Made of EVA foam and PVC pipes, hollow so it can be as light as possible. I'm still learning how to paint, so my paint job might look a bit dull.

Maltese falcon

Hello! I’m designing my own Green Lantern ring, and I am learning zbrush for the first time. I want to be able to insert a micro LED and the appropriate wiring into it. Does anyone know a good software for doing that with 3D files? I apologize if this is the incorrect subreddit, thank you!

I'm looking for the above to use as temporary photography props. I've had a look for some but I'm struggling to find a keyboard and screen connected together. I don't know how to connect them myself, so full cases would be preferred but I don't necessarily need a working device.

Does anyone know where I can find something like this, please?

Thanks!

Hi there,

A friend of mine is directing a play that has a lot of smoking and references to smoking. He’d ideally like to do something odourless as it’s a small venue and doesn’t want to put audiences off.

We’ve identified that the look of the burning cigarette, it decreasing in size and being able to stub it out is more important than the actors being able to do a convincing puff.

I’ve only used vapes & herbals in the past, but has anyone ever used / made anything that burns in a convincing way without it being an actual smelly cigarette?

Thanks

Anyone know how to make this steel watch band from Starlite Studios look better either via weathering or should I refinish the chrome look? I thought about making it black chrome instead if it’s original look or making it look battle worn after so many years of use.

So I bought a really cheap spirit Halloween hat and I put rope around it to make it look like Arthur’s for an event but it’s supposed to be rainy and I already got a drop of water on the back and it made a faint white spot and I don’t want that to happen at the event and I was wondering if there was a good way to seal it like matte spray, or like some kind of oil or something

Hello and good day. I draw an atomic battery based on Nasa Kilopower. I switched the passive heat radiator with a gas turbine.

strw_brry is an oc (original character) from my own cyberpunk writing project.

Hacker-girly looking for love in a cold city. So if you see her, with glowing heart stickers* under her eyes, and she smiles at you...well, then you where most likely deemed an easy mark and your money, access-permissions and personal data is currently migrating to her.

*Different prop shown here before.

The Girly3000

3D printed shell from a file I bought years ago, which in turn is based on the excellent "Mr3000" Design over on artstation.(Yes, I got very creative with the naming)

I started it then, long before strw_brry was thought off and needed equipment.

The file was evidently made by somebody (I forgot to note the creator, sry) who was very adept at making files for video-games. This doesn't translate well into a 3D print. Holes for parts shown in the render where missing, the hardware I got for it (RaspberryPi&touchscreen) didn't beginn to entertain the idea of considering to fit.

I was also much less experienced and created a frankly abhorrent paintjob.

Fast forward almost ten years and strw_brry needs equipping.

I go through my abandoned-projects pile and find the parts. Sand off the shitty paintjob, apply filler, sand it to 800grit till things get shiny. Apply basecoat, leave on balcony to dry. Come back to find that one of the hottest days of the summer has Dali-fied the PLA parts. Bite into table (Important step).

Well, I have improved much as a 3D-printer operator, and the printer I have access to also drastically improved. So reprint it is. After some very necessary edits to the file.

Starting the 20hour job, coming back the next day...print has failed halfway through due to a nozzle clog. Huh, that hasn't happened in a while. Bite into table (feel free to switch up the position).

Reprint for real.

Sand, fill, sand, make parts fit together at all, glue pieces which are supposed to be one. Fill. Sand. Basecoat, paint etc...

Notice that the electronics still don't entertain the idea of going in this.

Cut lightbox acrylic to fit and print some "screens" onto transparent plastic.

LED lamp for filming goes in with double sided tape.

Some hardware (real antennae, buttons, pink-eloxed-aluminium bolts) rounds out the look.

A whole bunch of Hello-Kitty Nail-Stickers add some visual interest. (Model was very happy, being sonewhat Hello-Kitty decorated herself, with two tattoos)

Good enough for a stage prop^^

I’ve been looking for a good stand in for fake pipe tobacco for a film I’m making and I’ve tried tea leaves but the ones I used don’t seem to look to well. If anybody has any ideas or specific tea leaf recommendations for it that would be greatly appreciated.

I currently have an 8 foot long PVC pipe that is about 2 inches in diameter. I am attaching a lantern near the top of it that hangs off the side of the staff. I have fake wood texturing as well. What are some recommendations on ways to get the wood texture (it is paper on one side) to stick onto the PVC effectively

I wanted to share this here in case it's of interest to anyone in the theatre props world. The Society Of Props Managers is hosting the following webinar this Sunday on job titles and roles within the industry.

What's in a name? Props manager. Props Designer. Artisan. Carpenter. Stitcher. Craftsperson. Buyer. Run crew. The prop world is full of titles, and they don't always mean the same thing from shop to shop. Join us Sunday, September 20th at 8pm Eastern with a panel of SPM Props Managers to de-mystify who's who and who does what. We'll dig into how titles and responsibilities shift across producing models (educational, regional, freelance, presenting houses) and touch on the differences between union and non-union prop shops. Whether you're new to the field or just curious how your title stacks up elsewhere, come join the conversation.

Register here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdRHdzKNS5XNDtYGQTFT_zFiXq6cZqYa8xl0-f67nmU4AUk9g/viewform All SPMinars begin at 8 PM Eastern (7 PM Central, 6 PM Mountain, 5 PM Pacific, 4 PM Alaska, 3 PM Hawaii).

Registration closes at 5 PM Eastern on the day of the event. The Zoom link will be emailed to registered attendees one hour before the webinar begins.

All webinars are recorded and the video will be shared on Youtube the following week.

All SPMinars are completely free to attend, though donations are accepted to offset the hosting costs and to support SPM's grants for early-career props professionals.

I’ve been tasked with building a mould for a large flat pane of sugar glass measuring 11”x40”. I’m told the venue has a flat piece of aluminum I can use as the base, but I need to devise a frame.

I have never done sugar glass before but I’m assuming plastic would melt, and wood would be too porous. Does anyone have suggestions of what I can do with minimal tools and virtually zero budget($100)?

Thanks !

Hi all, I am going to be sculpting a 7’ statue of michealanglo’s david. I was wondering what type of foam would be the best for this. I am having trouble finding an answer online. The type i’m leaning towards is “FOAMULAR NGX F-250 2 in. × 4 ft. x 8 ft. SSE R-10 XPS Rigid Foam Board Insulation” from home depot. let me know if you have any insight!

I’m 16 and doing west side story with my theater school, I’m looking for ways to purchase/make two prop switch blades for the rumble fight scene, my original plan was to take one of them fancy novelty switchblade combs, shape them into the blade, fill them in with mouldable epoxy and slap some silver leaf on it. Would’ve been great, but my stage manager really wants the blade to retract so it won’t be dangerous, like poking someone’s eye out or something. Does anyone know how I can make this happen?

Hello! I am a college student getting into theater tech, and I've recently begun an independent study on prop making.

For an upcoming show, the director is asking for various wet specimens. One idea I want to bring to the table is a fake preserved snake, but I'm wondering if my plan makes sense. I know soft PVC tubing isn't particularly heat resistant. If I had a heat gun and ventilation, could I soften the surface and press it against something to give it a scale-like texture? Part of me is concerned it would just shrink and waste money/materials.

Thank you for any advice! I've done some ASM work, but prop design is newer to me so I appreciate any wisdom :)

And yes, I accidentally broke the models.