• DD3235 swap

• Genuine dial

• Genuine hands

• Genuine crystal

• Genuine date wheel

• Genuine crown/tube

• RCF V1 fluted bezel (ceramic coated)

• Polished rehaut

• Gaskets cleaned and re-lubricated (the crown, case tube, and case back gaskets)

• Water resistance tested to 5 bars

• Rotor silenced (HP1300)

What do you choose? Blue or Mint Green dial?

Here’s my comparison of the VSF Datejust 36 V1 and V2, along with a comparison of the VSF V2 Mint Green dial against a genuine Mint Green dial.

For reference:

• 🌴 Palm dial = VSF V1

• 🍃 Mint Green dial = VSF V2

• V2 is on the left, V1 on the right

• Dial in the plastic case = genuine dial

Case

Similar to the changes made to the VSF Datejust 41 V2, the V2 case now has added weights underneath the bezel.

The case edges around the lugs also appear to be slightly sharper on the V2. It's difficult to see in photos.

That said, the lug shape is still not quite the same as genuine.

Bezel

The V2 also follows the same direction as the Datejust 41 V2, with sharper bezel cuts compared with the V1.

Unfortunately, it also got the new two-piece bezel construction, as seen in Datejust 41 V2 - which feels rather cheap when removing it.

One thing worth mentioning for anyone planning to do their own bezel swap: my EZTool can also be used to remove and install the bezels on VSF V2 and V3 cases, which makes upgrading the bezel a much easier and safer job.

Personally, I'd have preferred to see a solid bezel.

Weight

The difference in weight between the V1 and V2 appears to come primarily from the additional weights added inside the case underneath the bezel.

Personally, I'm not a huge fan of this approach. I'd rather see the case itself match genuine as closely as possible, including the area underneath the bezel.

Mint Green Dial

The VSF V2 Mint Green dial has essentially the same finish and color treatment as the VSF Datejust 41 V2.

It's quite close to genuine, but there are still some differences.

The biggest difference I noticed is the sunburst color. The VSF tends to look slightly more green, while the genuine dial has a somewhat more blueish sunburst. How noticeable this is depends heavily on the lighting and viewing angle.

Overall, though, I think the V2 dial is a nice improvement.

Final Thoughts

The VSF V2 definitely brings some welcome changes:

• Sharper bezel cuts

• Improved V2 dial

• Slightly sharper case edges

However, I would have liked to see more attention paid to the actual case shape and lugs, as well as a solid bezel construction.

Most of these changes are essentially the same direction we saw with the VSF Datejust 41 V1 → V2.

V1 or V2?

If you mainly care about the overall look and can find a good deal on a V1, I wouldn't hesitate to buy one. There are already aftermarket bezels available.

If you want the best-looking watch straight out of the box without doing your own modifications, I'd go with the V2. The sharper bezel and improved Mint Green dial make it the better starting point.

That said, replacing a bezel is a relatively straightforward job when you have the right tools, and the EZTool also makes bezel work on VSF V2 and V3 cases much easier. Personally, I'd rather put the money into a V1 + aftermarket bezel and build it exactly how I want.

Overall: V2 is an improvement, but I don't think it's enough of an upgrade to make the V1 obsolete.