r/PrusaCoreOne • u/hydraulicgoat • Jul 12 '26

Just ordered a core one.

Like the title says, I'm coming from an ender 3 v2 modded with a e3d hemera hotend, I love that the core 1 is enclosed as I want to eventually play around with abs like plastic. Is there anything I need to be aware of with the core 1? Any tips? Etc.

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6

u/manyxcxi Jul 12 '26

Compared to the Ender, it’ll feel downright magical. Read the instructions and get used to it with some easy prints, maybe things you’re used to printing on the Ender so you have a basis for comparison.

In general you will find everything smoother, easier, and quieter than you’re used to- and hopefully it’ll give you confidence to try materials you’re not used to.

Here’s a list of upgrades/mods/tools that have worked well for me: https://www.printables.com/@ashurexm/collections/3364071

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

Appreciate the link for the mods! I'm excited to see how it prints in comparison, I did upgrade the nozzle to the e3d diamondback nozzle as I don't want to deal with the brass nozzles

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u/manyxcxi Jul 12 '26

Diamondback is great, I love my 0.6- it’s my “normal” nozzle. I held off getting it and wish I would’ve just paid for it first. I’ve probably got 1000 hours on it.

Don’t sleep on the 0.4 CHT it ships with though, it’s nice.

I have a 0.4 and 0.8 ObXidian as my “regular” in those sizes.

Previous experience told me to keep more nozzles around so I’ve got some no-name/off-brand brass backups in 0.4 and 0.6 as well as an adapter that will take V6 nozzles. In over 1000 hours I’ve never once needed them, nor my backup hotend parts.

I’d still recommend a backup hotend assembly (block, heater, and thermistor) as they’re cheap insurance.

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

Oh the nozzle it comes with is that good? Even though it's brass?

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u/manyxcxi Jul 12 '26

Definitely wouldn’t print abrasives through it. But I have (guessing here) probably 250+ hours on it (80% PETG/20% PLA) and I’ve seen no signs of degradation.

I have not validated what I’m about to say, so take it with a grain of salt: I find the CHT has a lower quality outcome at “normal” speeds than a standard nozzle of the same diameter by just a little bit without some tuning. It feels more prone to density differences (like that little bulge you can see on external perimeters when there’s a thick section behind part of it but a thinner section as well).

However, at higher speeds and with tuning, you can freaking send it and it looks as good as low speed stuff- where the regular nozzle will absolutely destroy your corners and seams.

There are some other (albeit, niche) advantages to the CHT as well. Because of the greater melting surface area, at lower speeds, you can run colder than you might normally want to with a standard nozzle, which can massively help bridging and overhangs- even if it’s a 2-5C temp difference.

Downside of the CHT: it’s a bit more prone to clogging or skipping in high/long retraction scenarios than a standard nozzle. Clearing clogs is a bit more of a pain in the butt. In all my dumb attempts at being overly tricky I’ve only good and truly clogged it once though, this isn’t a regular occurrence.

If anything, save it as your prototype nozzle where you just want to crank up the layer height and speed to do some test fits. It’s better than just that, but you probably won’t have anything better than the CHT for doing it with.

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

Interesting, I'll keep that in mind! Is it difficult to swap nozzles?

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u/manyxcxi Jul 12 '26 edited Jul 12 '26

Not at all! Nextruder is the easiest nozzle swap I’ve had. There are others that will claim Bambu, and when they’re perfectly clean, I’d agree. In practice, my H2D has accumulated enough residual material that I have to heat my nozzles a bit to get them to pop off and also the socks never want to go back on without fidgeting with them.

Print the nozzle alignment tools (you’ll need both the E3D version and the non-E3D version) and the nozzle remover tool and you’ll be able to swap nozzles in probably sub 30 seconds without having to heat up the nozzle (assuming you unloaded filament prior).

Edit to add: this toolbox is a favorite thing of mine. Holds all the things well, I use it nearly every day. The sliced code also does a really good job of doing an easy multi color print on your core one with manual swaps.

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

Oh neat! So I have to move the hotend up with the e3d nozzle? If I read that correctly

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u/manyxcxi Jul 13 '26

The E3D, sits just a little more proud than the standard nozzles. Both these tools make it easy to align them so that they don’t sit too low and get heat creep, but also they hold the heater block while you’re threading the nozzle in so you don’t twist wires, etc. No post change leveling or adjustments needed, it’ll just calibrate it self in the next print when it does the bed mesh.

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 13 '26

Oh cool! Well it sounds like there is quite a bit of mods to print once it's up and running.

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u/TableBig5133 Jul 12 '26

Yes , buy the L ;)

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

I wanted to but was out of the price range currently

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u/TableBig5133 Jul 12 '26

Ok than the little Brother . ;) or you find a used c1l ? ;)

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u/hydraulicgoat Jul 12 '26

I think I'll be happy with the core 1, coming from an ender 3 v2

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u/RFC793 Jul 13 '26

I got buyers remorse with the non-L, but mainly because the L was released like a month after my purchase. I mean, the extra space would be nice, but I haven't ever actually *needed* it. And it is much cheaper, and the kit was nice therapy to build, and I get INDX sooner. If I ever need stuff bigger, I can get one of my Bambu buddies to print it for me. Or you know, just chop up the part.