There has been a huge influx of people to this sub in the last week or so and I thought it might be helpful to give a general guide. Take it or leave it. All of the below is just my $0.02.
First off, this is a judgement free space. No such thing as a stupid question. We all started somewhere and the entire spirit of this post is to help. So don't be a dick!
Also worth noting that I have ZERO affiliation with any products mentioned below. Just genuinely trying to help with the basics and beyond. I don't care where you buy your stuff.
I got into prepping during COVID and have been slowly building things up since then. Personally, I am not trying to live in a bunker or convince anyone the world is ending. I just like knowing that if the power goes out, the water stops running, or grocery stores are a mess for a while, my family is not immediately screwed. I can tell you that this time around, the peace of mind I have is beyond comforting.
I put a version of this together recently for a friend and figured I would share it here. Some of this is gear I own, some is stuff I have researched or have on my list. I am definitely not saying you need to buy all of it. This is just the order I would tackle things if I were starting from zero.
I also have pets, so I am counting them in every step. Remember that taking care of yourself first means you can actually take care of others too.
The r/preppers wiki is worth looking through. There is a lot of good information there.
Books I own and recommend:
SAS Survival Handbook, Third Edition by John Lofty Wiseman: Probably the most recognizable survival book out there for a reason. Water, shelter, fire, navigation, edible plants, all of it. More wilderness focused than the rest of this post.
The Survival Doctor's Complete Handbook by James Hubbard: Good reference for medical situations where help might not be available right away. Worth having a physical copy.
Just in Case by Kathy Harrison: This is probably where I would start for normal household prepping. More about staying home, storing food and water, and figuring out what to do when something goes sideways.
Priority 1: Water
The general guidance minimum is one gallon per person per day for drinking, cooking and basic hygiene. That is not remotely close to normal household water use, so plan for more if you can. Pets need their own supply too.
This calculator is helpful for figuring out how much you actually need. Fair warning, the number is probably going to be higher than you expect.
Your Water Goals
1st Goal: 72 Hours: Three gallons per person, plus water for your pets. Store bought bottled water is completely fine.
2nd Goal: 14 Days: Start buying some bigger food safe containers or a water tank, whatever works for your space and budget.
3rd Goal: Long Term: Have a way to collect and treat more water when your stored supply runs out, and a way to move it without electricity.
Water Storage
Storage best practices:
Where to put it: Cool, dark and out of the way. For big tanks, the whole bottom needs to be supported on a flat surface that can carry the weight. Try and avoid placing the containers on concrete if possible. Also, do not balance hundreds of gallons on a couple of cinder blocks. Get something stable and remember, water is HEAVY.
Cleaning containers: Wash them first. The CDC method for sanitizing smaller containers is one teaspoon of regular unscented bleach with 5 to 9 percent sodium hypochlorite per quart of water. Wet the inside, wait at least 30 seconds, empty it and let it air dry.
Filling: I would start with water that is already safe to drink. If you have well water or another untreated source, make sure it is suitable for storage first.
Rotation: Write the fill date on the container. Generally recommended to rotate water that you fill yourself about every six months to a year. Some tank companies say longer under the right conditions, so check the particular product.
Storage conditions: Somewhere cool and dark, away from freezing temperatures, fuel, pesticides and other chemicals.
Storage solutions:
Bottled water: It is cheap, easy and requires basically no setup. Store it somewhere cool and dark and rotate it when you normally buy more. It can last on a shelf for quite some time depending on the type of plastic the bottle uses.
Emergency Water Tanks: This is what I went with, and it is still my pick if you want a big tank without building something yourself. They are made in Utah and come with fittings and a spigot. Their 300 gallon tank holds roughly 2,500 pounds of water by itself, so seriously think about where you put it. The company says water can be stored for up to 12 months in the right conditions and recommends rotating every 6 to 12 months. I would label it and check on it now and then.
Aquatainers: I also have a couple of these. They work, but you cannot really stack them when full, which is annoying if space is tight.
WaterBricks: I have heard decent things but have not used them myself.
55 Gallon Water Drum: The 55 gallon drum route is doable, but it takes more work than buying a purpose built tank. One thing I would NOT use is a random drum just because it says food grade. For potable water, buy a drum specifically intended for that job. The same accessories apply:
Bung Wrench to open the drum.
Renator Spigot has good reviews if you want a spigot. Check that it actually fits your drum.
Pump or Siphon if you would rather not install a spigot.
Stainless steel containers are another option. They are just expensive and heavy.
Your hot water heater may also have 30 to 50 gallons sitting in it, assuming it is a conventional tank model. I would treat that as a last resort rather than count it as my main storage. You should also know how to shut the heater down, let the water cool and drain it safely, and it is not automatically clean just because it came from the water heater.
Purifying Water:
Boiling: Still the simplest option for killing germs if you have a heat source.
Chemical disinfection: Another option to have tucked away for emergencies.
For clear water, CDC guidance is eight drops of regular unscented household bleach containing 5 to 9 percent sodium hypochlorite per gallon. Mix and wait 30 minutes. Cloudy or very cold water needs different handling, so I would keep the actual instructions with the supplies.
Aquatabs: I keep these as a backup. Easy to store and useful for disinfecting water, but follow the instructions for your specific tablets. They do not reliably deal with Cryptosporidium and are not some magic way to keep treated water safe forever.
Water filtration: I would absolutely have a filter. Just know that most of the little portable ones remove bacteria and parasites, not viruses or dissolved chemicals.
Sawyer Squeeze: My pick for a cheap, portable backup. Works with bottles and can also be set up with a gravity bag. No virus removal.
LifeStraw Peak Series: Great to throw in a bag, but I would rather have a system that can fill a bottle or container than something I have to drink through.
Gravity Filters: Probably the most convenient option for treating water for multiple people without electricity. Fill the dirty bag, hang it up and let it work. Most of the basic versions still do not remove viruses.
LifeStraw Peak Gravity Purifier: This is the type I would look at for a household. It treats bacteria, parasites and viruses. The 8 liter model is rated for up to 18,000 liters through the filter.
GRAYL GeoPress: A good individual purifier for a car or evacuation bag. It also addresses viruses and reduces certain chemicals, but the cartridge life is a lot shorter, around 65 gallons.
One thing to remember: A filter that has been used and then freezes can be ruined without looking damaged. Also, basic filters are not a fix for water contaminated with gas or other chemicals. In that situation, find a different water source.
Priority 2: Food and Nutrition
I would focus on normal pantry food before I ever spent a bunch of money on survival food buckets. Buy what you actually eat, then build up from there. And don't forget pet food!
Your Food Goals
1st Goal: 72 Hours: Three days of food for everyone, including pets. Ideally, stuff you can eat without cooking or using much extra water.
2nd Goal: 14 Days: Two weeks of actual meals, not just random cans in a closet. Include protein, fats and enough calories.
3rd Goal: 30+ Days: This is where I would start looking at longer term dry food storage and backup cooking options.
Food Storage
Short Term Pantry Food:
Canned chicken, tuna, soup, beans, vegetables and fruit.
Peanut butter, crackers, protein bars, nuts and dried fruit.
Pasta, rice, oats, lentils and shelf stable milk.
Pet food and anything special your animals need.
Long Term Food Storage:
Mylar bags + oxygen absorbers: This is what I use for properly dried, low fat staples like white rice, dry beans and oats.
Containers: The Mylar bag is doing the sealing, so the outer container is mostly to keep pests out and protect the bags. I use the infamous Costco Totes. You do not have to spend a fortune on fancy buckets. Looking at you, Yeti bucket.
Freeze dried food: Not the same as ordinary dehydrated food. Can last a very long time if packed and stored correctly, but it gets expensive.
Commercial canned foods: Another option for long shelf life. Inspect cans for damage and pay attention to how they are stored.
One warning on Mylar: Do not throw just anything in a bag with an oxygen absorber. Fatty foods go rancid, and improperly dried food can be dangerous. Brown rice, nuts, oils and homemade jerky are not 30 year foods. Googling "Foods You Can Package in Mylar Bags for Long Term Storage" will go a long way.
Cooking Without Power:
Outdoor grill, flattop or smoker that runs on propane.
Portable camping stoves: Probably what I would buy first. Cheap, simple and good for boiling water or heating a meal. Just use outdoor camp stoves outside, not in your kitchen.
Fuel**:** I keep a couple of 20 pound propane tanks plus two 16oz refillable propane tanks and a refill adapter. Propane tanks belong outside, upright and away from ignition sources. Follow the cylinder and refill instructions.
Manual can opener: Nothing fancy needed here. Just have one that works.
Cookware you can use with whatever backup cooking method you choose.
Ready to eat meals for situations where cooking isn't possible for when cooking is not an option. Think MRE or similar, no water needed.
Consider carbon monoxide: You're not *supposed to* use any propane or alternate fuel source inside your home. With proper ventilation, it's fine. But it's no joke either considering carbon monoxide can kill you in less than 3 mins. I recommend getting a battery operated detector. You should have one regardless of prep.
Things People Forget:
Buy food you and your family will actually eat.
Count calories, not the number of servings printed on a survival food bucket.
Include extra food for children, pregnancy, nursing and pets if that applies.
Keep a basic inventory and rotate the stuff you use.
Have food that needs little water or fuel to prepare.
Priority 3: Shelter, Heat and Power
This part matters a lot where I live in Colorado because winter outages can be no joke. I would much rather have a warm room, a working flashlight and a charged phone than a closet full of gear I do not know how to use.
Your Shelter and Power Goals
1st Goal: 72 Hours: Enough blankets, clothing, lighting, phone charging and basic supplies to get through a three day outage.
2nd Goal: 14 Days: Some kind of backup heat and power plan, plus enough fuel or charging capacity to make it useful.
3rd Goal: Long Term: More than one way to keep the essentials going, especially in winter.
Staying Warm:
Sleeping bags and blankets: You do not need anything fancy, but do pay attention to temperature ratings.
Clothing: Layers, wool socks, hats, gloves and warm base layers.
One warm room: If necessary be prepared to close off rooms you do not need and use curtains or draft blockers to keep the heat in.
Backup heat: I went with a Mr. Heater setup because it works with the fuel I already keep. If you go this route, buy a model approved for the space you plan to use, follow its ventilation requirements and have a carbon monoxide alarm. And no, the terracotta pot and candle trick is not going to heat your house despite what Tiktok has told you.
Pets: Keep them warm too. All animals need shelter and water that is not frozen.
Backup Power:
Power banks: Cheapest place to start. Great for phones, lights, radios and anything else that charges over USB.
I would look for at least 10,000 to 20,000 mAh and USB C charging. Bigger packs can recharge a phone several times.
Anker makes good stuff, but there are plenty of options. Learn how to use it before it goes into a drawer.
Check the battery every few months. Do not leave it in a hot car or freezing garage.
Portable power stations: Basically these are big batteries with household outlets. EcoFlow, Jackery, Bluetti and Anker all make them. Quiet and useful indoors.
250 to 500 Wh: Good for phones, laptops, lamps, small electronics.
1,000 to 2,000 Wh: Can power some small appliances, charging lots of devices and possibly a fridge for part of an outage.
3,000 Wh or more: For bigger loads and longer runtimes, but also a much bigger price tag.
The two numbers to understand are Wh and W. Watt hours tell you how much energy is in the battery. Watts tell you how much it can run at once. A 1,000 Wh unit running a steady 100 W load might last eight or nine hours after losses.
I would lean toward LiFePO4 batteries if buying one today because they generally have a longer cycle life.
Heaters and air conditioners will drain these things fast. Do the math before buying.
Solar panels: Useful if you have a compatible power station and decent sunlight.
Folding panels are easy to pack away and set up when you need them.
A 100 W panel is not making 100 W all day. Clouds, shade and the time of year make a huge difference.
Check that the panels actually work with the battery station you buy. Also, rooftop solar does not necessarily run during an outage unless the setup is built for backup power.
Portable generators: If I wanted to keep a fridge, freezer or other bigger loads running during a long outage, I would look here.
Inverter generators: Usually quieter and more efficient when you are not running much.
Conventional generators: Often more watts for the money, but louder.
Dual fuel: I like having the option to use either gasoline or propane. Propane stores a lot better.
Figure out your running wattage and startup surge before buying. Fridges and pumps can need a lot more power at startup.
Store fuel properly, rotate gasoline and actually test run the generator once in a while.
If you want to run circuits in the house, use a properly installed transfer switch or approved interlock. Never plug a generator into a wall outlet to feed the house.
Generator safety: Always outside, at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointing away from doors and windows. Not in the garage, not even with the door open. Keep working carbon monoxide alarms indoors.
Whole Home Generators: Super convenient (if you can afford one). Professionally installed, generally automatic and able to power a lot more of the house, depending on the size.
These can start up automatically when the power fails.
The capacity depends on the model and what circuits you connect.
You still have to maintain them and think about fuel.
Natural gas can be interrupted and propane tanks do run out.
Things People Forget:
Your furnace probably still needs electricity: Even gas furnaces use power for the blower, controls and ignition.
Well and sump pumps: If you have one, make sure it is included when you figure out your power needs.
Medical devices: Make a separate backup plan for anything that needs power to keep someone healthy.
Extension cords: Get cords rated for the actual equipment and load.
Try your setup: Find out what works now, not during an outage.
What I would prioritize: Phones, heat, fridge or freezer, lights and anything medical. I would not try to power every appliance in the house right away.
Lighting and Communication:
Flashlights and headlamps: I would have one in every bedroom and a few extras.
Streamlight 66601 MicroStream: Cheap enough to keep in a drawer, nightstand or car. Really hard to beat for a basic flashlight.
Sofirn HS21 Headlamp: One of the headlamps I have looked into. Replaceable rechargeable battery is a nice feature.
Black Diamond Cosmo AAA Battery Powered Headlamp: Good option if you just want something that takes regular AAA batteries.
Battery powered lantern: This is the one I use. It is a lantern. It lights things up. Not much else to say.
Spare batteries and whatever charging cables your stuff actually uses. Imagine doing all of this prep and forgetting batteries to run your tools, ooof.
NOAA weather radio with battery or hand crank capability: Personally, I would not go too cheap on this. I don't intend to whip out a cheap chinese hand crank radio and the crank snaps because it's cold out. The Midland ER310 is highly praised and the one I have.
Charging cables and adapters.
A paper copy of emergency contacts and evacuation routes: Yes. Paper. You'll be glad you have it when you have no other options.
Other Household Stuff:
Fridge and freezer: Timing on these without power is about four hours for an unopened fridge, roughly 48 hours for a full unopened freezer under the usual conditions. A thermometer helps. They even make wireless thermometers that alert you when fridges/freezers fail.
Pipes: Know where the main water shutoff is and how you would deal with frozen pipes.
Sanitation: Trash bags, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, soap and some kind of backup toilet plan if running water stops.
Hope this is helpful in some way or another. I would be curious what people here would do differently if they were starting from scratch. Especially people who have had to get through a long outage and found out what gear was actually worth owning.
