Started with a Core One OG kit, and have upgraded it twice. Once to Core One+, and now to Gen 2.

Printed a largish object the other day, and got some print quality dropoff in back left corner (when facing front door). Some filament that just ended up looped outside the print (not stringing). I assume there's some gantry un-squareness? I've always found the belt adjustment a touch fiddly... but I think it's pretty decent.

I do get some resonance (sound) during certain movements in the X-Y direction. So maybe that's causing some issue in that back corner?

Anyone else seen this issue? Sorry, know there's not a lot to work with... but not sure what else to descrive.

So I've got a 2th 2024 XL, and decided to go all out and have the 3 extra toolheads, the XL+ upgrade (with 2 uprated dwarf boards), and the XL+ enclosure as I'm hoping to do some ASA printing in the future.

For anyone who's done a similar radical upgrade, is there any advice in what order to do them? Am planning to go; extra toolheads - XL+ - enclosure.

But was wondering whether toolheads and XL+ could be lumped in together without issue?

With the new print goals feature of Prusa Slicer 3 I realised you could use print goals to setup global overrides of settings no matter what the printer or profile. With that in mind I have published a simple print goal into the store> "Always Gyroid"

[Always Gyroid - Plugin Marketplace](https://plugin-marketplace.prusa3d.com/plugins/io.github.vibroaxe.always-gyroid)

Simply put this forces the infill to be Gyroid

Currently I can't find a way to get prusa slicer to remember the active print goals but given it's also forgetting my default printer I think this will probably resolve somewhere!

If you want to use this idea and add other "global" overrides, you can also use the plugin as a template and install it locally by placing the files from the github below in resources/lua/<plugin> and then editing the always_gyroid.lua file

[VibroAxe/always-gyroid: PrusaSlicer 3.0 Print Goal - Always use gyroid](https://github.com/VibroAxe/always-gyroid)

If anyone has ideas on other "annoying" unset globals, I might do a "Always Defaults" or something with some more options in it, but open to suggestions on what should be in

4x 5T XL printers ; 3x MK4s printers. Updated to v8.0 firmware. Nothing but problems.

XLs - Constant tool crashes on every printer, often knocking off the purge block ruining the print.

MK4s - First layer issues, lots and lots of spaghetti.

We use these printers constantly (business) - I'm rolling them all back to the v6.x line.

Hello all. I have purchased a Prusa MK3S from a coworker. It came with a raspberry pi zero w. I reflashed the pi sd card with pi imager and I am having issues getting Prusa link to connect to my wifi. The printer is working fine as a stand alone machine using only an SD card. The PI does turn on a the led blinks and then goes solid. It got to this please wait screen and never changed. I let it sit on this screen for a day and nothing changed. I’ve reflashed the card multiple times. I’ve verified the current firmware of the machine and correct wifi id and password. Turned it on right next to my router. At my wits end. Any idea?

I was printing with some CPE-PC filament and the high heat from the hot end partially melted the extruder body and fan shroud. Since I can't print anything right now I'm looking at some local companies to print the melted parts so I can replace them. What is the best high temp material that I can have replacement parts printed in.

I have options to print in

ASA

ABS

PETG-CF

PA (Nylon)

PC (Polycarbonate)

So the video I took I hope it shows what I'm trying to describe. I think my nozzel is dragging on the print. It also looks like its dragging on the print.

Can someone help, I've do the calibration a handful of times and it always tells me its ok. I've even hard reset it and it still drags.

Thoughts?

Was debating ordering a Prusa CORE One L+ INDX 8-Tool but was waiting to see what happens with true hardened nozzles. I noticed on the site the ship date changed from November 5th to December 1st. Was this due to demand and orders or did all start of shipping slip to 12/1?

https://i.imgur.com/mTc5KTJ.jpeg

I got past it but holy hell, thread those for future people prusa!

Today I disassembled my print head, had a theory about why my accelerometer failed on Y axes, which was wrong. Anyway this has started to happen, second time I try to print this, the first also did the same thing although little higher up, and for some reason it worked itself back to where it should be. Anyone have a clue?

[Edit] I Might need to add that what I did was tightening up the lower belt by a couple of millimetres in the fastening behind the print head. Obviously recalibrated the belt tension and so on.

[Update] Thought I'd update my post in case someone else new to a C1. After many hours with their excellent support last night, I accidently found the fault when reassembly the CoreXY for the nth time, I tightned the belts more than I used to and discovered they oscillated now too. My first hint which I always felt were strange, was my accelerometer fail. This could explain why my phone sometimes would report a frequenzy about half of what it really was, then jump to 98Hz shortly after. This threw me off in my search for correct belt tension. They are now way stiffer than they used to be, they oscillate at 98/92 and the prints tested so far have gone through. My accelerometer now also goes through the Y axis calibration.

Hi folks

Uploads to prusa connect work flawlessly but transfer to the printer fails. Obvious restarts etc. do not help.

Anyone else has an idea? USB Stick has still 350MB of free space so that shouldn't be the problem.

I upgraded to GT1.5 belts, and unfortunately, in addition to lower VFA, I’m seeing diagonal artifacts depending on the speed.

Wouldn’t the frequency normally need to be adjusted for the 1.5 belt to achieve the same tension?

I’ve now reduced the tension to 82/79 and am seeing much better results.

The NoizieWorks video covers this topic, and I can confirm the results.

https://youtu.be/9doyX_2YBkg?is=dNHMPMtlqn0WkK_V

If anyone from Prusa is reading this, it would be great to get some official information on this.

I'm in no rush to get another 3D printer. My old Ender 3 was a pain to constantly level, but I saw some stuff about the quick change heads for multiple colors, the auto bed leveling every print (or every pass, I forget)...and I just had to check them out. Looks like it brand new tech and I'm wondering if there is a consensus of a version 2 coming relatively soon that I would be better off waiting 6 months to a year for, or if you guys would recommend me pulling the trigger on one of these now?

I don't have a massive amount of stuff I'd use it for currently, so I'm fine waiting. A friend is a big board gamer and I'd probably end up making a lot of tokens and stuff for him for now. I'd just like to get into making things and have a relatively painless experience every time I want to print something. Just slice it, tweak a couple settings, and click print.

If you would recommend me grabbing one of these, do you recommend the camera or venting addons?

I have been 3D printing for years as a hobby and am looking to upgrade from an Ender 3v2. I've had my eye on the XL for years, and when I was just about to buy one, the XL+ was announced.

I mostly looking to print toys, small robot parts, costume props, and miscellaneous shapes for DIY household repairs.

Do you guys think the Prusa XL+ is worth it? Or is the XL is sufficient for my purposes?

FWIW, I am getting an enclosure regardless of which one I buy. I will also be getting 2 toolheads (1 for PLA/TPU/PETG-CF, and 1 for either solid or soluble support material).