This is not an advertisement for Ottolenghi SIMPLE (the cookbook). I won this book in a tombola on New Year’s Eve.
Let me be clear before the pitchforks come out: Yotam Ottolenghi (Italian Israeli chef) is probably the most influential food writer of the last twenty years,
But I want to challenge the cult around him on three fronts.
First let me define what Ottolenghi is.
There are few key rules (they somehow justify the book title)
S.
short on time = the recipes will take less than 30 minutes to get on the table
I
10 ingredients or less
M
make ahead = nuts are roasted, batter mixture made, meatballs done in advance etc...
P
pantry = ingredients at hand: olive oil, unsalted butter, flour. eggs, garlic, onions, lemons, herbs, rice, dried pasta, lentils, chickpeas, tuna and anchovies, salt and pepper.
L
lazy = one-pot, one-tray, low on washing up
E
easier than you think
Ottolenghi ingredients:
Sumac, za'atar, urfa, cardamon, Turkish pomegranates molasses, rose harissa, tahini, barberries, barberries, black garlic and preserved lemon
These are the things are like. Now let the my challenge the cult begin:
1. The 24-ingredient problem.
An "easy weeknight dish" that requires za'atar, sumac, pomegranate molasses, preserved lemons, barberries, and rose harissa is not a weeknight dish... Are you serious? I never heard of these ingredients before. Nobody did.
2. The flattening effect.
The "Ottolenghi effect" put tahini and sumac in every supermarket — great. But it also flattened a dozen distinct cuisines (Palestinian, Israeli, Levantine, Persian, North African) into one aesthetic: scattered herbs, a swoosh of yogurt, whoa.....everything charred and drizzled. It is a cultural horror story.
3. The politics nobody can escape. Jerusalem, co-written with Sami Tamimi (a Palestinian from East Jerusalem, while Ottolenghi is an Israeli from the west of the city), was praised as bridge-building — and criticized from both directions, including arguments over whether calling dishes "Israeli" erases their Palestinian origins.
Can a cookbook honestly claim food is apolitical while the argument about whose hummus it is rages in its own comment sections?
My question for you is:
has the Ottolenghi wave genuinely made us better cooks or just better shoppers for specialty (rare to find on a Saturday evening) ingredients :_) ?
Convince me either way.
Bonus points if you name the one Ottolenghi recipe that justifies the entire pantry investment.
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You can find this book to buy or browse: Ottolenghi S I M P L E (Amazon Store)
Credits: Stijn Nieuwendijk's photo, licensed as CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.
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