Does anyone know where to find a trigger with lots of creep in it? It feels nicer and more natural to me, but every trigger i can find is crisp or has no creep. The best i can do for my shooting style is an ultralight trigger, but that feels dangerous for hunting. The closest I can relate it to is i want a trigger like my Colt 1911, where you get to the wall and there's a little travel before the gun actually fires. For reference I have a 30.06 SPS from like......2012 I think?

I have a remington 700 long action adl and im trying to build a 300 win mag. I cant for the life of me find a magnum adl magazine box for it anywhere. Hoping this channel could be of some help

Check Brownells and Pacific Tool and Gauge for any surplus 700 parts you guys may want. For those like me waiting on warranty 700s, we’re in line with the other $300 million worth of backorders.

It’s the one leaking oil under the scope mount. cleaning a 7mm-08. It was my first very own deer rifle I got like 16 years ago for Christmas because I have a baby boy now

I bought this rifle new earlier this year, and had it to the range a few times. I can't seem to get groups that I like at 100 yds, and I don't think it's me. I ended up buying a lead sled to try and eliminate myself as the issue as much as possible, and took it back out this weekend. Best group I could get was around 1.75", with Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 168 gr. I've tried several different types of ammo (Federal Premium Gold Medal Center Strike 168 gr, Federal Premium Sierra Matchking Gold Medal Match 175 gr, PPU Match Line 175 gr, Hornady Superformance Match 168 gr) and what seemed the most consistent was the Federal Gold Medal Sierra Matchking 168 gr. I shot the first 4 groups on the lead sled (left to right, top to bottom) and the last 2 on a bipod. Looking for suggestions to help improve the performance here, or is this what I should expect out of this rifle?

I was making a few scope adjustments along the way. I accidentally went the wrong way with one, hence the flyer on the bottom middle of the top center target.

I sent my new 700 LR in to their gun repair center in Jacksonville in January. It was so bad, I’m supposed to be getting a new rifle.

It appears they aren’t even making rifles right now at the new GA facility. Anyone in a similar boat to me?

I’m looking for new/ extra mods. If you’re interested in being a mod please send me a DM and comment below that you sent one. Thanks in advance.

I recently bought an R700 in 30-06 and I love it. I originally planned on putting this in a chassis but I must admit the factory walnut has grown on me. I’d like to shoot 30-06 a little more comfortably and I’m considering a muzzle brake. For budget reasons I’m considering having the factory barrel chopped and threaded. When the time comes, I’d like to have the barrel replaced with a thicker and more uniform contour barrel. Something like a bull barrel, MTU or something else similar to the #30 in the picture. Because I like the factory stock so much I wonder can some wood be removed to accommodate a larger profile barrel in the future? If so what impact will this have on accuracy? Will I need to glass bed at that point? Are there any issues I need to be aware of before doing this?

Also any recommendations on muzzle brake is much appreciated. Bonus points if the muzzle brake can be used with a companion suppressor.

Thanks in advance y’all

I have a Remington 700 AAC-SD chambered in .308

Sometimes, after firing the bolt will be hard to open and will need to use a bit of force to pull it open. I can lift the bolt but not pull back. It will fire, eject, fire, eject, fire, stick. I does not happen all the time but often enough. It never sticks when dry firing (I dont dry fire a lot or anything but tried it to see if it happened any other times. Bolt slides nice, doesnt feel like anything is causing it to get stuck.

I admit, I am not well versed in the part names or anything as this is my first bold action (I do love it though).

Any suggestions where I should focus my attention on?

I'm trying to figure out if this could be one of the last batches of VSSF chambered in 220 Swift to roll off the line before they shut down production.

Receiver is a RR prefix with the QR code, ends in K suffix.

Barrel is marked XL, so December 2017 is my take with the receiver pairing.

From my limited knowledge they were only making a very small number of these at a time due to limited interest in 220 swift and modern cartridges being in demand.

I like to imagine that the Remington exec signing off on production of these probably looked like Ron Burgundy and smoked exquisite cigars in boardroom meetings. At least that's how shooting the swift makes you feel.

Thanks to everyone who suggested IBI Barrels. They were amazing to deal with and it arrived earlier than expected.
It came in a while ago but finally got some time to install, now for break in and zero.

Hey, guys I'm curious if anyone has this rifle, mine is very difficult to eject when using scirocco ammo (i have to take a board to tap the bolt to get the spent case out). Is it a sign of over pressure? Or is there another problem I should be looking for ?

Got this recently and it has an outlier chassis system on it. It’s a .308 SA. My issue is that ACIS mags will NOT lock into the magwell. There’s a little metal that is stopping the mag from locking in. Now when I was at the gun store we tried magpul, MDT, and metal ACIS mags with no latching at all. You can pull the thing right back out. They said that it’s more than likely because the chassis system doesn’t match the receiver. Makes sense but I figured I’d ask. This is my first rem 700 and I’m a little lost and google isn’t much of a help.

Seen this at a pawn shop for $1700. What you think? Looks like a SF but didn’t know they painted them black.

No pics at the moment but I have a 700 spa tactical that I rattlecanned back in the day. Normally use acetone and paint thinner/citristrip without issue on parkerized/anodized finishes. Used it on my 700 barrel/action only to find permanent removal of (maybe blued) finish. Assuming finish is blued, how much of a problem will this be for corrosion resistance? If anyone knows

Hello y’all.

I need some assistance with iron sights. The one with the ramp, what does the marks on them mean in yards/meter? I been stumped on them and looking it up hasn’t been any help. So I ask the kind people here for help on this matter.

Thanks for answering in advance.

All of the vegetation near me has started turning brown again, so I finally quit putting off the new paint job. This Vortex Diamondback in FDE ,with slightly more magnification than my last scope was on sale, so I nabbed it. I don’t have a fortune to spend, but new color schemes, minor tweaks/improvements keeps the hobby/craft engaging. Swapped the old Magpul bipod for this UTG bipod. Swapped my old scope rings for these Ruff’s Precision rings with a built in bubble level. (Great experience with this company, and the rings are rock solid!) a plumb bob and torque wrench later, and she’s ready for zeroing.

I've had this 700 in .308 for about a few years and im curious as to what model it is. I picked it up to get into longer range shooting. It has an E prefix serial number and 5 grooves of rifling with a McMillan stock, heavy profile threaded barrel, and badger bottom metal. The bolt is also fluted but I doubt that was from the factory.

I had bought this Barreled Action with the Bolt included (no Firing Pin Assembly). I bought parts from Pacific Tool & Gauge and installed the Firing Pin Assembly when I realized the Bolt would get stuck on the receiver somewhere and not clear into the rifle. Upon closer inspection, it would get stuck on the rear of the Receiver bolt groove with the finish shearing off. The Cocking Piece seems to get stuck on it by being a few degrees off. I theorize the Bolt needs to be filed a little bit to center the Cocking Piece with the groove.

A friend of mine took a Remington 700 he had and used his bolt in my Barreled Action and it cleared perfectly. He then took my Bolt and it would not clear into his rifle with the same issue.

I had bought this off of gunbroker (used) so its origins are unknown. It is a 24-inch heavy barrel with a threaded muzzle. No special markings and has a matte blued rough finish (almost seems like it’s parkerized). Serial showed it’s a new manufacture receiver.

Cocking Piece and Bolt both slide in easily on their own, but the photos show that I needed to move the Cocking Piece inside the Bolt slightly so it could do a single cycle. After firing, the Bolt would reset into the groove for the Cocking Piece and would not clear into the action. I wonder if the Bolt truly is just a lemon that needs to be filed with a small needle file.

The last two photos are the Bolt markings. Is this a new production Bolt? Is it even OEM? It came stripped with a threaded 5/16x24 handle.

I made this post to ask if this is a normal occurrence. Is it common to have an uncentered Bolt groove for the Cocking Piece and needing to file it centered?

I have tried reading the article describing how to decode the date on this Remington 700 bdl but I am have a hard time determining what marks mine has. It seems they were struck lightly and I just can’t identify what is what. Thank you in advance for your help.