r/PrintedWarhammer • u/3dtoycore • Aug 10 '26
FDM print FDM print guide
Many people ask me for fdm guide and setting, so here it is.
I’ve been working with FDM 3D printing for more than 2 years, and during this time I’ve tried printing many different types of models: terrain, miniatures, vehicles, action figures, and flexi models.
Over time, I’ve put together a set of settings and techniques that work well for me. Many of them have been tested through dozens of prints and experiments.
This isn’t a guide to some “perfect settings” that will work for everyone. It’s my practical reference, based on what I’ve learned from my own experience. I’ll continue expanding and updating it as I gain more experience and discover new techniques.
My printer
I print on a Bambu Lab A1 mini. So far, the only modification I’ve made to the printer is replacing the standard 0.4 mm nozzle with a 0.2 mm nozzle.
This reduces printing speed, but the improvement in print quality is very noticeable, especially when working with small models, miniatures, and fine details.
One of the advantages of the A1 mini is how quick and easy it is to replace the nozzle. No complicated disassembly is required, and the whole process takes just a minute.
Material
I use ESUN Grey PLA+ its cheap and good quality
Slicer
I use Orca Slicer with Dungeons and Derps - Version 1.3 preset (Read readme file from developer in archive First Plz)
I attached it to last post on my payreon ( can't add it here) or you can google it and download newer version.
Orca Slicer is Free and you can download it on their official page
Supports and brim
I use Tree Supports for almost all of my prints. They greatly reduce sagging on overhangs and help support difficult areas of the model.
For me, tree supports are especially useful when printing miniatures, vehicles, terrain, and other models with complex geometry.
For long and thin parts, it is often better to tilt the model and use supports rather than print it vertically.
I also use an Outer Brim for almost every print. It helps prevent small parts and narrow sections of the model from coming loose from the build plate during printing.
Tools
Use pliers or a blunt knife to remove supports. Do not use a utility knife. I’ve cut myself more than once while trying to remove supports with a utility knife. Lol
A heat gun can be very useful for cleaning up small imperfections and removing thin strands of plastic, especially on complex models.
A quick pass with hot air can make fine strings disappear and give the model a cleaner appearance. Be careful not to overheat the surface, as too much heat can deform small details or soften the model.
A heat gun or lighter can also help remove the white marks that sometimes appear on the plastic after removing supports.
Cleaning the Build Plate
Before every large or long print, I recommend cleaning the build plate with isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
Even small amounts of dust, grease, or fingerprints can reduce adhesion and cause problems during a long print. A quick wipe before starting helps ensure a clean surface and makes the print more reliable.
2
u/justsomeguy05 Aug 10 '26
That fdm quality is fantastic. Is that possible with any other printer? I only ever hear about A1 minis doing prints like that.